Ron Spencer wrote:
While ride height is important its not the measurement you want to make. What you want to do, as Diane said, is get the cross weights (front left plus right rear to equal front right plus left rear) to be as close to the same as possible WITH THE DRIVER IN THE CAR!!
You can use real scales like Mark Vitacco has and will rent time to you on or you can do the cheap man's version which is, no surprise, what I do. I use 4 standard cheap bathroom scales and levers to split the weight at the scale. If you want more detail let me know off line and I'll go into how to do this. Results? Using this method in my garage I got my Miata's (now Diane's) cross weights to within 50 lb of each other (as measured later on Roebling Road's scales). Not too bad for abut $40 and an hour or so of time.
Setting your car up compared, in this case, to Bowie's is an OK place to start but not necessarily the place to end.
Good luck!
Ron
Sure Ron, and I have corner weighted my car (although I am skeptical of the "holy grail" of corner weighting) but you have to have reasonable ride height starting points. I mean the coil over has a range adjustment of several inches. You don't just wanna slap them on there hap hazzardly, with 14 inch ride height on one corner and 11 on another. Corner weighting is a fine tuning adjustment made after ride height is set. After I set my ride height, when I then corner weighted, I doubt I moved any single corner more than an 1/8 of an inch, if that.
As much of a pain as it is to coner weight the car, you don't want to have to make to many adjustments. After precisely setting my ride heights, my corner weights were pretty close the first time rolling on the scale, only need a couple slight adjustments to nail the corner weight.