Anybody seen brake pads do this to a rotor before?

Chad Culbertson · **Posted:** Wed Sep 02, 2015 7:43 pm

Thought my rotors were warped but I had noticed this line in the rotors and suspect its probably causing the wheel shake under breaking.

RickyBeam · **Posted:** Wed Sep 02, 2015 8:21 pm

Yeah. That'd do it. I assume that's pad material and not a dent/rust. You could "resurface" it back into a sort-of normal usability. But with the cheapness of most standard rotors, just get a new one.

(read: fine wire brush, then re-bed your brakes.)

Chad Culbertson · **Posted:** Wed Sep 02, 2015 9:58 pm

RickyBeam wrote:

Yeah. That'd do it. I assume that's pad material and not a dent/rust. You could "resurface" it back into a sort-of normal usability. But with the cheapness of most standard rotors, just get a new one.

(read: fine wire brush, then re-bed your brakes.)

I have new rotors already since I assumed they were warped.

It is indeed pad material, there is another line like this the width of the pad around.

I'm guessing maybe the pads just got over heated at the last Danville event with 2 drivers and I suspect when it got park between runs at some point some pads material transferred or something. That's my best guess anyway, I might look into some different pads if this is the case. The pads are StopTech Street Performance pads, they've been fine for street and autocross, they don't provide a lot of torque though, so they take a good amount of pedal pressure.

I would run the HP+ pads I have but they are crazy noisy on the street and make a lot of dust lol.

These rotors are about done anyway, they had 53k miles on them and have pretty good sized ridges on the inside and outside anyway.

I picked up some C-TEK rotors for $42 each, they'll be going on when I swap the DTC70s and 60s on for VIR next weekend. I just did fronts since I don't think the rears I will notice so much and they have plenty of life left.

RickyBeam · **Posted:** Thu Sep 03, 2015 12:25 am

The pads staying in contact while hot would do that. But I'd expect it to be less pretty (i.e. not in a perfect outline of the pad.)

Stephen Westerfield · **Posted:** Thu Sep 03, 2015 10:09 pm

Have you run your HP+'s on those same rotors? if so, I'd suspect it came from them. You really need dedicated rotors for any Hawk pads. They don't play nice with other non-Hawk pads on the same rotors.

Chad Culbertson · **Posted:** Thu Sep 03, 2015 10:53 pm

I was running the HP+ at VIR-N this year, and promptly over heated them, lol.

The rotors had actually been fine though until recently, so the material came from the StopTechs for sure. Usually my plan is to let the track pads stay on for a little bit of street driving and essentially scrape off any pad material and then I re-bed in the stop techs, so far it's worked fairly well. Although the passenger front was never quite the same noise wise after I smeared HP+ material on it, but there was no shaking after I drove the HP+ on the street for awhile and then re-bedded the stop techs in.

Either way I guess it's not an issue since I have new front rotors ready to go on with the DTCs for next weekend anyway. Not sure what my plan will be when switching back from the DTCs though.

Stephen Westerfield · **Posted:** Fri Sep 04, 2015 12:23 pm

Chad Culbertson wrote:

Either way I guess it's not an issue since I have new front rotors ready to go on with the DTCs for next weekend anyway. Not sure what my plan will be when switching back from the DTCs though.

Go get the pictured rotors turned down to use with your street pads.

Chad Culbertson · **Posted:** Fri Sep 04, 2015 1:16 pm

These rotors might not actually have enough life left to turn them, but they might. Rotors are cheap enough I might just wind up with a second set, the only downside to having different rotors is having to buy new caliper bolts, although I did just red loc-tite them last time, technically they're supposed to be torque to yield, I just don't torque them the extra 90 degrees they call for.

RickyBeam · **Posted:** Fri Sep 04, 2015 5:12 pm

Chad Culbertson wrote:

having to buy new caliper bolts

Heh. a) ignore the "replace everytime" line from the manual. (I've reused the VW's bolts MANY times.) b) use better bolts. I'd say use "AN" bolts (aircraft grade) but they won't be threaded long enough.

(Hint: Visit Wilder's @ 2406 Alwin Ct. If they can't hook you up, it doesn't exist.)

Chad Culbertson · **Posted:** Fri Sep 04, 2015 6:04 pm

Plenty of Camaro guys re-use them too, That said, mine have only been removed once and i'll likely be re-using them again since I don't have any new ones, lol.

I'll slap some red loctite on them again just to ensure they won't try to loosen up, I used it earlier this year and they been through a HPDE and plenty of autocrosses.

As far as these old rotors, I wasn't planning on swapping the rears because they have plenty of life, but I might hit the old fronts with some sand paper and keep them with the street pads. I might have to find some better street/autox pads though if this continues to be a problem with these, I would like something with a bit more friction too.

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Anybody seen brake pads do this to a rotor before?

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