THSCC Forums

$345 to the door was the cheapest I could get aluminum for(Fidanza). That's $34.50/lb for 10 lbs weight reduction. I'm already dreading my next credit card bill. The machine work is something like $20/lb for 4 lbs. I'm willing to go that far for now. In the meantime I'll just lurk around ebay & miata.net and snatch up a used one.



I haven't got there Vincent. I hope to get the motor installed and running this weekend. I have done a little gauge homework/planning, but drive train and cooling got top priority for a while. I had resolved myself to not loose sleep about gauges for Feburary. I guess I'll take the hint and try at least to get an oil temp gauge(already got a functional oil pressure with the '93 gauge and sending unit). I was thinking I wouldn't need oil cooling until I got the A/A intercooler installed(hopefully this spring). Guess I'll look into that too.

Have you played with the water temp gauge on your Miata? There's a way you can make it accurate by soldering a resistor on its back. I'm thinking of doing it(eventually). You could then get a new water temp guage face made accurately showing the values. I figure the expense for the graphics work wouldn't be that bad if enough of us did it together like a group buy.

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“I feel safer on a racetrack than I do on Houston's freeways.” - A.J. Foyt

Kevin Butler
Mobetta Autosport Spec E30 #612
2003 C5 Z06 Corvette
AFR Miata, SM2 61, '93 w/200 SC'd RWHP - soon to be resurrected
Waaaay too many other projects....

I haven't heard about this. Got a link to the info?

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Vincent Keene
'06 Ford Mustang GT (track rat)
'15 Dodge Charger R/T (yeah, it's got a HEMI!)
'07 Ford Fusion SE (205,000 miles and counting)
'98 Chevy Z-24 (retired)
'93 Acura Integra (Team SWB 24HOL Car)

The mod you speak of is a NB mod only AFAIK.

IMHO, the stock water temp gauge is about as accurate at licking your finger and sticking it in the air to find out the temp. At the THSCC Rockingham event my little 1.6 Miata started to overheat (according to the stock gauge) a little on Sunday. Not shifting to 5th on the oval made it do this. IF I had a good run out of T7, and left it in 4th, it would blip the limiter just before my braking marker. 5 laps and the temp gauge was at 3/4.

I now have Water Temp, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure VDO gauges. I dont like flying blind, I would think the you wouldnt either with a S/C.

Go to Autozone or Advance and get the Sunpro gauges. Yeah they are arent pimp VDO or Autometer gauges but they WORK and are about $16/ea.

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02 Focus SVT
STF 9

This site has applications for all M1's and some M2's

http://www.gravitydesign.net/saturn/miata/MTGLP.cfm

I'm going discuss it with some of my EE's here at work to verify if the info within is go/no go.

_________________
“I feel safer on a racetrack than I do on Houston's freeways.” - A.J. Foyt

Kevin Butler
Mobetta Autosport Spec E30 #612
2003 C5 Z06 Corvette
AFR Miata, SM2 61, '93 w/200 SC'd RWHP - soon to be resurrected
Waaaay too many other projects....

hrmm well you can easily make a linear pot behave like a logarithmic w/ a resistor, it is probably working like that. although in this case the problem is that it is already logarithmic and it needs to be more linear.. hrm

So I've been monkeying around with the STi. It's been retired from dirt competition (for now), so I've added a Whiteline adjustable front bar, offset control arm bushings for more caster, Koni inserts with ground control coilovers, and crash bolts in the front. Took me a couple of weeks to work out the setup, then get everything in place and adjusted, but the difference from stock is unfreakingbelievable. It is sooooo much smoother when powering out of corners with a slight drift, the body roll is barely noticeable and it even rides better than stock.

STU just got a lot more fun.

Sidenote about the Falken Azenis RT-615... power oversteer produces absolutely no noise whatsoever. All you have to go on is the feeling of the rear tires sliding. Completely silent - no squealing, no scrubbing sound, nothing. It was a little freaky at first, but now I've gotten used to it. I'm going to enjoy putting the RE070's on there for the test & tune and hearing those bitches scream for mercy.

Oh, and the guy I bought the car from is finally bringing me the stock stuff that was missing - so it will be at least 99% legal!!

It's gonna be fun watching you guys battle it out this season in STU. It really makes to temptation to get an Evo that much more unbearable.

^^ bring it! ^hey, you too

me and rob are gonna have some fierce track/autox alignments ourselves. RAWWRR

Kevin,

The 070's will squeal at stock settings. At AutoX settings they are noiseless and slide smoothly and predictably. My RT-215's squeal at AutoX settings, and my winter all-seasons squeal and chirp every time I hit the gas

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Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder.

When I took the RE070's to VIR Patriot on the blue RS, they were screaming almost all the way around the track. The RT215's used to make a scrubbing sound when pushed past the limit, but the 615's don't even do that - they just slide.

Oh, also - I took the stock suspension from the STi and installed it on the 2.5RS. Took some ghetto engineering on the rear to make the springs mate up to the stock rear tophats, but it works great - on pavement and on dirt. Doesn't do the bouncy thing like it did on the STi, either.

Rallycross just got a lot more fun!

Got the motor in the '93! (no drive train or radiator though)
I won't be able to finish it up this weekend. I hope to wrap it up by the end of next week.

_________________
“I feel safer on a racetrack than I do on Houston's freeways.” - A.J. Foyt

Kevin Butler
Mobetta Autosport Spec E30 #612
2003 C5 Z06 Corvette
AFR Miata, SM2 61, '93 w/200 SC'd RWHP - soon to be resurrected
Waaaay too many other projects....

Nice work.

In the boring world of Stock Class: I got my SSRs and Hoosiers yesterday. Hankooks are getting here today.

Since the car is new to me, I'll have way too many variables already and see no point in shredding the Hoosiers with stupid mistakes. With that in mind, I'll probably will run the 'kooks at the T&T.

Even with that, I see a set of V710s in my future later this season. Two of the Hoosiers are well loved, the other two look to be pretty solid still.

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Not spectacular just decent.
I'm not sure what I'm driving.
Maybe an ITR in DS.
Or half-assed STX prepped 330.

Nifty thread.



You know they've won LeMans like 5 years in a row, right?

Patrice's PWR is impressive for a door slammer. I think the Radical is at something around 9.2 lbs/hp with it's current junkyard motor.

If I ever have an off season (tested at VIR in November, raced at Sebring the week after New Years) I'll install my 'race' motor (finally finished being built, up something in the range of 25hp, PWR will be around 7.75 lbs/hp I think).

Also found a nifty motorcycle solenoid shifter setup with a fancy ignition interrupter. With some fabrication and a little luck I'll have a paddle shifter setup with no-lift-shift for the upshifts sometime this spring. The paddle shifters aren't so much for performance as they are for helping me feel more like Fernando Alonso behind the wheel ('cause we all know my driving ain't foolin' anyone).

I'm finally getting a proper front 'diffuser' made for the car as well, so I can stop destroying splitters and messing up the nose of the car (whenever I go off and tear the splitter off). My plan used to be "don't go off" but then I had to take evasive action to miss a spinning car at Sebring and decided I had better get a new plan.

Good thing I'm making a bunch of changes to the car so I can run against NOBODY (in my class) at the TT in April.

-Matt

PS - 8" of snow on the ground and 8 below this past weekend. I loves me some Canada!

Well, I have gone off the deep end and got myself a new project. You can follow along on www.v8mongrel.com . The site is still in its infancy, but I have only had the car for ≈60 hours so cut me some slack!

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Rich
http://www.v8mongrel.com/