Help! ITR is running hot after new T-belt & water pump

Matt McGrain · **Posted:** Fri Sep 14, 2007 3:13 pm

So I just finished my timing belt last evening along with the water pump. I replaced the coolant a few minutes ago, got on the road and the temperature starts creeping up.

I'm at work now and just drove here with the heat on full blast to keep the temperature gauge under the 1/2 way mark. If I turn it off, it would start creeping up fairly quick.

Basically, I refilled the radiator & reservoir replacing the coolant the was depleted/spilled, ran the car with the cap off in my driveway until the engine got to normal temperature. Capped it and headed off.

The coolant level in the reservoir hasn't dropped a bit. Perhaps the thermostat is ceased?

Is there anything I'm missing?

thanks,
Matt

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Fri Sep 14, 2007 3:20 pm

Did you burp the cooling system? Sometimes it can take quite a long time. Took me almost an hour after I changed the t-belt and water pump on my Miata. Also when Ryna had the CRX air in the system was a huge problem.

JamesFeinberg · **Posted:** Fri Sep 14, 2007 3:27 pm

If you have some ramps, try driving the front wheels onto them and let the car run for a while with the system open. I've always had success with the CRX (and Miata for that matter) doing that after a coolant flush.

Jim

Matt McGrain · **Posted:** Fri Sep 14, 2007 3:28 pm

Vincent Keene wrote:

Did you burp the cooling system? Sometimes it can take quite a long time. Took me almost an hour after I changed the t-belt and water pump on my Miata. Also when Ryna had the CRX air in the system was a huge problem.

I ran it from cold to operating temp with the cap off. The manual says to let the thermostat open (you'll know when the upper hose is warm) but I waited five minutes after it reached the normal temperature and I don't think it opened.

When it stops raining I'll try it again.

Ryan Holton · **Posted:** Fri Sep 14, 2007 3:29 pm

AIR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do a search on here and there is at least 1 if not 2 threads about this

Like Jim said, jack the front of the car up as high as you can, and let the car run without the radiator cap on for like 30 minutes (yes that long).

Patrice Bousquet · **Posted:** Fri Sep 14, 2007 3:36 pm

Good tips here, i will be doing the timing belt on the Miata tomorrow, thanks.

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Fri Sep 14, 2007 3:39 pm

I agree with the above. does need to be burped. I have also had luck with sqeezing the water hoses as well to try to help move pockets of air along.

Oddly enough I am replacing the timing belt and water pump on the Odyssey today. Of course the rain has stopped work at the moment, but I am just glad it is raining.

Matt McGrain · **Posted:** Fri Sep 14, 2007 5:10 pm

Done... Twenty five minutes of idling later.

thanks...

PhilFausz · **Posted:** Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:04 am

Honda's also have a valve you can open. Have the bleeder valve open when you start filling the car. When you get enough in the radiator, start the car and add as needed. By the time the fan comes on, adding more should start to pour out the bleeder valve. Close it, then top off the radiator. Weird.

jeremy gast · **Posted:** Mon Sep 17, 2007 8:32 am

soemtimes even the valves wont get all the air out. On the old b16a in my white del sol, i used the jack up the front method.

Patrice Bousquet · **Posted:** Mon Sep 17, 2007 9:58 am

Did the timing belt on the Miata this weekend. It went fairly smooth. The old timing belt was really loose, it look in decent shape but loose. The intake cam was able to move around a little. When I started it yesterday the valve train was very noisy, looking like some lifters where shot. Rev it up a little, but it remain noisy. Took it out for a test drive, rev it up to redline in 1st and 2nd a few times, after that it was quiet like usual. I guess that when I did the belt and check the timing a few times, turning the motor manually to make sure the timing was Ok, the lifter got empty and it took him a long time to fill up again. After my test drive I put it back on the ramp and remove the radiator cap let it run for a while squeeze the radiator hose a few times, top it off again. This morning coming to work the car seem to run better and the temp. where like usual.

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Mon Sep 17, 2007 10:22 am

Did the timing belt and water pump on the Odyssey this weekend. It was my second timing belt (first was the Civic). Interesting trick is to turn crank until you have #1 at TDC, then mark the belt and pulleys in three places (for the V6 SOHC). Once at the crank, and once at each cam pulley.

Then once you have the old belt off, transfer the marks to the new belt. count the teeth between your marks on the old and new belt to double check, and then when you install the belt. It makes it easy to make sure you are not a tooth off anywhere. So even if one or both of your cam pulleys move as you put the belt on you can make sure you are at the right place. I think that until you get the proper tension on the belt that you may think it is right, but once the tension is on the belt, you will see that one or both cam pulleys may move and then you are off by a tooth or two. This way, you can do it even with the cams turned slightly and then once the tension is back on, it should all align up. Double check the marks, turn the engine over a few times by hand, double check again and all should be good!

Only problem I had was that I discovered that one of the engine mounts had previously broken (cracked rubber) and I had not noticed it, but the local Honda dealership had one in stock.

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Help! ITR is running hot after new T-belt & water pump

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