⚠ Forum Archived — The THSCC forums were discontinued (last post: 2024-05-18). This read-only archive preserves club history. Visit thscc.com →  |  Search this archive with Google: site:forums.thscc.com your search terms

THSCC Forums

Tarheel Sports Car Club Forums
It is currently Tue Apr 07, 2026 10:09 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 15 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Rotor question
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:57 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:10 am
Posts: 2524
Location: greenville
I want to upgrade my rotors. There is somebody on ebay who apparently is buying stock oem replacement brembo's and then cross drilling them himself. Turns out to be quite abit less then buying cross drilled rotors from places like moss and minimania. Anybody have any experience with this or ideas?

_________________
2002 MCS, 2003 MCS Track Rat, 2003 Generic White Yukon, 2003 BMWk1200rs, 1973 CB350F, 02 996. 08 Cayenne Turbo
http://www.clinehallagency.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:04 am 
Offline
Stalker's boyfriend
User avatar

Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2003 2:35 pm
Posts: 2858
Location: Looking for Chuck on the Intraweb
Cline... I fail to see how these would actually be an upgrade. While on one hand it would appear that they would cool much much better, they also are losing a lot of metal used to dissipate heat. My biggest concern would be warping.

I would look for something from a company like Powerstop or the like. When it comes to brakes, I wouldn't play around :wink: - AB

_________________
'14 Toyota Sequoia Platinum 4WD
Super Westerfield Bros - '93 Integra - LeChump Du Jour
STX 93 - Scion FR-S


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:05 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2004 12:21 am
Posts: 384
I thought the consensus was that solid rotors were better unless you like replacing them pretty often. I think cracking is the issue rather than warping. Warping is a bit of a unicorn isn't it? Folks often misinterpret/misdiagnose brake shudder from an uneven pad material transfer layer as warping.


Last edited by Matthew Fortner on Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:09 am, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:06 am 
Offline
I HATE hatchbacks!

Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2003 11:03 am
Posts: 11818
Location: Carolina Beach, NC
I agree with Aaron, just use the factory style rotors. Put the upgrade money towards a good set of pads.

_________________
In need of car.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:07 am 
Offline
JACKASS!!!
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:47 am
Posts: 3683
Offered without comment, http://corner-carvers.com/altimathread.php.html

_________________
Has no responsibility whatsoever.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:14 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:10 am
Posts: 2524
Location: greenville
Matthew Fortner wrote:
I thought the consensus was that solid rotors were better unless you like replacing them pretty often. I think cracking is the issue rather than warping. Warping is a bit of a unicorn isn't it? Folks often misinterpret/misdiagnose brake shudder from an uneven pad material transfer layer as warping.


That's what I have always thought, I have used EBC greenstuff pads, but a couple of my instructors (both driving mini's) suggested the upgrade, as well as more competition like pads. I never felt my brakes have been a limitation on the track so I just was going on their recommendation.

_________________
2002 MCS, 2003 MCS Track Rat, 2003 Generic White Yukon, 2003 BMWk1200rs, 1973 CB350F, 02 996. 08 Cayenne Turbo
http://www.clinehallagency.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:17 am 
Offline
JACKASS!!!
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:47 am
Posts: 3683
Oh, they would also knock you out of stock class.

_________________
Has no responsibility whatsoever.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:21 am 
Offline
Pseudo cautious/nervous guy

Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 8:05 am
Posts: 733
Location: Rockville, MD
Depending on the price of the rotors, you may want to invest in a set of track pads AND track rotors. I've just done this for the front on the RX-8. If you've been running EBC greenstuff, I highly recommend upgrading to a real track pad NOW.

I also agree with the "plain rotor" consensus voiced in this thread. Removing mass from a heat sink makes it a less effective heat sink. Any consideration for cooling a rotor should be addressed with getting some cool air ducted to the brakes.

_________________
Tom Freeman
'98 M3/4/5 | '93 Spec3 325i | '12 TSX sport wagon | '03 Tahoe
Team Silver Bullets '91 240SX


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:48 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:10 am
Posts: 2524
Location: greenville
Wes Eargle wrote:
Oh, they would also knock you out of stock class.


I'm not competative in GS now, my excuse is no stickies, so I think I am going to get my car how I want it for the track and either just run it where it lands in autocross or take my wifes car.

_________________
2002 MCS, 2003 MCS Track Rat, 2003 Generic White Yukon, 2003 BMWk1200rs, 1973 CB350F, 02 996. 08 Cayenne Turbo
http://www.clinehallagency.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:50 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:10 am
Posts: 2524
Location: greenville
What's everybodyies opinion on stainless steel lines?

