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 Post subject: Replacing brake fluid on the ITR
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 11:57 am 
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Location: 21st century digital boy...
Considering my brake fluid officially looks like Guinness Stout, I think it's about time to bleed and replace it. The strange thing is that the brakes still bite as hard as they did at 23k. Then again, it's never seen any track action, just autocross.
My question is, have you guys ever used those one-man bleed kits and if so how well do they work? I've been scoping out a few Harbour Freight ones that are in the $35 dollar range.
Any experience/input/recommendations would be appreciated.

thanks!
-Matt




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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 12:04 pm 
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Location: Raleigh, NC
Matt,

I bought one of the mighty vac hand pumps (from Car Quest). It worked like a champ. Attach it to a front brake and pull the fluid through. Then hit up the other three. Easier and less messy than the other one man setups that I have used.

I actually got it to bleed the MR2's clutch...they are a nightmare to bleed.

I am going to get one that attaches to my air compressor next.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 12:16 pm 
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i have a motive power bleeder and it works like a champ. half the benefit is the one man part, the other half is that it keeps the resevoir full so you dont have to worry about letting air in


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 2:02 pm 
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I hate working the course at autox and I must tell you about it, often.

Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 12:53 am
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I've used the MightyVac with limited success. Mainly getting a good seal on the bleeder screw even with all the adapters that come with it. I'm going with the Motive power bleeder that Dan is using. Simplifies the one man bleeding process.

I've also found some notes that it is better to pressurize the MC and push fluid through (Motive) vs sucking it through (MightyVac). There have been complaints that the MightyVac creates bubbles in the caliper.

I haven't found the Motive in town though and will have to order it online. About $65. The MightyVac is easy to find locally for about $30-$70 depending on whether you get the one with the plastic or metal body.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 6:28 pm 
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Location: In the garage, under a big old Mercedes
I use a Motive Products power bleeder, seen here: http://www.motiveproducts.com/

Once you master the art of getting the universal adapter to seal up properly, it's wonderful. Pressurize to about 10psi, and walk around the car. Crack open bled screws and wait for the fluid to run clean. Dead simple.[/url]

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 7:03 pm 
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You're just jealous

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Location: Raleigh, NC
http://www.speedbleeder.com/

They WORK. Call the number on the website. It is a home based business run by the guy and his wife. He machines the parts.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 7:48 pm 
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Karl Shultz wrote:
I use a Motive Products power bleeder, seen here: http://www.motiveproducts.com/

Once you master the art of getting the universal adapter to seal up properly, it's wonderful. Pressurize to about 10psi, and walk around the car. Crack open bled screws and wait for the fluid to run clean. Dead simple.[/url]


I also have a Motive power bleeder. I guess the secret is getting that univeral adapter to seal. I have not figured it out.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 7:58 pm 
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You're just jealous

Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:14 pm
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Location: Raleigh, NC
I should clarify slightly regarding the speedbleeders. By saying they WORK what I meant was that they make ONE person bleeding EASY. It is just like two person bleeding except that you don't need the "bleeder valve person". You simply open the bleeder valve with hose and catch bottle attached. Then pump the pedal in the normal manner. If you loop clear hose above the bleeder you can see whether the old dirty fluid and/or bubbles have been flushed. Even works for a hydraulic clutch system on my race car. The thread sealant even reduces/eliminates the air which tends to get sucked into the bleeder hose with normal bleeders.

Dick

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 9:08 pm 
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i also havent had good luck w/ the universal adapter for the motive bleeder. i have the euro car 'cap' that works w/ the VWs and the BMW that screws on the reservoir and works really well. so def get the right cap for your car


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 9:40 pm 
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I hate working the course at autox and I must tell you about it, often.

Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 12:53 am
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jimpastorius wrote:
Karl Shultz wrote:
I also have a Motive power bleeder. I guess the secret is getting that univeral adapter to seal. I have not figured it out.


Get the GM late model cap. That should work just fine with the Camaro. I'm ordering mine that way since the 4 cars I need to maintain are all GM :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 9:46 pm 
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Location: Greenville, NC
With the Motive bleeder, you can buy a stock cap from the Stealership, and get a brass barb from Lowes. JB Weld the brass fitting into the cap, VOILA!

VK and I have one for our Mazda's

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 1:47 am 
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I've been quite happy with the speed bleeders. They let you bleed them one man anytime and anywhere. No adapters. Just a wrench and tube.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2005 11:29 am 
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(that's pronouced 'bah-kah)
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Location: Durham
I've built a motive style bleeder out of a garden sprayer and a hose barb from ace hardware. The seal problem is just as Ryan said get a cap from a dealer or salvage yard or your parts car and attach the hose barb (I did with two jam nuts and two gaskets that I made).
I prefer the motive style because you can pressurize, get on your mechanics creeper and bleed all four wheels without having to stand up until your finished. I made the pressurized hose six feet long, so that the pump sits on the ground. if the pressure bleeds off I simply roll over to it and give it four more pumps and continue on. Thats important when your 64 years old with artificial knees!!!!!! The whole thing cost about $18. I've used vacuum bleeders, you still have to get up and down to fill the reservoir. For my purposes the pressurized method is the best...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 5:35 pm 
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Bernie Baake wrote:
on. The whole thing cost about $18. I've used vacuum bleeders, you still have to get up and down to fill the reservoir. For my purposes the pressurized method is the best...


Sounds like a business opportunity, I'll give you 19.95 plus shipping and handling for yours!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2005 6:31 pm 
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(that's pronouced 'bah-kah)
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Location: Durham
[quote="clinehall]
Sounds like a business opportunity, I'll give you 19.95 plus shipping and handling for yours!![/quote]

As of now it only works on MGB's, when I mod it for Mini's the price goes up!!!!Everything costs more when it works on something BMW makes!!!

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