Any suggestions for a NO Start 91" 1.6 Miata???

Keith Roberts · **Joined:** Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:14 pm **Posts:** 31

Well instead of AutoX'ing NCR in Wilmington last Saturday, I decided to change the Clutch & RMS in the Miata. After the R&R was done, now the engine won't start. I'm sure it's self inflicted, but if you have any idea's let me know!

BACKROUND

- disconnected and removed the CAS, Coil Pack, and a single wire connection (don't know what it's for)

- disconnected the Heater hoses

COMPLETED

- replaced RMS

- replaced friction plate and pressure plate

- reinstalled the transmission, drive shaft and exhaust

- While car was still on Jack Stands started car, and at idle speed (1st symptom idle speed was about 300rpm, not the usual 800. No roughness so I kept going) put it into first gear. No problems, clutch disengaged/engage smoothly no noise, vibration. Rear wheels spinning. Shifted to second gear. Again no problems.

- sealed pinhole exhaust leak

- replaced lost transmission lube

- dropped rear of the car to replace lost coolant (want the radiator high to get any air bubbles out)

- let the car idle for 10 minutes, again it idled smoothly and still 300 rpm.

- dropped the car to the ground, it fired, ran slow and rough, gave is a little gas and then died, now it wont fire!!!!!

- 1/4 tank of gas, engine cranks, pulled spark plug and it was wet with gas, checked the electrical plugs were still connected.

- called it a day

TODAY's GAME PLAN

- Disconnect the battery for an ECU reset

- check for pinched wires between the bell housing and engine block

- research how to troubleshooting the Coil Pack and CAS.

thanks Keith

steve remchak · **Posted:** Wed Apr 05, 2017 10:08 am

Cam position sensor?

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Wed Apr 05, 2017 10:14 am

Why did you remove the CAS? Was the O-ring leaking? Did you mark it's position to the head before removal?

Keith Roberts · **Joined:** Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:14 pm **Posts:** 31

I had put 2 reference marks on the CAS for 10 and 12 tdc.
They got misaligned. after correcting it fired right up.

keith

Keith Roberts · **Joined:** Wed Sep 17, 2014 12:14 pm **Posts:** 31

Vincent Keene wrote:

Why did you remove the CAS? Was the O-ring leaking? Did you mark it's position to the head before removal?

I reviewed the write for Clutch replacement on the miata.net forum and one of suggestions was to remove the CAS for clearance, that along with the heater hoses. Turns out neither needed to done.

thanks for the help!

keith

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Wed Apr 05, 2017 11:02 am

Keith Roberts wrote:

Vincent Keene wrote:

Why did you remove the CAS? Was the O-ring leaking? Did you mark it's position to the head before removal?

I reviewed the write for Clutch replacement on the miata.net forum and one of suggestions was to remove the CAS for clearance, that along with the heater hoses. Turns out neither needed to done.

thanks for the help!

keith

While there is lots of useful information on Miata.net, some of those guys are super anal. When you read the write-ups on t-belt replacement, some make it sound like rocket science and brain surgery combined. In my experience, the t-belt job on the NA could not have been easier, and it was my very first t-belt job.

Andrew Jonell · **Joined:** Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:43 pm **Posts:** 1350

Make sure that your base timing is still right.

Glad you got it worked out!

Jordan Normark · **Posted:** Wed Apr 05, 2017 4:13 pm

Glad you figured it out. My guess was CAS connector for what it's worth, very unlikely it would actually idle at 300 rpm, more likely a poor connection for the tach signal/CAS connection.

THSCC Forums

Any suggestions for a NO Start 91" 1.6 Miata???

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