THSCC Forums

Anybody have some advice for me on a clutch job for my beater truck? Its a 1997 4 cylinder 2WD, the clutch started slipping (and smelling) badly on the way back from the beach this weekend. Its got 156k miles, so I suppose its time. Since this is the spare car, I was hoping to do the labor myself, just to save a little $. I'm reasonably mechanically inclined, I've taken on a Honda timing belt job before, so I figure I can handle the Ford.

I'm trying to figure out what the best service manual to get is, I would like to have it in general anyways, and it would make things significantly easier I know. Any advice/tips are welcome. I'm not looking forward to it, but luckily I've got a place to keep the truck while I'm working on it, so its not a big deal if it takes me a while.

_________________
2012 MX-5 Sport SUV

Replacing a clutch is not too tough. From my experience here are some tips:

1) Get a manual. A Haynes manual will probably give you all the basic pointers you will need.

2) Buy a HF transmission jack.

3) Get the truck as high on jack stands as you safely can. The only time I have been envious of Whitney is when replacing the Camaro's transmission/clutches and I needed a lift

4) Before you start, locate all the bellhousing bolts and make sure you can easily access them. Likewise, if the starter has to be removed locate those bolts. Purchase any extensions for your breaker bar, torque wrench and socket beforehand.

5) PB Blast all bolts the night before. This is just a safety thing. You do not want any of those bolts snapping. That being the case, put the air gun down and step away from it. Shoot, have your wife or best friend lock in a gun safe.

6) Support the motor before removing the transmission. Support the transmission on the HF jack. Strap that bad boy down. Slide it straight out of the away. Do not lower the stand or loosen the straps. This way it should slide right back on.

7) Take care as not damage any cables or plugs (speedo, reverse, etc). Take extra special care.

Have the flywheel resurfaced. Better yet, just get a new one and be done with it.

9) If you have a hydraulic clutch, plan on replacing the slave cylinder. Hey you got it all apart. Plan on swearing a lot when bleeding the slave cylinder. Never push the clutch pedal in with the slave cylinder not connected...don't ask.

10) Locate very, very, very long bolts with the same thread pattern as the bellhousing bolts. Cut the heads off the bolts and use those as giudes for sliding the tranny back on.

My bonus tip....get an extra set of hands when sliding the tranny back on.

Set aside a Saturday morning and start early. If this is your first one, plan on a 6-8 hour job.

_________________
Jim Pastorius
2008 Silverado VortecMax
1992 Camaro CMC#92
2002 BMW R1150R

2009 3rd Place CMC Mid-Atlantic Championship
2009 CMC Hyperfest Winner

Thanks for the tips, the one about an extra, headless set of bellhousing bolts sounds like a winner.

hmm, looks like a tranny jack is a necessary thing huh,

I'm still gathering together all the things I'm gonna need for this, I haven't even ordered the parts yet, but does anybody have a transmission jack I might could borrow? I could always just bite the bullet and buy one, but its a tool I'd use so rarely I'd prefer not to if I don't have to. I suppose its cheaper than the $450 (and the $100 markup on parts) I got quoted by the shop down the street from my to do the job.

_________________
2012 MX-5 Sport SUV

I am located up in NE Raleigh. You can borrow mine. I don't think I will be using it until after the season. At least I hope not.

_________________
Jim Pastorius
2008 Silverado VortecMax
1992 Camaro CMC#92
2002 BMW R1150R

2009 3rd Place CMC Mid-Atlantic Championship
2009 CMC Hyperfest Winner

That'd be awesome, I'll shoot you a message when I actually get everything together for the job, and find some time when I can actually do it (been working 6 days a week which makes it difficult to find time for it).

What forms of payment do you accept, Miller? Bud? Import?

Thanks again for the offer/advice

_________________
2012 MX-5 Sport SUV

When I have R and R'd the transmissions on my old Datsuns I did not need a transmission jack. I got under it with my head towards the rear end and supported the bell housing with my knees. These were aluminum casing transmissions.

_________________
George Bright Member # 141
One of the youngest of the old farts.
Yes I voted against you joining the club.

I have heard that R&Ring the tranny on a Ranger is pure hell. This was from a guy that did one. I don't know why, seems to me a two wheel drive pickup is about as sweet as you could ask for when pulling a trans.
A tranny jack makes the job way easier, but I have done it with a regular jack

_________________
RedLanternRacing, builders of the fastest cars in last place.
Success is not an option.
1981 Scirocco, "Vera"

Now you're scarin me. I figured for my first clutch replacement, I couldn't have picked an easier vehicle, but now I'm not so sure. It looks like there is plenty of room under there

_________________
2012 MX-5 Sport SUV

I am sorry all I have is one apocryphal tale. It seems to me that it has got to be pretty simple. I am going to search the web to see if I find anything.

_________________
RedLanternRacing, builders of the fastest cars in last place.
Success is not an option.
1981 Scirocco, "Vera"

I found these guys first:

http://www.ranger-forums.com/

These guys have a nice link to FAQ on the front page. Tranny links are down on the left side:

http://www.therangerstation.com/index.php

_________________
RedLanternRacing, builders of the fastest cars in last place.
Success is not an option.
1981 Scirocco, "Vera"

Please keep this stuff in the DC ProSolo thread. Thanks.

_________________
Not spectacular just decent.
I'm not sure what I'm driving.
Maybe an ITR in DS.
Or half-assed STX prepped 330.

Don't forget that you need a "plug" for the tailshaft opening to keep the gear oil in the transmission when you remove the drive shaft. A parts store "should" have the correct plug tool (it simulates the end of the drive shaft).

If you drain the gear oil instead (might be a good idea): 1) have the right quantity of the correct gear oil. 2) lock up all sets of keys with the gear oil to make absolutely sure you do not start the engine with no gear oil in the trans. (no I did NOT learn this the hard way but lots of guys have).

Also assume that when you drain the gear oil there will still be some left to spill on you.

What I have learned the hard way is that the smell of gear oil NEVER comes out of clothing . . .

Edit to add: Don't forget brake fluid for any hydraulic clutch if you open the system.

Dick

_________________
Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

Thanks for all the help guys! I feel like I know everything there is to know about the job now, if I only I had the cash together to actually buy the parts. . .

Its actually not slipping anymore now that it doesn't have the boat behind it, but its still probably a good thing to do, especially if I'm gonna rallycross it

_________________
2012 MX-5 Sport SUV

Don't forget to remove the fill hole plug before you remove the drain plug either.

_________________
Has no responsibility whatsoever.