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 Post subject: trailer winch?
PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 4:54 pm 
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Our new enclosed trailer is arriving tomorrow so we need to start outfitting it. I expect to be winching the car in and out rather than driving it, so I need to get an electric winch. What brand and pull rating are other's using. I like the price on the 2K# ones like Warn or 2.5K Ramsey.
Is there any good reason to go heavier?

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 5:56 pm 
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I'd get the biggest (highest rated) winch you can- within reason.

I have a Superwinch 4500 lb winch on my trailer (flat tilt bed- not enclosed) and I am glad I have it. IMHO, a 2000-2500 lb rated winch would not do the job.

If you ever have to winch a car onto the trailer with a stuck brake or a bent or broken suspension bit, you'll wish you had a 10k lb winch.

Bret.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 8:57 pm 
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A 2000 and a 2500 pound Warn are the same physical winch (or at least used to be), with the lesser one having a mechanical switch and the bigger one having a solenoid. I've winched a tractor probably the same weight as your Solstice (it was a small tractor) onto a much higher trailer using a 2000 pound winch on a four wheeler (the four wheeler was backed on the trailer and I strapped it to the gooseneck of the trailer to hold it). It worked, but I wouldn't want to have to do it often.

I think Bret is right...get into the 4000 pound area at least. I prefer Warn as I've had *great* service out of them.

What I don't know is why you'd winch on. Most folks don't as a matter of course, especially with drop top cars. It's easy to get out since in an enclosed trailer you don't need to put the top up anyway. As long as you have a spotter you'll have no trouble doing it without hitting anything (and I regularly load and unload with no spotter, but I do feel like I'm asking for it one day).


--Donnie


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 1:30 pm 
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This ol body is getting a little too stiff to jump over doors anymore. I have bad knees, and I find it difficult to get in and out of the car if the door isn't able to open fully, and I figure someday we will need to load in the rain with the top up. I'd rather be prepared.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 3:54 pm 
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Chuck Frank wrote:
This ol body is getting a little too stiff to jump over doors anymore. I have bad knees, and I find it difficult to get in and out of the car if the door isn't able to open fully, and I figure someday we will need to load in the rain with the top up. I'd rather be prepared.


Couple things to consider...first, Donna could drive it on. Second, even if you load in the rain, I'd have to think you can put the top up and down *in* the trailer. So put it down after you drive it on. My first enclosed trailer was relatively short (interior height was 6'2" to the lights) and the Miata and Spyder tops both operated easily.

The bigger issue is where to put the winch. If you put it on the floor the the cable is going to rub the floor as it goes out, which will eat cables. You might can get away with a roller on the floor at the back, or you can mount the winch up on something a big higher, but that gets iffy fast. In my new gooseneck trailer I'm planning to put one in the front wall, but I've got mondo structure there that you wouldn't have in a tag trailer.

I'm a fan of having one just in case, but not much of a fan of using one every time. If I were going to use it every time I think I'd spend the big bucks and get whatever the smallest Warn "high speed" winch is. I have a 9500 on my Jeep and even it is "slow", IMHO. Going half that speed would take a while. Oh, I'd be surprised if you didn't end up wanting someone to steer the car anyway....unless your winch is centered *and* you have a dead center tow hook (I assume on that car you have to screw in a tow eye and it probably *isn't* centered), someone will need to steer the car anyway. Or correct it a lot. *shrug*

Another recommendation on all this...DO NOT TRUST YOUR TRAILER TO BE COMPLETELY WATERPROOF. At least not until you've towed it in HEAVY rain. Found that one out the almost hard way...fortunately my leak was on the hood of the car and not the interior. Got it fixed and then regularly hauled with the top down, but be aware that trailer places probably don't test these very well after putting them together, and it would only take one *tiny* hole and one large rainstorm to wreck an inteirior.

I'm thinking you should have just gotten a loading door on the road-side over your wheel wells. Then you could have opened it, driven car on, and opened door and got out. You can probably have one added, in fact. Of course, that only works if the door will open over the wheel well of the trailer (plus an inch for door trim). That generally doesn't work with most car haulers...I got my new one built special so that would work, but it requires some really long ramps since the trailer sits higher (but then again I'm pulling it with a big Freightliner Sportchassis, so I didn't care as much how tall the thing was).


