Koni shock question

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 9:40 pm

Ok, the bad luck continues...

First the CV boots, then the transmission seal (replaced it just a bit ago), but I started to hear a wierd sqeak on the right front (same side that had the seal problem) so when I had it apart, I tracked down the sqeak to the shock. I pulled it off and found...

1. It has little compression force. So little that it will not push the piston out on it's own (it's supposed to do that due to the internal gas difference right?)

2. Rebound is pretty weak as well.

3. When fully extended, if you compress it, it sinks in about 3/4" quickly and then slows down. Basicallly its don't not have a consistant feel.

I am pretty sure it is busted.

My questions are...

1. Confirm it is toast.

2. I assume I can have someone rebuild it. I keep hearing bad things about one of the shops that rebuilds them. But don't know who. So who do I send this off to?

3. How much will it cost to rebuild (stock valving, etc.)?

4. Any reason to not autocross on it as is this weekend? I know it is going to screw with my handling and may help explain why my car was such an unexpected handful (snap spin) at the last event.

If I send them off to Koni I will need something to use as this is my daily driver. I can put the stock shocks back on, but would prefer not to do so. so I may be looking for some used Konis.

Jason Mauldin · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 9:57 pm

If you have the original receipt, you should send it back to Koni to see if they will warranty it.

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Wed May 17, 2006 10:06 pm

Jason Mauldin wrote:

If you have the original receipt, you should send it back to Koni to see if they will warranty it.

I will see if I can find, but I don't have much hope. :cry:

Chuck Frank · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 9:14 am

I didn't need a receipt to have my Koni leaker repaired. Koni's have a lifetime warantee (I don't think it needs to be the original owner?). Does it show signs of leakage? Unless it's leaking or has been damaged, Koni tells me they don't just "wear out". If it's a Koni yellow, you ought to send them both and have them degassed at the same time. Warning Koni NA is S....L....O....W tho.

Donnie Barnes · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 9:21 am

Koni NA is two months behind right now. Truechoice and ProParts both suck *badly* (I wouldn't trust them).

I wouldn't bother putting a shock back on the car in that shape. Your stock shock is bound to be better than that.

--Donnie

Jason Mauldin · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 9:31 am

Chuck Frank wrote:

I didn't need a receipt to have my Koni leaker repaired. Koni's have a lifetime warantee (I don't think it needs to be the original owner?).

They must've given you special treatment. I had to send them the receipt, proof that actually own a 240sx and the current mileage.

Does anyone know if the shocks are date coded or serial numbered? I notice there is a four digit number that is stamped near my part number that doesn't match on any of my shocks.

I'm only concerned because I have a used set that I have been swapping between as the shocks get soft, and I want to be sure that I'm sending them the shocks that are truely covered under my warranty.

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 9:57 am

Donnie Barnes wrote:

Koni NA is two months behind right now. Truechoice and ProParts both suck *badly* (I wouldn't trust them).

I wouldn't bother putting a shock back on the car in that shape. Your stock shock is bound to be better than that.

--Donnie

Problem is if i put stock shocks back on, it also has to be the stock springs as I am running a GC setup and I can't mix/match Then if I have stock springs in front and GC in rear (with high spring rates) I am worried it will have really funky and dangerous handling traits (daily driver). Then if I swap everything (front and rear) back to stock it is very likely it will stay that way as I am on the fence about continuing to autocross this car.

So... I am hoping I can get some used replacements and then send these off to Koni to be rebuilt.

Question is...

Can I autocross on this shock this weekend? Is it going to just have wierd handling or is there a safety issue that means I should just not participate? Shock is currently back on car and I drove it into work and otherwise is fine. Obviously no 10/10ths driving on the way to work.

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 10:05 am

Chuck Frank wrote:

Does it show signs of leakage? Unless it's leaking or has been damaged, Koni tells me they don't just "wear out".

Can't tell. This is the same wheel well that had the CV boot let go, so EVERYTHING had a light coating of grease and road grit. I have cleaned everything up in general but, I can't tell if it is was leaking or not.

Shocks has been run without dust covers due to the fact that stock Honda dust covers don't work with Koni. I hear you can buy other covers, but I also hear it is pretty common to not put covers on Hondas due to this issue. So shafts have probably experienced more grit than those with a cover. but the shafts still look mirror smooth, but the seals below ? who knows.

If I send one into Koni, I may try to send both so they have equal performance when it is all over. But it is a $$$ thing. I think it costs not much more to buy new vs. having old rebuilt? That is why I am hoping to find a used set.

jimpastorius · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 10:06 am

I don't think it will be a big deal running the shock. It is not like AX is hard on the car. Hell, I ran Sanford with a completely cracked front rotors and stress fractures all over both

I drove the MR2 in a national event with a busted strut link in the front (and that is far worse than your weak shock).

If you are really concerned, call Tom at AutoSport Gallery and see what the cost is for two new fronts and if he can get them in. Trying to find some used ones is pretty much a waste of time. Plus, there is no guarantee that the used ones are any better than what you got on.

Frankly, if the car is safe to drive on the highway, you should be good to go on Sunday. If the car is not safe on the highway, you had better get it that way. There is a lot more risk driving a car to work than 4 runs at Danville...except if you go over the hill :-)

Jason Mauldin · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 10:18 am

Richard, give Koni a call

1-800-922-2616 x6.

If you don't have the receipt, see if they will warranty it anyway, since it seems Chuck was able to do that. They'll bill you for two new shocks at half off list and send them to you. Once you swap those in, just send your old shocks back and if they are bad they'll credit you back for the charge and you keep the two new shocks..

Aaron Buckley · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 10:21 am

I agree with Jim... Best bet is to buy 2 new ones, send the old one's off for warranty, and then either keep the replacements as backups or sell them as 'refreshed'.

A broken shock shouldn't be dangerous, considering about 1/10th of all the cars on the road probably have a bad shock at a minimum

The car will just not handle well.

I'm not sure why Charles is telling you to have the shocks degassed. On a stock setup, it might lower the car a 1/4" or so, but on a setup in which you can adjust ride height, it's pointless.

Used shocks are like buying used condoms. - AB

Chuck Frank · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 12:09 pm

Degassing the Koni yellows increases their response rate Per Koni. They degass any that are sent in for or are built with custom valving per Mr. Grimes.

Aaron Buckley · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 2:59 pm

Chuck Frank wrote:

Degassing the Koni yellows increases their response rate Per Koni. They degass any that are sent in for or are built with custom valving per Mr. Grimes.

Good info. Thanks - AB

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2006 4:16 pm

Jason Mauldin wrote:

Richard, give Koni a call

Thanks for the info. I called and the process you mentioned above is what I think they call their "replace in advance" process. Which is probably going to work well for me.

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