_________________
2002 MCS, 2003 MCS Track Rat, 2003 Generic White Yukon, 2003 BMWk1200rs, 1973 CB350F, 02 996. 08 Cayenne Turbo
http://www.clinehallagency.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 10:53 am 
Offline
JACKASS!!!
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:47 am
Posts: 3683
clinehall wrote:
Wes Eargle wrote:
Oh, they would also knock you out of stock class.


I'm not competative in GS now, my excuse is no stickies, so I think I am going to get my car how I want it for the track and either just run it where it lands in autocross or take my wifes car.


That's a great attitude that many others in the club embrace as well. Sounds like STX to me. SS lines eliminate a potential point of failure and won't expand when heated. They're not a bad idea at all.

_________________
Has no responsibility whatsoever.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 11:06 am 
Offline
Pseudo cautious/nervous guy

Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 8:05 am
Posts: 733
Location: Rockville, MD
clinehall wrote:
What's everybodyies opinion on stainless steel lines?


I like them, but on a car as new as yours, don't expect a [b]big[/] improvement in pedal feel.

_________________
Tom Freeman
'98 M3/4/5 | '93 Spec3 325i | '12 TSX sport wagon | '03 Tahoe
Team Silver Bullets '91 240SX


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 12:06 pm 
Offline
I hate working the course at autox and I must tell you about it, often.

Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 12:53 am
Posts: 1718
There are a number of companies buying blanks and cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotors. Most of them are creating rotors that are good for "bling" and not functionality. As has been said. They are removing material from a cast peice. Reducing surface area needed for cooling and many do not know how to do it right. So they just weekened your rotors. There is a big difference between a knock-off rotor that is drilled after the fact vs. the very expensive rotors that have holes/slots cast into them.

For track stick with plain rotors. I doubt your EBC Green pads are torturing the rotors. Get some race pads, even light duty style, and watch how fast you go through rotors. I went to Carbotech XP8s from stock pads. After 2 events I cracked both front rotors. Even with cooling ducts. I'm sure Vettes are harder on rotors than Minis but it is a wear item. I use cheap $26 NAPA rotors (made in Canada, not China). They're Raybestos without the label. The guys running Stoptech or Brembos get more events before they crack. But they still crack. And they're paying $200 for each rotor. I keep spare front rotors with me in my trailer along with spare pads.

With stock street pads you may not see much value with ducts. But if you're getting more aggressive pads consider ducts. I've seen those little holes on the front of the Mini that I assume are for ducts. You need the duct to run right up to the back of the spindle/rotor. My factory ducts just blow air around in the wheel well. I extended them to the back of the spindle/rotor with a DRM kit. It makes a difference.

I installed SS lines on my car. Stoptech SS with teflon treating. This is nice if it's a street car as the dirt/debris doesn't eat up the lines. You'll notice the improvement on track in the later part of a session when the heat builds up and the lines don't expand. Other than that with a new car and street pads it probably isn't worth the money.

_________________
http://www.greywinds.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Rotor question
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 12:24 pm 
Offline
The Giver
User avatar

Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 8:45 am
Posts: 4566
Location: Bashing BMWs!
clinehall wrote:
I want to upgrade my rotors. There is somebody on ebay who apparently is buying stock oem replacement brembo's and then cross drilling them himself. Turns out to be quite abit less then buying cross drilled rotors from places like moss and minimania. Anybody have any experience with this or ideas?


IMO, the only way to "upgrade" a rotor is to get a bigger, thicker one. Drilling holes in a cast part will just weaken it. They will most likely crack between the holes. I know...been there, done that at VIR-S with blinged-out cross-drilled and slotted ones.

Unless you're going bigger, I'd recommend the NAPA economy rotors as Graham suggested or Brembo OEM replacements from TR. FYI, I run the NAPA ones on the rear of my car. $32 each compared to $100+ from Autozone. They have held up very well.

_________________
Vincent Keene
'06 Ford Mustang GT (track rat)
'15 Dodge Charger R/T (yeah, it's got a HEMI!)
'07 Ford Fusion SE (205,000 miles and counting)
'98 Chevy Z-24 (retired)
'93 Acura Integra (Team SWB 24HOL Car)


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2006 12:31 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2005 9:10 am
Posts: 2524
Location: greenville
Good advice from everybody, saved me some money!

_________________
2002 MCS, 2003 MCS Track Rat, 2003 Generic White Yukon, 2003 BMWk1200rs, 1973 CB350F, 02 996. 08 Cayenne Turbo
http://www.clinehallagency.com


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 15 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group