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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 4:53 pm 
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Posts: 65
RodneyWright wrote:
Thanks for the heads up Mark. Already running 17" wheels, so no problem there. I read the post and it looks like I can replace both the front and rear brakes with the rotors, calipers and calipers mounts from the 330. I didn't see anything else mentioned. Is that all I need to purchase?


Thats what it sounds like based on the post I found - I haven't personally done it, merely read about it, however those that posted on that forum seem to have first hand knowledge.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:51 pm 
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Posts: 197
steve remchak wrote:

sounds to me like you are in need of more pad. cheaper than the big brake kits.


Why don't you take Steve's advice and get some real race pads before you spend money on a brake upgrade that bumps you out of STS.

I've have used Carbotech HP-8, HP-9, HP-10 and Hawk HT-10 and never had the problem you describe. I also have pad taper but it has never caused a problem other than wearing the pad out sooner. I have never measured how much taper there was but maybe it is less than yours because I am using a race pad.

Here is a post that James Clay made yesterday on Bimmerforums about what he recommends.
James Clay wrote:

5) Hawk Blue is an old compound, can't handle so much heat, is grabby, and does not release as well as a modern material. Some people still swear by it, but no one races it in higher levels which is a good indicator
6) DTC is the new future for Hawk, but I don't think it is as good for the DE guys. It wears quicker, but the modulation and release is a lot better, more like a PFC.

E36 325:
My favorite setup right now is either a PFC 97 or HT-10 front matched with a PFC 01 rear. This gives the car more rear bias and really slows it down. The modulation ability of the PFC 01 in the rear really lets you trail brake the car hard without making it too sketchy.


I also wonder if using the ABS to stop the car is causing more taper than normal. I would think that the grab-release-grab of the ABS operating would put more stress on the braking system than just threshold braking.

I try never to get into the ABS. I just think that the car slows down more smoothly if your threshold brake without activation the ABS. In my car it's pretty easy to stay out of the ABS because of the high amount of pedal pressure needed to activate it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 5:36 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 10, 2005 7:31 pm
Posts: 686
I agree w/ trying pads first, but for kicks:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... =m3+brakes


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