THSCC Forums

I'm looking at adding an oil cooler to my sm2 project car. I don't buy into the expense of the GReddy and Moss Motors systems. I feel pretty sure I could home brew something for $150 or less. This system would include a relocated oil filter, though probably not in the conventional location.

Since I'm ultimately looking for High HP, I think I need something like a 19 row oil cooler. Mocals seem popular(Moss) but are quite pricey. How about a unit made by Long? I believe the Earl's and B&M units are of that manufacture. What should I stay away from?

I'm also hoping the supplemental cooling of the oil cooler will offset the neccessity for a bigger radiator.

KB

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“I feel safer on a racetrack than I do on Houston's freeways.” - A.J. Foyt

Kevin Butler
Mobetta Autosport Spec E30 #612
2003 C5 Z06 Corvette
AFR Miata, SM2 61, '93 w/200 SC'd RWHP - soon to be resurrected
Waaaay too many other projects....

Vincent Keene, paging Vincent Keene.....

Kevin, I need to come over and talk, I have the sandwich adapter plate (never used on my CRX) it fits the Miata as well. I got some trading in mind....

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02 Focus SVT
STF 9

I got mine (Tru-Cool) from Racer Parts Wholesale. It's a11"x11" 48 rowunit. Price was $80, but I already had the sandwich adapter and hoses which you can buy elsewhere.

Stay away from the mega expensive AN fittings and braided lines and you can do the setup for $150. If you want the bling you'll have to double that price.

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Vincent Keene
'06 Ford Mustang GT (track rat)
'15 Dodge Charger R/T (yeah, it's got a HEMI!)
'07 Ford Fusion SE (205,000 miles and counting)
'98 Chevy Z-24 (retired)
'93 Acura Integra (Team SWB 24HOL Car)

Remember you prob also want some sort of thermostat for temp control. If you can't bypass the core on cold days it could be a problem getting the oil to the proper operating temp ....

If you are really looking for results on the cheap, a remote oil filter adapter and an oil cooler from any junked 2nd gen RX-7 will do the job.
(And keep your car all Mazda!) Neal Bob

What hose and fittings are you using and where did you get it?
I need hose rated to 300deg continuos use. Only the braided SS hose is rated to 300deg. The straight silicone hose is rated to 250deg.

I was looking at Earl's hardware. Auto-Flex hose with Auto-Fit ends. It definetely is more expensive. I could care less about the bling.

I already know which cooler and adapter I want to use. Just the plumbing and mounting is where I'm trying to figure it out. The Auto-Fit ends look like no special tools are required.

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http://www.greywinds.com

just stumbled across this thread. I am going with this stuff:

a tru-cool oil cooler. Cant decide on the 5.75 x 11 or the 8 x 11.



A thermostat:


a power steering cooler (just a little guy to keep my reservoir from overflowing):


Ducting:
http://www.spectorracing.com/catalog/category_115_Ducting_page_1.html

filter relocation:

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1995 240SX

Is this intended for autocross cooling? If so, you may want to do something to force air through the ducting when the car isn't moving between runs. Then run the engine some of the time to move oil in/out of the cooler.

There are various "duct fans" available, maybe a boat bilge vent van. I think one of the NASCAR type racing vendors may sell a brake duct or whatever fan.

I cool the formula car between runs by restarting the engine enough to circulate water in/out of the exposed side mounted radiators.

No oil cooler, just Mobil 1.

Some guys also have supplemental fans run with a separate battery for cooling the water between runs. Formula Fords do not have fans or alternators. They also don't have high HP . . .

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

If you have the room bigger is better. With the thermostat (I have one just like that) you can't over cool the oil.

So when are you coming back to the track again Shane?

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Vincent Keene
'06 Ford Mustang GT (track rat)
'15 Dodge Charger R/T (yeah, it's got a HEMI!)
'07 Ford Fusion SE (205,000 miles and counting)
'98 Chevy Z-24 (retired)
'93 Acura Integra (Team SWB 24HOL Car)

When I put an oil cooler on my PL510 I bought a kit from JC Whitney. It had a thermostatic sandwich plate and I bought better hoses for it. If I remember it was a 13 row cooler. To help cool the turbo engine I was able to find a 3 row radiator that was only a little more than a stock part. I got it from a place in Winston Salem. I think it was called the radiator shop. This was years ago though. I think that Lake Shore Radiator 556 Pylon Drive Raleigh 828-6452 handles radiators from that place.

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George Bright Member # 141
One of the youngest of the old farts.
Yes I voted against you joining the club.

I think C&R will make custom radiators with all the oil coolers and stuff integrated into one piece. Nice but VERY expensive.

This really wont be for autox cooling. If I was autoxing I wouldn't really feel the need for any of this. Its all for HPDE and Time attack/Circuit-cross. Since the last VIR event I went to I've put more thought into making the car reliable. Not that it wasn't but the peace of mind wasn't there. I had a cooling problem that plagued me the entire weekend that could have been disastrous if I hadn't of noticed it and kept on it. Turned out all it was was one of my radiator hose clamps wasn't installed perfectly perpendicular to the neck.


Soon I hope. I can't make the car guys event unfortunately. My job requires me to work every other weekend. That kills my HPDE attendance. Plus my car has been down for 3 months. I had an exhaust leak and some other small issues that took a long time to get parts for. I wasn't in a huge hurry to fix them since I was going to France and the weather was sweltering hot. I knew I didn't want to do any more events until Fall. I'm dying to drive my car again.

Now I pretty much have everything. Im putting my OEM turbo manifold back on the car so I need to get an EGT bung welded in. All new gaskets down to the catback. I got new inner and outer tie rods. Deleted my a/c.
New front control arm bushings. My shimmy in the front end should be gone now. After I get the coolers in I have to redo all my gauges too.

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1995 240SX