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 Post subject: E36 M3 Strut Removal
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 9:41 am 
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I miss my Type-R
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Last night I started the process to remove the struts from the M3. I stopped after spending an hour trying to get the nut off the stabilizer bar link off. This is the bar that goes from the sway bar to the strut, just under the spring. The bolt is turning with the nut.

My plan is to continually soak it with PB Blaster while working on the other three corners of the car. Any other ideas?

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Phil... Now I miss the ITR and the M3!!!
1990 Honda Civic SI


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 10:14 am 
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The bolt attached to the link takes a 13 or 14 mm wrench. You have to hold it with the wrench while you turn the nut.

Edit: I know that sounds obvious, but from your post I wasn't sure you figured that out. :D

I use an impact wrench to get them loose.

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Last edited by MarcusMcRae on Fri Jan 18, 2008 10:21 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: E36 M3 Strut Removal
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 10:21 am 
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Like Marcus said but w/ some clarification:

PhilFausz wrote:
I stopped after spending an hour trying to get the nut off the stabilizer bar link off. This is the bar that goes from the sway bar to the strut, just under the spring. The bolt is turning with the nut.


An hour! Jeez, after 10 minutes start calling people! :) There are "flats" on the back side of that part that is turning. I am pretty sure it's actually a 15mm. You may find that a regular sized open wrench is too wide to hold the flats. I have special flat wrenches left over from my bike mechanic days that I use to hold them.

I also wouldn't recommend using an impact on those without holding the shaft on the flats. I think the impact will whirl the balljoint around a lot faster than it was really designed to turn. Probably won;t hurt though.

PhilFausz wrote:
My plan is to continually soak it with PB Blaster while working on the other three corners of the car. Any other ideas?


It will never work. The nuts are specially deformed to be lock nuts. It's not rust holding it together, it's tight like that on purpose. The threads will not free up until the nut's almost off. Gotta hold the flats the whole way.

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V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1


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 Post subject: Re: E36 M3 Strut Removal
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 10:26 am 
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MikeWhitney wrote:
Like Marcus said but w/ some clarification:

PhilFausz wrote:
I stopped after spending an hour trying to get the nut off the stabilizer bar link off. This is the bar that goes from the sway bar to the strut, just under the spring. The bolt is turning with the nut.


An hour! Jeez, after 10 minutes start calling people! :) There are "flats" on the back side of that part that is turning. I am pretty sure it's actually a 15mm. You may find that a regular sized open wrench is too wide to hold the flats. I have special flat wrenches left over from my bike mechanic days that I use to hold them.

I also wouldn't recommend using an impact on those without holding the shaft on the flats. I think the impact will whirl the balljoint around a lot faster than it was really designed to turn. Probably won;t hurt though.

PhilFausz wrote:
My plan is to continually soak it with PB Blaster while working on the other three corners of the car. Any other ideas?


It will never work. The nuts are specially deformed to be lock nuts. It's not rust holding it together, it's tight like that on purpose. The threads will not free up until the nut's almost off. Gotta hold the flats the whole way.


That explains why those bastards are so difficult to get off. I thought it was the rust.

I hold the bolt while using the impact and my crapsman wrench fits between the bar and the link.

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Silver Honda
Green Ford
Blue/White Suzuki
Red Triumph
Grey BMW

"Never let life be shaped by fear of its end"

No, you're a towel!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 10:30 am 
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Next time I won't START this at 2300 (when I normally go to bed at 2200) and stop around 0200!!! Thanks, I did a quick feel around the back and didn't "feel" a nut there. I'll take another look after getting some sleep.

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Phil... Now I miss the ITR and the M3!!!
1990 Honda Civic SI


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 10:40 am 
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PhilFausz wrote:
Thanks, I did a quick feel around the back and didn't "feel" a nut there.


Resisting. Resisting. Resisting.

Man, that was tough! :D

Jim


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2008 11:11 am 
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PhilFausz wrote:
Next time I won't START this at 2300 (when I normally go to bed at 2200) and stop around 0200!!! Thanks, I did a quick feel around the back and didn't "feel" a nut there. I'll take another look after getting some sleep.


(Here you go Feinberg.....)

Phil, You're feeling in the wrong place....... :wink: :wink: :wink: :wink:


Seriously, you are. There is no "nut" per se (besides the one you're trying to remove)- it's just that the shaft (settle down Beavis) of the ball joint stud has 2 flats on it that are made to accept a wrench so it won't spin with the nut. You'll have to look on the shaft, inboard of the sway bar end link- maybe even have to roll the rubber boot back a bit to see it.


Bret


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