--Donnie


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 5:04 pm 
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Thanks Donnie!
The Soli top requires you to get out of the car to raise and lower it, a catch 22 situation if we happened to be alone. My brother winch loads his Omega (it's hard to drive it in when it (barely) idles at 1500 rpm and on 14" slicks) into his 28' just drives it up the ramp far enough to hook the cable without it rubbing on the floor. It sometimes does require a steering correction or two as it goes in. I haven't looked under the Soli yet for a suitable hookup point. The car is exceptionally smooth underneath, sorta like the Elise.
I was able to get a smoking deal on this trailer, a leftover 06, on a no reserve ebay auction so I had to take it as it was. It has a 1 piece roof, curved rather than flat, so unless the roof vent or endcaps leak I don't expect a water problem, there was no signs of any leakage on the (unfinished) plywood wall panels or floor, but I will check it after a heavy rain (looks like this weekend might be it). My tow vehicle is a month or two from being ready to start towing so I'll have time to check it before I use it. Thanks again for the heads up. You have the toter, and we'll have the panel truck but any suggestions on how to outfit the interior do or don'ts? It's a 24' by the way.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 6:09 pm 
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Here is one way you might be able to get around the cable rubbing the floor while pulling the car in the trailer. Weld two pieces of angle iron together as in the crude drawing. When you use it put the guide on the edge of the floor represented by the yellow/ red rectangle. Feed the cable (blue) through the guide so it rubs in teh V of the top angle iron piece. The bottom piece should keep the cable guide from sliding into the trailer with the cable. As the car comes up the ramp move the guide out of the way.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 7:56 pm 
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George Bright wrote:
Here is one way you might be able to get around the cable rubbing the floor while pulling the car in the trailer. Weld two pieces of angle iron together as in the crude drawing. When you use it put the guide on the edge of the floor represented by the yellow/ red rectangle. Feed the cable (blue) through the guide so it rubs in teh V of the top angle iron piece. The bottom piece should keep the cable guide from sliding into the trailer with the cable. As the car comes up the ramp move the guide out of the way.


Maybe I'm missing something, but wouldn't it be easier to just pull the car partially up the ramps so that the hook is already cleared the trailer floor?

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 10:13 pm 
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Driving it up should work fine. It *may* not be enough on my stupidly-tall trailer to still be able to open the door because of the cables that "help" raise and lower the rear door/ramp, but it should be fine on most. I didn't think about doing that, but then again I never gave regular

As for what to pull with, I thought pretty much all new cars had a small pop out piece of plastic bumper and behind it was a screw attachment point for an eye-bolt (that should be with the tire changing stuff). That way should you need to get put on a rollback there's a "safe" place to pull from. It shouldn't be a big deal to screw that in and out, though on some cars (notably my Porsche Cayman), the plastic piece doesn't appear to be made for repeated use.

Oh, I don't have the toter any more. Just sold it. I now have a Freightliner Sportchassis with a single car gooseneck trailer that has a small bathroom in it, and have a used motorcoach on the way with a new two car stacker to go behind that. It's a 26' tag, but it's like 13' feet tall. :)

Can't think of any real outfitting do's and don'ts. Just be careful when putting screws through the walls from the inside so they don't poke through the outside. :) Assuming you don't have AC on the trailer or anything, get a small generator and a fan/blower to take with you. Enclosed trailers make a nice place to get out of the sun, but even with all doors open the solar gain can be a bitch if there's no moving air (such that going out in the sun can be a better choice!). If you have 12v lights in your trailer I'd highly suggest getting one of the solar panel trickle chargers to keep the battery in your trailer topped off. That will extend the life of your battery since it *would* otherwise die from sitting over the winter at the very least. Plus it can save your butt if you leave the lights on. :)

One thing I added on my prevoius trailer was an 8 gallon water tank from tractor supply. Also got a pressure regulated water pump (like RVs use, except I got one from TSC that's for garden sprayers...same pump, but a lot cheaper). I put it on the tongue because I needed tongue weight on that particular trailer and plumbed it to a spigot on the outside. Then you've got a nice way to wash hands at events. I don't mind using port-a-potties so much, but I do hate not being able to actually *wash* my hands. Anyway, you could put something like that inside easily enough. Heck, mount it up on the wall (obviously would need to be fairly sturdy as you're talking about 60+ pounds of water) and skip the pump and just fill it at home with your garden hose. Take a hose with you and you should have enough pressure outside to wash hands easily enough.

There are lots of great gadgets made by Pit-Pal for trailers. Some worth it, some maybe not. I'm not a great fan of their chair rack. I do like their strap rack. I like "L" track much better than "E" track, though in a plywood wall/floor trailer the E may be smarter (you can use more screws to anchor and just anchor to wood...with L I'd make sure you were going into some metal).

