Eibach Pro-Kit -- any good?

Jeb Brookshire · **Posted:** Tue Jun 24, 2008 7:56 pm

I did the springs on my Mazda3 without a spring compressor! :shock:

I have the GC conversion going in this weekend and my helpy-helper says that he has it down to a science on the Miata. I have done bolt-ons and other stuff on a variety of vehicles. I doubt the Miata would be too difficult. At the same time someone familiar with the process and a second set of hands is always nice. Depending on scheduling I may be available to lend a hand as well.

Chuck Frank · **Posted:** Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:25 am

I have a very good (ask Donnie and Eric) hydraulic spring compressor I built specifically for Miata springs.
Changed the shocks on my 99 several times in the backyard in a couple hours, before my garage was built. Now with the garage and air tools it would be a piece of cake.

Donnie Barnes · **Posted:** Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:41 am

Chuck's custom spring compressor is the bomb. It's Miata specific, but could be adapted to a good many other coilover shocks fairly easily. Could be converted to handle struts, I'd guess, too.

It's really just a small hydraulic cylinder and a hand pump. Build some bracketry to hold a shock in place and "squish" it with the cylinder. Take nut loose. Remove pressure on cylinder with release valve and you have it apart.

His compressor never touches the spring...just the bottom of the shock and the top hat. Beats the crap out of all those contraptions that grab just the spring, though we still use a nice one of those around our shop simply because it's the only thing truly universal. But if you were constantly fiddling with the same shock package, building one like this would be worth it and is definitely the SAFEST way to go. You haven't lived until you've watched a spring come flying out of one of the universal ones...

--Donnie

AlexMaier · **Posted:** Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:49 am

Thanks everyone for your advice.

Last week I ordered the 375/250 Ground Controls and hope they will arrive this week. Will be installing them on the weekend.

PM sent to Chuck. :)

Will keep you posted on how the upgrade goes.

AlexMaier · **Posted:** Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:56 am

Brad Mackey wrote:

Wes Eargle wrote:

AlexMaier wrote:

A friend of mine has offered to help with the springs, but I am not sure if he'll draw the line at GCs which he said were a PITA to install.

If Ground Controls were tough to install for him, I would second-guess his mechanical abilities. Will work for beer, yadda yadda.

This is Suspension 101. Agree with Wes. Your friend's prob'ly not a wrencher :) .

Wanted to stand up for my friend here. My Konis have non-adjustable lower spring perches which are spot-welded onto the shock sleeve. They'd need to be drilled out. Not too much of a pain, but considerably more effort than just swapping out the springs without removing the lower perches.

Since he originally volunteered to help me with the easier job, I did not want to impose and assume he'll automatically be willing (not unable) to do the extra work. That is all I meant with this.

Jeb Brookshire · **Posted:** Mon Jun 30, 2008 7:51 pm

AlexMaier wrote:

Thanks everyone for your advice.

Last week I ordered the 375/250 Ground Controls and hope they will arrive this week. Will be installing them on the weekend.

PM sent to Chuck.

Will keep you posted on how the upgrade goes.

Should be a lot of fun, as it was for me and Todd. If you need the services of Brute Force Garage, let me know!

The new stance (eyeballed), before it goes to Mark Cooper....

Wes Eargle · **Joined:** Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:47 am **Posts:** 3683

What ride height did you go with (measured at the center of the wheelwell to the ground)? Did you go with NB rear top hats?

Jeb Brookshire · **Posted:** Mon Jun 30, 2008 8:50 pm

I did not use NB tophats. I measured from the center of the fender to the middle of the wheel. I was getting about 12 inches. I probably need to raise it up just a little, but I figure when I have Mark align and corner balance it, it will be better dialed in and also at a more appropriate height, even though I love the way it looks now.

Wes Eargle · **Joined:** Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:47 am **Posts:** 3683

That's really low. I'm concerned that you're going to be spending a lot of time on the bumpstops, especially in the rear. You're also going to get a lot of bump steer due to the angle of the tie rods in the front. Anything less than 12.5-13" from wheel center to the fender is going to cause problems.

Just my couple of copper coins.

Jeb Brookshire · **Posted:** Mon Jun 30, 2008 9:29 pm

Wes Eargle wrote:

That's really low. I'm concerned that you're going to be spending a lot of time on the bumpstops, especially in the rear. You're also going to get a lot of bump steer due to the angle of the tie rods in the front. Anything less than 12.5-13" from wheel center to the fender is going to cause problems.

Just my couple of copper coins.

Good looking out playa! They are easy enough to raise up that I can "re-eyeball" the adjustment to a more acceptable level.

Wes Eargle · **Joined:** Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:47 am **Posts:** 3683

Jeb Brookshire wrote:

Wes Eargle wrote:

That's really low. I'm concerned that you're going to be spending a lot of time on the bumpstops, especially in the rear. You're also going to get a lot of bump steer due to the angle of the tie rods in the front. Anything less than 12.5-13" from wheel center to the fender is going to cause problems.

Just my couple of copper coins.

Good looking out playa! They are easy enough to raise up that I can "re-eyeball" the adjustment to a more acceptable level.

Since I'm "looking out", if you have the "Icehawk alignment" in your hands, just go ahead and throw it away. It really isn't aggressive enough. Mark has my settings in the computer, feel free to grab them.

Also, spend some time looking at Randy Stocker's Miata page as well as Shaikh Ahmed's Fat Cat Motorsports site for tips and suspension spreadsheets.

Ryan Holton · **Posted:** Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:32 pm

Jeb Brookshire wrote:

Wes Eargle wrote:

That's really low. I'm concerned that you're going to be spending a lot of time on the bumpstops, especially in the rear. You're also going to get a lot of bump steer due to the angle of the tie rods in the front. Anything less than 12.5-13" from wheel center to the fender is going to cause problems.

Just my couple of copper coins.

Good looking out playa! They are easy enough to raise up that I can "re-eyeball" the adjustment to a more acceptable level.

If you ain't layin' frame, you ain't trying.

Seriously, Wes is right, 12" is TOOOOOO low.

Jeb Brookshire · **Posted:** Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:35 pm

Wes Eargle wrote:

Jeb Brookshire wrote:

Wes Eargle wrote:

That's really low. I'm concerned that you're going to be spending a lot of time on the bumpstops, especially in the rear. You're also going to get a lot of bump steer due to the angle of the tie rods in the front. Anything less than 12.5-13" from wheel center to the fender is going to cause problems.

Just my couple of copper coins.

Good looking out playa! They are easy enough to raise up that I can "re-eyeball" the adjustment to a more acceptable level.

Since I'm "looking out", if you have the "Icehawk alignment" in your hands, just go ahead and throw it away. It really isn't aggressive enough. Mark has my settings in the computer, feel free to grab them.

Also, spend some time looking at Randy Stocker's Miata page as well as Shaikh Ahmed's Fat Cat Motorsports site for tips and suspension spreadsheets.

Icehawk?

Wes Eargle · **Joined:** Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:47 am **Posts:** 3683

Jeb Brookshire wrote:

Icehawk?

ORLY?

Jeb Brookshire · **Posted:** Tue Jul 01, 2008 6:29 am

Wes Eargle wrote:

Jeb Brookshire wrote:

Icehawk?

ORLY?

Ok I found it and looking at the toe setting, that would destroy tires.

THSCC Forums

Eibach Pro-Kit -- any good?

Who is online