THSCC Forums

I am in the middle of replacing my timing belt (as well as accessory belts) and the bolt in the pivot point for my alternator is frozen solid. I have tried PB blaster and it is not loosing up. I am starting to round off the nut and it is in a tight spot that it hard to work with. So I can't use an impact wrench. I can barely get a regular socket and ratchet on it.

After reading Jim's Axle Pinion Bolt post, I am wondering about heating it with something like MAPP gas. But my concern is that this bolt is probably an inch away from the alternator. I don't have any experience with MAPP (or any other gas). Is this a candidate or am I going to fry my alternator in the process? Any suggestions on how to do this? Maybe some way to insulate the alternator?? How small can you make the flame on those things? I think if I could keep the flame size down it might work.

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Richard Casto
1972 Porsche 914
2013 Honda Fit Sport
2015 Honda Fit EX
http://motorsport.zyyz.com
Money can't buy happiness, but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than a Kia.

Fire it up!

Just dont go crazy with it, you dont have to heat it until its cherry red. You will probably be amazed at how little it actually takes.

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02 Focus SVT
STF 9

Remember, the Alternator's a die-cast ALUMINUM alloy!!! It will melt in the 800-1,000 degree range, depending on the Zinc and Silicon content.

Be careful with that torch, Eugene...

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Brad

Yeah, you don't want to set the controls for the heat of the sun.

KB

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“I feel safer on a racetrack than I do on Houston's freeways.” - A.J. Foyt

Kevin Butler
Mobetta Autosport Spec E30 #612
2003 C5 Z06 Corvette
AFR Miata, SM2 61, '93 w/200 SC'd RWHP - soon to be resurrected
Waaaay too many other projects....

Ok, MAPP didn't for the one I was originally posting about. I ended up having to grind the nut off the bolt. Only took me a few hours as I didn't want to destroy the bolt and it was in a very tight spot. I DID have another bolt that wouldn't come out. By heating the area around the bolt and then by cooling the bolt head (can of air upside down) I was finally able to break it loose.

All of this just to get the accessories off or loose!! The crank pulley bolt was supposed to be the only hard one. It was tough, but I was able to get it off without resorting to heroic methods. Now I have one last bolt on the timing cover and it is blocked by the oil dipstick tube. No clue on how to get around that. Currently searching posts on Honda-Tech to find out how to remove the dipstick tube.

Brad and Kevin, Being a Pink Floyd fan, I actually know what you are joking about.

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Richard Casto
1972 Porsche 914
2013 Honda Fit Sport
2015 Honda Fit EX
http://motorsport.zyyz.com
Money can't buy happiness, but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than a Kia.

Que? Those two things dont mix on a D-series motor. The dipstick tube should be nowhere near anything timing belt related.

This should be an exploded view of your T-belt



What cant you get off?

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02 Focus SVT
STF 9

Ryan,

Thanks for the help. On that diagram the lower cover, the middle bolt hole on the left is covered by the oil dipstick tube. If you look at the diagram (hard to see) there is semi-circular channel in the ribs between the top and middle bolt hole that the tube runs up through/against The clip (item number 3) clips the tube to the lower cover to hold it in place. Mine is a late D16Y7 (SOHC no VTEC) motor which might be different from other D series. I think other D or B series motors have a bolt to hold the tube in place.

Turns out from reading on Honda-Tech that the tube is held in place on my engine by an o-ring. You just have to pull hard to pop it out. I managed to get it all back together and running last night. I didn't drive it to work today as I still need to finish filling up the coolant. I let it run last night, but got tired of waiting for the thermostat to open up so I could top the coolant off as well as burp it to get any trapped air out of the system. I also haven't reved it higher than idle, so I need to test drive it. It did start up just fine.

By the way, were did you get that diagram from? The version of that diagram that is on the Majestic Honda parts page is crappy. It seems like I used to have a link to some other online parts place that had better images than Majestic (you could even click the image if I remember correctly to link to parts), but the prices were not as good as Majestic.

That diagram was worth much more than my Haynes manual. It had instructions for how to deal with the balancing shaft belt and other stuff that is just not on my engine. Basically the instructions sucked.

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Richard Casto
1972 Porsche 914
2013 Honda Fit Sport
2015 Honda Fit EX
http://motorsport.zyyz.com
Money can't buy happiness, but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than a Kia.

I'm going to guess he got it here.

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Stephen Westerfield
2009 Infiniti M35 | 2007 Honda Fit Sport | 2005 Ford Mustang GT |2000 GMC Sierra |1992 Acura Integra LS | Super Westerfield Bros Acura Integra

Right-click...Properties.

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Vincent Keene
'06 Ford Mustang GT (track rat)
'15 Dodge Charger R/T (yeah, it's got a HEMI!)
'07 Ford Fusion SE (205,000 miles and counting)
'98 Chevy Z-24 (retired)
'93 Acura Integra (Team SWB 24HOL Car)

Doh! Didn't think of that. Yep that is the place I remember.

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Richard Casto
1972 Porsche 914
2013 Honda Fit Sport
2015 Honda Fit EX
http://motorsport.zyyz.com
Money can't buy happiness, but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than a Kia.

www.slhondaparts.com destroys Majestic's site. On SL's site, you can click the part in the pic and it brings up the price and part number.

Majestic is generally a bit cheaper though.

Also, all D-series blocks are virtually the same. Hell I used the crank from a 96 Civic in my rebuild on the CRX.

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02 Focus SVT
STF 9