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 Post subject: Tire Pressures
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 7:21 pm 
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The following was a recent post on the TSCC (Triad) forum.

Quote:
Setting Tire Pressures

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

OK,I've been meaning to post this since Danville,but with overloads at work and putting the Neon back together ,it took some time.
Here goes. First off I recommend starting your tire pressures at 45lbs.(Unless you have run these tires before or know someone w/a car similiar to yours running these tires and then you can start with their recommended pressures)
Next mark your sidewalls w/ shoepolish or chalk about 1inch onto the tread and up the sidewall.Take your First run and check the chalk,if it is still visible on the tread , let air out.If it has worn the chalk off the sidewall ,put air in.You want the wear to just start up the shoulder of the tire a 1/16 of an inch,more than that and you could damage the sidewalls.
Make your changes in 4-5lb increments untill you get close to the desired results.If you have access to a pyrometer or digital thermometer ,you can more accurately adjust these pressures.You want to take the tire temps immediately after a run( have a friend assist you).Take the temps 1inch in from each edge and in the center.You will have maximum grip when the temps are even all the way across the tire.If the edges are hotter,you need to add air .If the center is hotter, you need to drop air pressures.If the outside is hot and the inside cool you need to add camber(that comes later). Always adjust your front tires for maximum grip,then adjust the rears to your handling preference.
AS a general rule you add air to increase grip ,and reduce pressure to lessen grip but this is only true to a point.After you have reached maximum grip if you continue to add air the tire starts to balloon and loose grip again,conversely if you are already too high on pressures,reducing increases grip.
Many people try reducing pressures in the rears to make the car "free" or help it"rotate".While this does work,its been my experience that this causes "snap" oversteer, and is not very predictable
.I preffer to add air past the point of maximum grip,so that the tire just starts to balloon.This reduces traction but in my opinion seems to be more predictable.
Each tire and car is going to be different,and each driver is going to like a different "feel" and have his own opinion.This should get you close and keep you from trashing a new set of "EXPENSIVE" tires. The rest is just Trial and errror.
One more hint.When you come to a course with lots of grit or little grip, reduce the pressures in ALL tires by a couple of lbs.Dont upset the balance youve worked so hard to find.On grippier surfaces,increase the pressures of ALL tires by a couple of lbs.You would be surprised at how much more a tire will "rollover" on a good concrete surface.Add the air and save your sidewalls !!!!!
If I've missed anything I'm sure I'll hear about it.I hope I've helped a few of you out.This is just my experiences and its not written in stone.
OH YEAH !!! One more thing.Loose is fast!!! Its very uncomfortable the first time you feel the back end sliding through a turn,but this IS the fast set-up.You have to find that edge without going too far over it,so dont make the car completely neutral just because its comfortable,set the pressures so the car is just slightly "free".You WILL get used to it!!


I found it to be quite useful, but I would like some of you to comment on the highlighted section, because I have been doing just the opposite. That is if I want to make the backend a little "less loose" I have been dropping pressure in the rear tires slightly. Have I been moving it in the wrong direction?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 7:39 pm 
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I thought it was the way you have stated. I have always run a few pounds less in the rear on my C5. From what I have read all Corvette guys who autox or track their cars run a couple of lbs less in the rear.

Does FWD vs. RWD make a difference? I don't see how it would?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 7:42 pm 
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There is one optimal tire pressure for a given set of conditions, anything above or below will result in less grip.

I've gone both ways to adjust grip (higher and lower).

Chalk on the sidewalls is still valuable info, what does it tell you? Years ago I want as low as 17 psi in rear of the celica to keep it from spinning all the time. I know Jason M. has dropped the pressures in the 240 a bunch lately, each time getting more grip.

Scott


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:06 pm 
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scottjohnson wrote:
There is one optimal tire pressure for a given set of conditions, anything above or below will result in less grip.

I've gone both ways to adjust grip (higher and lower).

Chalk on the sidewalls is still valuable info, what does it tell you? Years ago I want as low as 17 psi in rear of the celica to keep it from spinning all the time. I know Jason M. has dropped the pressures in the 240 a bunch lately, each time getting more grip.

Scott


When my Celica was pushing like a dump truck at the DC ProSolo on the 17's, I dropped the front pressures to 19# hot in the front of the Celica. People thought we were nuts, but it worked.

