THSCC Forums

OK, I'm planning on putting the Konis and GCs on the Miata this Sunday (nothing like planning ahead right??) and need some pointers.

Anybody got some pointers for a complete suspension n00b?

One specific question I have is, how do I make sure the ride height is set correct before I put the car on the ground?

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Todd Breakey
STS 42 - 1992 Sunburst Miata
Dammit!
"You souldn't play leap frog with a porcupine. You might get hurt." - Eliza

Start Friday night.

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In need of car.

Who did you get your kit from? I would start there. Unless you have some "suggested" ride height settings for your set up from the mfg or from someone with the same set-up it's just guessing as to what your ride height will be. Don't the miata's have a wishbone setup in the front?

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Silver Honda
Green Ford
Blue/White Suzuki
Red Triumph
Grey BMW

"Never let life be shaped by fear of its end"

No, you're a towel!

Mark everything!, especially the cam-bolts on the front suspension.
Be prepared to remove the front lower A-arms to make the removal of the front struts easier. The method in the manual makes it very diffucult to get the struts out without a heavy assistant!

Have fun!

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Brad

Got it from Good-Win-Racing. I'll check onthe ride height stuff there. Thanks for the suggestion.



I'll pick up a paint pen tomorrow. Thanks Brad. And I have a feeling I should warn the neighbors that there could be some colorful language from my garage this weekend!!

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Todd Breakey
STS 42 - 1992 Sunburst Miata
Dammit!
"You souldn't play leap frog with a porcupine. You might get hurt." - Eliza

PB Blaster

Use it, on everything before you start. You will thank me after...

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91 Jetta GLI STS/DSP 111
85 Porsche 944 ASP 11
http://www.blackforestindustries.com

Ditto the PB Blaster, and also when you go to adjust your ride height settings (as you most likely will), make sure to roll/drive the car in and out of the garage, turning the wheel one way and then the other. If you dont, the static load can cause the car to sit the same no matter what height changes you've made on the shock. I had an aquaintance who was cutting springs to adjust his ride height (i know...big no-no). He would cut ~1/2", reinstall and set the car down. Looked at it, jacked it back up, cut another ~1/2", reinstall and set the car back down. After doing this a few times, he went to drive the car and as he backed it out of the garage it practically fell about 2" from where it was sitting. From that scenario I've learned to roll a car around a bit to see where it *really* sits before making any more adjustments. Hey, at least a shock/springs combo adjustment is reversible.

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'93 Mazda RX7, touring ed., 5 spd.

You can do the Miata suspension fairly easily. If you don't have the RB blocks, use the "long bolt" method in the front. You can get the stock stuff out in no time. The rears are easy peasy.

Trust me, I'm finishing the bushings tomorrow.

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Has no responsibility whatsoever.

Agreed. Pull the top long A-arm bolt (I assume this is the method you refer to Wes) to free the upper arm. Note you may need to loosen the FSB bolt(s) to free it. remove shock bolts, wedge a 4' 2x4 on the lower arm, pry down, and you're free. Not changing allignment this way - but since you're changing ride height, you're gonna want to allign anyway.

More detail on Miata.net garage section.

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Dustin Fredrickson
-- I'm a nobody --

Agree and agree. The top A arm long bolt is the way to do this in the front. At least two other methods exist, but do the long bolt.
Rears are easy, even for me.

Here's a link w/pics for the fronts to give you an idea:

http://miata.net/garage/miatafrontsuspension.html

You will need an alignment if you change ride height. The plus is that a lower car has more static negative camber.

Lots of info also available about ride heights and bumpstops ....

Frank

Incredibly anal writeup

This method for the front uses a different method for the fronts. I tried it, and like Men on Film, hated it.

Use the middle position of the Konis for the circlip; I found that only eight turns from the bottom (as advised above) wasn't nearly enough for the ride height and the car was teh slammed so much that I scraped the exhaust against the gravel driveway.

Now would be a good time to think about upgrading your eight alignment bolts too from the course thread 10+ year old ones to new fine threaders.

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Has no responsibility whatsoever.

Yep, I've followed the Jamie writeup to get the "tongue" bolt. Probably my second favorite way to do the fronts but the long bolt is much better. Getting that bottom bolt restarted in the tongue method can be frustrating.

I tired a Dalan hitch install last weekend. Those nuts welded to the metal sticks working in that blind box section sorta reminded me of the tongue method. It's all about "feel" ....

Frank

Thanks for the help guys.

Looks like it is going tho be the long bolt method for me. Picking up the paint pen and another can of PB today. I think that soaking everything over night should do it.

Next weekend I will be on a new suspension......or in the Mustang if all else fails!!!

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Todd Breakey
STS 42 - 1992 Sunburst Miata
Dammit!
"You souldn't play leap frog with a porcupine. You might get hurt." - Eliza

Bahhh, screw that messy crap. Put the hot wrench on it!

Heat is your friend.

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02 Focus SVT
STF 9

While the "Hot Wrench" would be cool, I don't think my wife would like me burning down the house!!! I am a little bit of a pyro!

I think I'll stick with the PB.

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Todd Breakey
STS 42 - 1992 Sunburst Miata
Dammit!
"You souldn't play leap frog with a porcupine. You might get hurt." - Eliza