THSCC Forums

sounds like the bldg is relatively new, shingles shouldn't be a problem @ 60mph if the roof has a decent pitch, but if concerned and if possible orient the ridge in the travel direction. I vote for the rollback.
In case it matters, once you hook up to electric, it becomes a permanent structure and requires a building permit and permanent foundation. In most jurisdictions even a non electified storage bldg requires some sort of tie downs, they can't just sit on the ground.
As far as moving a bldg on your lot that is sitting on the ground, I moved one across my yard quite easily the old fashioned way by levering it up and placing a series of 12" long rollers cut from 3" waterpipe under it. I attached a cable to the two front corners with eyebolts to form a bridle, and was able to pull it around by hand while Donna played the pick up the rollers at the back and put them down in front game. I even rotated the bldg 90* in the process.

_________________
SPIN or WIN!
there's no glory for going slow.

I've had several buildings like this moved by rollback. Heck, I've had 12'x16' moved by rollback. Barn style, so it was tall.

Just measure it once on the rollback and then make sure the dude knows how tall it is and to pay attention to bridge heights. You can probably find a rollback operator who has done this before. It's pretty common. He'll just need some long straps (with a building that small I'd literally strap over the whole thing). You'll want a piece of steel to put across the back two runners (it's probably built to be moved this way) so that you can run his cable under the building and wrap around the piece of steel that spans across the two runners and just drag it up on to the truck.

If the shingles get screwed by the wind, just replace at home. They'll probably be fine, though. If you want to be anal I'd just try using some of the big packing stretch wrap and go around the edge of the shingles so wind can't get under there. Big pain as it'll take ladders and moving all the way around multiple times, though. Shingles are cheap.


--Donnie

Mike if you try it yourself please take lots of pictures. We could use them forthe party! Nothing is funier then seeing pictures of: Mike and a shed stuck under a bridge, Mike on the side ofthe road talking to "the Man", Mike wondering exactly where the building left the trailer (thought it suddenly got easier to tow!), etc, etc.

Mike if you used your own trailer were you going to use a come along to get the building up on the trailer? Would be slow but probably work until you got to having to get over the wheels.

Next question. Once its up there and home how do you intend to get it off the trailer? Got a BIG tree near where it should land?

I've always thought the roll back would be the only way to move something like this.

Good luck!

Ron

Well Cary Towing will do it for $150, less than I thought ... sorry Ron, no pictures for the xmas party.

I do wish I had a rollback though. That would be fun

_________________
Mike Whitney
whit32@gmail.com, 919-454-5445
V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1

$150 is a DEAL!! I didn't think you could get a car towed from there for that. But, I'll miss the pics!

Ron

Another question for those of you in the know:

What do y'all think I should do for a foundation/pad/base for this? As I said it's going behind my garage and right now it's just woodchip-covered dirt. Here are some options:

1. Just level the dirt and plop it down. It's on four 4x4 treated skids, and the floor decking and sill plate is treated.
2. Put down some (12?) deck-type concrete footer blocks
3. Build a cinder block "foundation" resting on dirt
4. Pour real concrete footers and use concrete footer blocks
5. Dump some gravel and level, place on gravel.
6. Pour a concrete pad (mucho expensive)

Opinions?

_________________
Mike Whitney
whit32@gmail.com, 919-454-5445
V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1

My first thought would be to throw down some gravel. Maybe3 to 6 inches deep for easy drainage under the building.

Concrete blocks could also work but I would think settling might be an issue later on.

Ron

i agree... gravel will not only allow for drainage, but spread out the load on the soil below and minimize settlement.

what's the soil like under where it will be placed? clay? sand?

if it is clay, i would make the gravel layer thicker, maybe digging a foot or two down into the ground

We've done this a couple times and never had a problem just using cinder blocks on top of dirt. We always dig the layer of topsoil up since it will compact a lot more than what's below and use cinder blocks and bricks and small amounts of digging to get it level. If you want to dig more and then use gravel to level then you can do that, too, but it isn't necessary for a building this size.

I'd definitely get the wood off the ground. My recommendation is cinderblocks and use four "pilings" with each piling at least two blocks side by side. Wood on the ground will rot, even if it is treated.


--Donnie

Use CMU's, either raw block or the precast post bases. Dig them down about 6" or so they will probably stay level for good.

Gravel would be nice under the shed but no to set it on. Not enough ventilation and it can shift too easily. Even with the little frost we get here it can heave and move gravel.

_________________
91 Jetta GLI STS/DSP 111
85 Porsche 944 ASP 11
http://www.blackforestindustries.com

Adam Ligon said


Then by all means, do not put the shed on the gravel.