Like Scott says, there's an optimal but no two setups are alike, regardless of how much you've replicated the same parts/alignment/etc.. That's why I always thought it was funny how people in ES with MR2's would lemming on pressures. I think Jim P was one of the people that bucked the trend a bit. - AB

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:12 pm 
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At sanford I dropped the pressure down to 22lbs cold front and rear. It seemed to work fairly well in terms of adding grip. Didn't help me stay off the cones though. :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:18 pm 
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Oh yeah, I guess it might be important to note that I have 225's on an 8" rim. If you're running 225's on a 6.5 or 7" rim, the lower pressures may not work so well.

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Last edited by Jason Mauldin on Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:24 pm 
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Rick,

You should run all four tires at 15 psi . . . in fact 15 psi total for the four tires would be even better. :D

Seriously: I tune balance (even in Stock) with things (including line and driving style) other than tire pressure . . . especially between runs. I've always found that for me the absolutely biggest variable in run time is the driver. Therefore, I leave the car alone so that I know that IT will react the same as I push harder. I've never felt after one or even two runs that I've gotten the most from the car so if I go faster on the next run how would I know if the improvement was the car or me? Especially with tires whose grip improves with heat. I TEST to find what front and rear tire pressures give the best grip and steering/transient response under typical conditions. For RWD my definition of best grip for the front is cornering grip with braking not "screwed up". For the rear my goal is also best cornering grip with acceleration grip not screwed up. Rear is tougher since sometimes more cornering grip will unload the inside rear tire more and make it seem like accel grip has been lost.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:37 pm 
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I'm suprised to see the suggestion to make changes in 4-5lb increments. At the first laurinburg points event I was 2lbs higher in the rear than I normally run and my car was too lose for my liking (awd and the front was unchanged). I had horrible runs and when I switched back at the next event I did much better. So, I noticed a significant change with just 2lbs.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 9:01 pm 
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I recomend picking up "How to make your car handle" by Fred Puhn. Its a bit dated in parts but tires are the FIRST thing he touches. Its also not tooooo technical for the most part, so its comprehendable by average Joe.

Like others have said, think of grip like a bell curve, anything above or below the peak of the curve will reduce grip.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 9:42 pm 
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Ryan Holton wrote:
I recomend picking up "How to make your car handle" by Fred Puhn. Its a bit dated in parts but tires are the FIRST thing he touches. Its also not tooooo technical for the most part, so its comprehendable by average Joe.

Like others have said, think of grip like a bell curve, anything above or below the peak of the curve will reduce grip.


Ryan,

That book was published about the time I got serious about autocrossing (1976) and it was one of two or three primary sources of info I used at the time. Good book.

FYI I skimmed a book in Borders recently by Don Alexander with a title something like High Performance Handling. Looked like a good book also. From my experience Don is a trustworthy source.

Anyway, the point I'm trying to make is that while there is just one optimum tire pressure for a given situation, actually FINDING that pressure in competition on different sites and courses with only a few runs and lots of other more significant variables is pretty difficult. That is why I focus on the primary variables I can control which happen to have the largest potential payoff. They are 1) How close I'm able to get the car to its limits and 2) The optimum line if there is a choice.

Keep in mind folks that in general a slightly better tire pressure (if you can find it) will only get you tenths. Not much help if you are seconds off the pace. "Better" driving on the next run can get you those seconds. Not hitting any cones helps too. :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 9:49 pm 
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One other "old guy hint": R tires (don't know about "almost R" as used in ST) frequently, if not always, get what I call "crispy" between events. Therefore the first run has the problem of both cold tires and crispy tires. Don't make ANY conclusions about grip, car setup, your driving, etc. from the first run at an event when R tires have a week or more since being run or driven on. Of course, if they also have rubber pickup then they are a real piece of . . . .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 11:57 pm 
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Jason Mauldin wrote:
At sanford I dropped the pressure down to 22lbs cold front and rear. It seemed to work fairly well in terms of adding grip. Didn't help me stay off the cones though. :)


That's consistent with what I started seeing on the red BMW with 225 victoracers on 8" wheels and good camber. The lower I went the better grip seemed to be, but breakaway became more dramatic. I didn't go quite that low though!!! Only made it down to 30psi hot.

I think this trend might be limited to cars with good (negative) camber -- the flex at lower pressures allows the tire to conform better to the surface?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 7:12 am 
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Regarding lowering pressures at the Sanford Rally Cross site :(
Keep in mind that the traction there seems to change significantly during the day with no changes to the car. It would seem that if you haven't already done so that back to back testing under the same conditions are in order.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 7:32 am 
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The issue I was running into was that the tires were coming off of course with no heat in them. I was already at 30psi and it was suggested to me to make a drastic change in air pressure between runs. I did that and it worked out. At grippier surfaces such as Laurinburg I run higher pressures.

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