Your car may have T-hook holes in it. If so, get some T hooks and use those to tie the car down. Not sure where to get them, though...my set came from Bob Tunnell via GH Sharp, but I don't know if that's because Bob sells them or what (only my Cayman uses them).

Always throw a strap in your wheels to strap them to your rack if you get a wall mount rack. I do like those, but tires can come out of them. They usually can't bounce out as much as they can turn on their sides and vibrate out.

There are lots of places you can buy pre-made cabinets or even custom ones for trailers. I like having some cabinet space. The more the better, in fact. Exterior lights are overrated. Hardly ever use mine. Beware of items on the floor vibrating around and rubbing up against the car (though plywood floor trailers are really good about *not* letting that happen generally).

Use only Tekonsha brand brake controllers. Period. Use LED lamps wherever possible. Trailers are notorious for killing fuses on tow vehicles for no apparent reason. This is far less likely if you reduce the current they can draw.

Okay, maybe I do know a few dos and don'ts. Probably not much that isn't pretty obvious, though.


--Donnie


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 9:43 am 
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Thanks again.
That's a lot of good info, now I need to do some shopping and figuring.
One thought I had yesterday was to build tire "shelves" Along the top of the walls rather than the more traditional stand up racks (think of overhead luggage racks on busses etc) where the tires would slide in on their sides next to each other. That would keep the racks above head height. With 24' of length I still could get several sets up there. Comments?
AC is definitely in the plans, as is a water supply.
I already have the Tekonsha controller, I bought it last year to put in Gracie our 56 Panel truck tow vehicle.
I need to look in the owners manual and on the Soli for the tow hook attachment. The car has T slots but they are also the jack points (have plug in pucks for lifting ala BMW) so are between the wheels rather than front and rear. I will probably use over the wheel straps at least in the rear.
My brother's trailer has the cables on the door (I assume this one does too, but we haven't even opened the back door yet :oops: ) He split a couple of the foam "pool noodles" and slips them over the cables to keep from possibly dinging his FG doors. Since he races a lot at night, the yellow noodles help make the cables more visible in the dark as well.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 10:17 am 
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Yeah, I'll be adding padding to my tire racks as they are just below head height. So if you can get enough space that way, I say go for it. Only caveat is that Donna may not be able to get them down if they are above *your* head height. At least not the heavier tire/wheel combo of the Soli.

You can now get combo heat pump/AC units for RV's, and the new "low profile" units aren't but a little more expensive than the taller ones. That's what's on my new trailer.

As for the T-hook attachments, that's where they are on the Cayman, too. They are a pain at first, but what I've found is that you can go ahead and clip them to straps. Toss strap under car to near attachment point. Reach around beside car and grab hook and pop it into place without looking. It might be a little more of a contortionist move than you want, though. I'd try it and see first, however. For some reason I'm just not a big fan of the tire straps.

Good idea on the pool noodle thing...I think I've seen someone do that before but had forgotten about it. It's just good to keep someone from trying to go *out* the back of your trailer and make a turn and not see it at all!


--Donnie


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 3:23 pm 
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 4:31 pm 
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Chuck Frank wrote:
This ol body is getting a little too stiff to jump over doors anymore. I have bad knees, and I find it difficult to get in and out of the car if the door isn't able to open fully, and I figure someday we will need to load in the rain with the top up. I'd rather be prepared.


You could always add a second winch in the ceiling to hoist yourself out of the car if you have trouble climbing out of the car in the trailer :-)

Anonymous


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 4:59 pm 
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Eric Peterson wrote:
Chuck Frank wrote:
This ol body is getting a little too stiff to jump over doors anymore. I have bad knees, and I find it difficult to get in and out of the car if the door isn't able to open fully, and I figure someday we will need to load in the rain with the top up. I'd rather be prepared.


You could always add a second winch in the ceiling to hoist yourself out of the car if you have trouble climbing out of the car in the trailer :-)

Anonymous


NOW there's an idea! kinda like the knights of old where they used a crane to get him on his horse with his armor on... I'll never have to stop Axing that way!
:lol: :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 7:02 pm 
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Eric Peterson wrote:

You could always add a second winch in the ceiling to hoist yourself out of the car if you have trouble climbing out of the car in the trailer :-)

Anonymous


This image from Nine to Five comes to mind.

Image

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