THSCC Forums

I know this is a Miata thread, but I use that process of marking the old belt and transferring to the new whenever I do a timing belt on a Honda. It works great.

Richard

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Richard Casto
1972 Porsche 914
2013 Honda Fit Sport
2015 Honda Fit EX
http://motorsport.zyyz.com
Money can't buy happiness, but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than a Kia.

TBK and WPK = Timing belt kit and Water pump kit? If so good. Also, unless the Timing Belt Kit comes with it, you will want to add idler and tensioner pulleys to that list. They may not be making noise yet, but they will be soon if not replaced. Out of curiosity, what year is the car?

I never mark anything when replacing the belt. Just line up the marks before removing the old belt, the cams will move a little when you remove the gears to replace the seals, but keep a boxed end 14mm wrench on hand once you are ready to install the new belt. Snap a picture of the orientation for the cam gears before removing the old belt if you are unsure. For the early cars and IIRC the 01+ cars use the same pulley for both intake and exhaust. Going off my memory here, so someone correct me if I am wrong but, the (I) lines up with the intake cam dowel on the intake cam shaft and the (E) with the dowel on the exhaust cam. You will use the (E) mark on the intake cam gear to align with the mark on the intake side and the (I) mark on the exhaust cam gear to align with the mark on the exhaust side. Seems backwards, but it will make sense once you are in there.

To install the new belt, lock the tensioner pulley bolt down in the full slack position (spring tight) (14mm) start from the crank noting that the marks on the crank gear and water pump housing (12 o'clock position, TDC) are lined up. Work the belt around the idler pulley (left side pulley) keeping moderate tension on the belt, enough to keep it tight, but not enough to move the crank. Check alignment of intake cam and use other hand as necessary (with 14mm boxed end wrench) to maintain alignment as you work the belt around the cogs of the intake cam gear. Maintaining moderate tension on the belt, move boxed end wrench to exhaust cam gear (also 14mm) maintain alignment of exhaust cam gear while working the moderately tensioned belt around exhaust cam gear. While maintaining tension on the belt, move boxed end wrench to tensioner bolt and loosen it until the tensioner is pushing against the belt (14mm (see the trend thanks Mazda engineers!)). Rotate crankshaft 1 7/8 turns so the mark on the crank gear lines up with the mark to the left of TDC mark on the water pump housing around the 10 o'clock position. Tighten tensioner bolt, rotate crankshaft and recheck alignment. All of this takes around a minute, maybe two.

I typed this out not sound cocky, but in hopes of saving you some of the hours it took me to learn this technique and to reassure you that it is not a very difficult job

Post up here if you have any questions during the job and good luck!

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92 Miata 1.9L naturally aspirated. SSM 21

Or leave it resting on the frame if its long enough... just dont forget and leave it attached when you area ready to leave.

Agreed about the tool. I lost my timing and had to do it by hand. The marks on mine are not good from the factory. They were off by a half tooth or something like that. It took a try or two, but I got it set right eventually.

Takes longer than that for me to process what I am reading, lol.

It is a 2003, and yes those are timing belt and water pump kits. They come with the gaskets, o-rings, tensioners, etc, and if I'm lucky maybe a sticker or two.

Took Andrew's advise and sprung for a new crank bolt and woodruff key. Read some horrible stories about failed woodruffs on miataturbo.net and quickly placed the order. Couldn't stomach the $100+ for a new damper, hopefully I won't need it. Radiator hoses seem to be in good shape, but I think I can get those locally if I change my mind.

Getting some great info. I appreciate all the support.

I am not as familiar with the 01+ NB's due to the VVT changes on the intake cam. Andrew and Milko can help you with the specifics of working with that.

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92 Miata 1.9L naturally aspirated. SSM 21

I tackled this job a couple of years ago on my '02 SE. I have nowhere near the mechanical expertise that the others on this thread have, but take heart. I found it to be a straightforward project.

I have Keith Tanner's Performance Projects book that came in very handy. If you're coming to NCCAR this weekend, I'll loan you my dog-eared copy.

I took my time, labeled and bagged everything I took off, and took a series of pictures along the way in case I got tangled up putting it all back together. It helps if you have time to just walk away when things get hairy.

The basic parts came from Flyin Miata. Their tech line is excellent. They've patiently walked me through a few projects when I've been stuck.

I didn't use any special tools other than a long breaker bar with a pipe extension to get the crank bolt off. I didn't have the courage to wedge the bar and crank the engine!

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2015 VW GTI
2002 SE Miata
2016 Subaru Outback
2007 Saab 9-3 (dearly departed)
2007 Yamaha FZ6
Fuji Carbon Team Pro
Trek Fuel EX 8 29

As far as the VVT on the intake cam goes, the Torx screws are fairly soft so be careful to use the right bit.

And, be very careful not to disassemble the VVT by mistake when removing the cam. It is nearly impossible to get back together correctly. Ask me how I know...

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2015 VW GTI
2002 SE Miata
2016 Subaru Outback
2007 Saab 9-3 (dearly departed)
2007 Yamaha FZ6
Fuji Carbon Team Pro
Trek Fuel EX 8 29

I haven't replaced the cam seals (they're probably weeping a bit) or crank seals before. It seems to be fairly straight forward, though.

Timing the VVT motor is kind of a pain since the timing marks on the intake cam leaves a lot to be desired.

Hey!!!!!!

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BenchWarmer Motorsports

another one of those damn LeMons heads

just another Chump

we are an Autocross Club Dammit............

Just don't do this like I did.


(That notch in the cam gear should point at bulge on the stamped steel plate)

That's only like 6 degrees or so, no big deal

The only real challenge with seals is getting the old ones out. The best way I have found is to carefully tap a small, sharp flat screwdriver through the body of the seal and work it out that way. Whatever you do, you don't want to scrape or nick the sealing (rotating) surface of the crank or camshaft. I frequently learn the hard way, but at least I learn.

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92 Miata 1.9L naturally aspirated. SSM 21

Got my last box of parts in last night.

Looking at the calendar, I won't have time to do this before the next autocross.
My wife works every weekend and I have a 2 year old to watch. Looking for a weekend her grandparents can watch her.
I will probably end up taking it apart slowly during the week, when I get off work, and then button it up early on a Saturday.

I will post back when I have a date nailed down. Hopefully someone will be free to help me double check everything before I close it up.
Waiting for the autocross dates to be posted too.

They're posted in the schedule thread, just go check the second page, the first post just didn't get updated.

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2017 Autocross Chief of Tech

2000 E Street Miata
2015 Focus SE EcoBoost 6 speed
2015 Fiesta ST (Wife's ride)
2012 Yamaha FZ1 sorta crotch rocket? All I know is 150HP and 487 lbs is fun!

Long over-due update. I have all the tools and all the parts.
I put the Miata in the garage on ramps last night.

Going to start pulling it apart today and tomorrow after work.
Hopefully buttoning it up Saturday morning.

Anyone willing to drop by and help will be rewarded with food/drink.
PM me for an address and a time I will be home.