THSCC Forums

So I daily drive my 240. I currently have Koni Yellows with stock springs. The rears are not adjustable unless I remove the shock. Normally I drive around with the fronts on 1/8 stiff and when I get to the autocross I set them at 7/8 stiff. To me there is not a huge difference in feel with the settings, but noticeable. My question is, is there a setting that would be best for the longevity of the these shocks during daily driving? I've heard it is not a good idea to be dialed into full soft or full stiff, so that is why I back off a quarter turn. If it does not really matter, I'd prefer to just leave them at 7/8 stiff.

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2003 Subaru WRX Sportwagon = daily driver/boost and booster seats
2000 BMW 540iT = wife's kid hauler
2012 Toyota Highlander = the boring reliable vehicle

The whole "no full soft or full stiff" is urban legend. Lee Grimes of Koni NA has said it doesn't hurt the shock at all to be full soft/stiff and when you see the valving dyno curves, it shows both extremes.

As for longevity, the shocks are as good as the seals. If you see leaking, usually evident from a dirty drip mark on the shock body, then the shock needs to either be replaced or rebuilt. - AB

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'14 Toyota Sequoia Platinum 4WD
Super Westerfield Bros - '93 Integra - LeChump Du Jour
STX 93 - Scion FR-S

While it might not hurt the damper itself, it can bork up the adjuster to leave it at the full adjustment. That's what the tech told me when I had one replaced under warranty on the Contour ...

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Has no responsibility whatsoever.

I had yellows on my prelude for 2-3 years with ~30k miles on it. The seemed ok after that period. I ran them near the middle for the street. I would think if you DD them you should plan for a refresh-rebuild every few years if you want optimal performance though.

While I agree it's possible, I've run Konis on all of my autocross cars for the last 7 years (although the C6 is on Pfadt shocks) and I've gone full stiff and full soft on OTS singles/revalved singles/custom double adjustables and have never, ever, had an adjuster break or lock.

I could just be lucky

I do agree with Michael that a fresh rebuild every few years is good for optimal use. The problem with that is that OTS singles probably are just as expensive as a rebuild, so unless you have custom valving (or desire that for springs stiffer than 450# rates that most of their OTS singles can handle), buying new ones and unloading the old ones at a significant discount is the way to go. - AB

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'14 Toyota Sequoia Platinum 4WD
Super Westerfield Bros - '93 Integra - LeChump Du Jour
STX 93 - Scion FR-S

There is no probably about it, for the 240, its the same exact cost new vs rebuild per Lee Grimes at Koni.

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02 Focus SVT
STF 9

Yeah, that is about what I remember as far as rebuild prices. It might be of interest to be able to adjust the rears on the car in the future, but since the rest of the suspension is stock I don't think I can get it too still the rears are at ~3/4 still.

I'll try running the fronts at full stiff at the next event.

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2003 Subaru WRX Sportwagon = daily driver/boost and booster seats
2000 BMW 540iT = wife's kid hauler
2012 Toyota Highlander = the boring reliable vehicle

I ran mine for 5+ years on my DD and I never had problems with the adjuster, but there were pretty much worn out and need of replacement (rebuild) when I finally pulled them off the car and went back to stock setup.

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Richard Casto
1972 Porsche 914
2013 Honda Fit Sport
2015 Honda Fit EX
http://motorsport.zyyz.com
Money can't buy happiness, but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than a Kia.

For most cars, yes, it's close if not the same. For other cars, a rebuild is much cheaper. For the C5 & C6 Corvettes, OTS Singles are around $1k. - AB

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'14 Toyota Sequoia Platinum 4WD
Super Westerfield Bros - '93 Integra - LeChump Du Jour
STX 93 - Scion FR-S

Hmm, maybe they're not doing this anymore, but I bought mine (SA yellows) for the Neon from GH Sharp (SF Motorsports) back in '97 or so, and they came with lifetime replacement guarantee. That was probably 250k ago- I'm sure I've replaced them all at least 4 times, all for the cost of return shipping for the junkers. Last time I did that was maybe 18 months ago?

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Carl Fisher

Be Cool to the Pizza Dude:
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/stor ... Id=4651531

They do have a lifetime warranty, to the orginal seller. If your like me and bought them from 2nd hand that warranty does not apply.

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David Teague
2015 Lexus IS 250c
1994 Honda Del Sol HS 39
2009 Dodge Journey R/T
http://teaguefamily.us

I actually replaced my front via this method. If I remember correctly if you didn't want to be without (such as for DD), they would see you replacements at pretty much what I think is their dealer price. Then you swap out new for old. Mail them back the old and if they agree there is a warentee issue, they will refund you what you paid for the new ones.

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Richard Casto
1972 Porsche 914
2013 Honda Fit Sport
2015 Honda Fit EX
http://motorsport.zyyz.com
Money can't buy happiness, but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than a Kia.

I hung out with Lee at the Koni trailer at Nationals last year. I learned a lot. Among other things, I learned that running them at full soft, or full stiff, is fine. Lee told me, "if we didn't want people to set them to those settings, we'd change the range of adjustment."

I'm familiar with the perception that running them full stiff is bad for them - I've heard of it before. Lee said it's not true.

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Karl S.
2014 Baby, 2014 House, 2013 Ford Focus ST, 2013 BMW 328i, 1994 Mercedes E320
(Insert passive aggressive signature line here)