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 Post subject: Koni yellow question
PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:42 pm 
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I am gonna be installing my Koni Yellows soon. My question is that the rears are not adjustable on the car. The instructions seem somewhat vague as to the process of setting them. From the diagram, it looks as though I compress them all the way and then rotate the shock body. I tried this but felt nothing engage or click. Anyone have any experience with this style? I think I am going to maybe put them at the "half way point" as a way to start. Thoughts on that?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:51 pm 
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The Konis I have on my BMW E30 (rear) have a small button on top of the shock body that you have to push while you compress and turn the shock body.

Maybe this will help:

http://www.amdtechnik.com/technical.koniadjustment.cfm



Bret


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:12 pm 
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1/2 firm should be fine on your street car. How much of a pain in the rear is it to pull the rear dampers? When I was in STS, I ran the biggest rear bar that I could find -- 21mm. I found that the car would rotate nicely with more rear rebound firmness dialed in than that, but then again it was easier to make the adjustment. With the single adjustable Koni Sports, you're adjusting rebound only -- not compression.

You'll learn pretty quickly how to tune the rear with air pressure rather than turning a knob.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:21 pm 
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BretLuter wrote:
The Konis I have on my BMW E30 (rear) have a small button on top of the shock body that you have to push while you compress and turn the shock body.

Maybe this will help:

http://www.amdtechnik.com/technical.koniadjustment.cfm

Bret


Mine are similar but without the button...

Wes Eargle wrote:
1/2 firm should be fine on your street car. How much of a pain in the rear is it to pull the rear dampers? When I was in STS, I ran the biggest rear bar that I could find -- 21mm. I found that the car would rotate nicely with more rear rebound firmness dialed in than that, but then again it was easier to make the adjustment. With the single adjustable Koni Sports, you're adjusting rebound only -- not compression.

You'll learn pretty quickly how to tune the rear with air pressure rather than turning a knob.


My hopes are to have something that firms things up. I already have a 27mm rear bar and the backl rotates pretty easily now, as I found out in Sanford.

Removal looks pretty easy on my car.

http://www.icestormdesign.com/mwcc/mazd ... 00W01.html

The thing I am not able to grasp is the adjustment for the rears. It kind of seems like a shot in the dark...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:24 pm 
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Dang, that's easy if you have both rear wheels in the air..

What sort of bigger front bar options are there for the 3, or is it like the Contour where it's "step one -- remove front subframe bolts and lower while supporting the engine from above"?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 10:30 pm 
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Wes Eargle wrote:
Dang, that's easy if you have both rear wheels in the air..

What sort of bigger front bar options are there for the 3, or is it like the Contour where it's "step one -- remove front subframe bolts and lower while supporting the engine from above"?


I did a front bar already as well. There was a lot of unbolting subframe, etc. Mike's lift made all of this easy as pie. So I have a Whiteline 22mm bar up front as well.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 11:57 pm 
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some Konis have bump stops that normally stick up inside the cover and you have to push them down through the holes in the top of the cover. Once down and visible, you can take them out. THEN you can compress them to adjust them


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 10:39 am 
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The rear of the RX-8 Koni SA's aren't adjustable on the car, so we just set them to full stiff and mounted them up.

In an STS car, I would do what Wes said, considering you can adjust the car with rear bar, rear toe and spring. - AB

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 11:59 am 
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If you can, I'd have them dyno'ed first. Often times shocks aren't even very close between two on settings. You may find they need to be set a little different on the dial to get the same actual damping. In fact, I'd recommend that for EVERYONE who has shocks that they do not have a dyno graph of. Yes, that includes brand new shocks.

Hmm, that said I don't know of any local places to get shocks dyno'ed. Wonder if there's a market for that...

--Donnie


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 12:25 pm 
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I take mine out of the car to adjust. Mine don't have the bump rubbers, so all I have to do is put a large screwdriver through the bottom eyelet (and stand on the screwdriver so the lower part of the shock can't rotate) and then lean on the top of the shock until it closes. Turn the top of the shock counterclockwise and you should feel something engage inside. Keep turning until you hit a stop. That's full soft. Continuing to hold the shock closed, turn it clockwise the recommended 2 half turns or more to your liking. I think the range of adjustment is about 5 half turns.

I found that 3 half turns made my Mustang pretty unpleasant to drive on the street. Every time I passed over a minor depression on the road (the Durham Expressway is full of them), the back of the car snatched down so quickly it about gave me whiplash. Returning to the Koni recommended 2 half turns lets the car crash and bang evenly over minor surface imperfections.


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