AndersGreen wrote:
MattSmith wrote:
Just add a "proper" cage, seats, and belts, and other ...
Hmm, also, of the top of my head...
-intercom
-odo
-skid plate
-first aid kit
-triangles
-helmet/firesuit
-depending on class, hood pins
Don't forget seam welding, lights, tow hooks, tow rope, a "spill kit", a new spare tire mount (most stock systems are too small [and slow] for rally use), jack/wrench setup, gas tank protection or fuel cell, window nets (in the near future), HANS device (ditto), and about 1000 miscellanous bits of hardware obtained, at $2 apiece, via 500 separate trips to Home Depot.
If you haven't heard it 100 times already, here it is again: It's a lot cheaper and faster to buy an already built, already logbooked, already sorted rally car, perhaps with some issue like a blown tranny (assuming Subaru), than it is to turn a street car into a rally car. Of course, some people, even knowing this, will choose to build the car themselves (like Anders, Matt Smith, and Matthew Johnson) because they are just fundamentally too happy and need a dose of misery in their lives to provide the needed balance.
Even if the used rally car you buy isn't your dream car, it's good to start out in something heavy and slow and reliable, because you're likely to bounce it off a few big rocks and berms on your way to learning how to drive it. Then, once you're driving entire stages without lifting, you can move up to a faster, nicer car. And it'll feel great!

_________________
Carl Fisher
Be Cool to the Pizza Dude:
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