Just to clear some things up...
There is nothing wrong with the 1.6L's other than they are a little down on power compared to the 1.8L's. But they did feature a shorter final drive (4.3 -vs- 4.1) which helped make up for the difference. They also had a smaller ring gear which could be an issue if you’re looking for big power. While the 1.8L rear ends are usually good until about 300rwhp with “normal” use, the 1.6L rears have been known to grenade with power approaching 200rwhp-- sometimes earlier.
All 90 models and early 91 models had a “short nose” crank which, if improperly maintained (namely during a timing belt replacement) could cause major motor issues. With proper maintenance, lots of these motors have seen over 200k trouble free miles without issue. Late 91 models through 93 featured a “big nose” crank which was pretty much impervious to a botched timing belt job. There was actually an intermediate crank on the late 91 models but it was essentially equivalent to the later cranks. The 92 and 93 models also featured a little more bracing than the earlier cars but nothing that can’t easily be duplicated by aftermarket pieces.
The 1.6L cars had a viscous LSD available which gives mixed results. It was generally effective but did tend to wear out over time with hard use. Most of them at this point are essentially open unless they were babied.
The 1.8L cars had 2 types of torsen LSD’s available called, strangely enough, Type I and Type II. I believe the switch over was in 96. The differences were subtle and had to do with the amount of locking under braking I think. There is a write up on Miata.net describing them in detail for anybody interested. If you’re planning on getting a 1.8L Miata and using it for anything other than street driving, these are obviously highly recommended.
Starting in 94, they went to the 1.8L motor, taller final drive, bigger brakes, more bracing and dual air bags. As mentioned above, the cars also got a hair heavier. All 94 models and early 95 models are OBDI which if you’re looking to modify one, can be a minor issue. Many consider the 94 and early 95 models to be the ideal starting platform for a turbo/supercharged car. All late 95 models through 97 were OBDII equipped so if you’re looking to dodge the upcoming emissions standards, it might be a consideration. The 96 and 97 cars also got a slight bump in hp but with a bit more added weight, it is a wash with the earlier 1.8L cars.
In the U.S., there were no 98 Miatas. They did exist in other countries, however. Why? No idea…
Besides the obvious body changes, the 99 and above cars got a few other changes. They got a slight bump in hp and went back to the 4.3 final drive for the 5-speed cars. The 6-speed cars have a 3.9 final drive but the intermediate gears are shorter so it doesn’t really buy you anything on the highway. In other words, 5th gear and 6th gear with their respective trannys and final drives wind up being a wash. You just wind up shifting more with the 6-speed to get there. For auto-x, the short 2nd gear in the 6-speed can sometimes help and sometimes hurt-- it totally depends on the course. Most people that add power to the late cars prefer the 5-speed but some swear by the 6-speed with the “European” 3.6 final drive. It all comes down to personal preference.
Some 99 (and possibly very early 00) engines had an issue with improper thrust bearings being installed from the factory. This would cause the motor to eventually self-destruct but Mazda did replace them under warranty even if it had expired. The symptoms were a wobbly crank pulley and should be easily identified at this point.
Finally, the 99 and 00 motors featured essentially 2 intake tracts which were switched over by the ECU at a designated rpm. All 01 and above cars featured VVT which is essentially Mazda’s version of Vtec but not nearly as effective. The 01 motors were rated higher than the 99 and 00 motors but there was a big stink when owners discovered that they were putting down the same dyno numbers as the 99 and 00 motors. This is where Mazda developed it’s current “oops” policy currently going on with the RX8. Oops indeed! I’m pretty sure that the 01+ motors require premium gas if that is a factor while 99 and 00 motors only need 87 octane. 99 and 00 owners please correct me if I’m wrong on this point.
Also, the 99+ cars got a little change in front end geometry which lowered the roll center and gave a decent improvement in handling. They also featured more rear suspension travel which helps if you plan on lowering the car.
Anyway, as usual, I’ve rattled on enough. If you’re just looking for a car as a daily driver/weekend getaway car, I would probably go with a 99 or 00 model. They are definitely a little bit more refined than the previous generation.
I would definitely take an extended ride in the 94 R package if you’re going for a stock car. The R package cars (as well as 93LE’s) featured very stiffly valved Bilstien shocks that might be a little more than you want. Maybe you can hit Mike Whitney up for a ride assuming he hasn’t replaced his shocks yet. The upside is that those shocks seem to last forever unlike the regular Miata shocks.
If you’re looking for an all out performance car, I would go with either a 94/early 95 model or a dirt cheap but clean 1.6L car with the intention of replacing the motor with a 1.8L eventually. An early car plus with a 1.8L and 4.3 final drive makes a decently quick and cheap car for a midlife crisis.
Bottom line: the cars are essentially bulletproof if you treat them fairly without many “gotachs” to look out for.
Disclaimer: all of this is off the top of my head so if I got anything wrong, sorry!
I’ll shut up now…
Jim
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had better power but more weight. Accelleration wasn't that much different but the car "felt" stronger. The Gen 2 was a different car altogether, more power (140 at the crank) and a little better looks IMO. But again it weighed more. The engines ARE bullet proof. Jim has proved that. Franks point about the nose crank would be my reason to stay away from the 1.6's, though my brother hasn't had any problems with his.
