rear end rebuild

Cash Davidson · **Posted:** Tue Apr 07, 2015 11:39 am

I have never done this type of rear, but every 9" Ford I've done, I've used a crush sleeve eliminator. The crush sleeve is one and done. The eliminator kit allows you to take it apart and change the shims to adjust preload. I assume there is a similar kit available for your rearend.

Good luck,
Cash

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Tue Apr 07, 2015 12:22 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

Raising the white flag and giving up, which I hate to do. For whatever reason, I just can't get the roar out of this rear end. New pinon bearings, ring and pinon, crush washer and nut. Pinon preload is set to 20 in/lb, with in spec and 9 thousandth back lash, with in spec, the gear paint shows good engagement. I'm at a loss. It's time to seek professional help. Hate to spend the money, but this needs to be setup right.

Ron - I assume you've eliminated all the other possible noise sources such as tires, axle bearings, and ???. What about a bent or otherwise "bad" rear end assembly?

FYI I live very close to East Coast Gear Supply so let me know if you need a ride back home from dropping the car off. We might be able to work something out that avoids rush hour traffic since I'm usually free in the mornings and very early afternoons.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Tue Apr 07, 2015 12:37 pm

DickRasmussen wrote:

Ron - I assume you've eliminated all the other possible noise sources such as tires, axle bearings, and ???. What about a bent or otherwise "bad" rear end assembly?

FYI I live very close to East Coast Gear Supply so let me know if you need a ride back home from dropping the car off. We might be able to work something out that avoids rush hour traffic since I'm usually free in the mornings and very early afternoons.

Ron? lol.... Dick, I've had every bearing in the rearend replaced and I still have the noise. I'm simply tired of messing w/ this, so I'm willing to spend even more money to make this right. I don't know why this is so difficult to setup, we've done everything right that I'm aware of, but something is amiss or misaligned. I really don't want to spend the money, but it seems money is the only fix. I can't find a replacement rearend w/ the 3.73 gear ratio, so I'll get this one fixed.

Called newtakeoff.com and they don't have any. As a matter of fact they stated that the 3.73 rearends are starting to be hoarded for whatever reason. There are no local breaker yards that have any. Jeremy was able to price one from FLA for 1200, but I don't know the mileage or the impact it took, so that's not a good option either. Rebuild it is looking like my only option. I think I'm to the point of dropping in a torsen diff and be done w/ everything. One and done...

Appreciate the offer for the ride, but I'll work this out w/ the wife...

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Tue Apr 07, 2015 12:39 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

I think I'm to the point of dropping in a torsen diff and be done w/ everything.

I approve this option. :thumbsup:

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Tue Apr 07, 2015 12:44 pm

Cash Davidson wrote:

I have never done this type of rear, but every 9" Ford I've done, I've used a crush sleeve eliminator. The crush sleeve is one and done. The eliminator kit allows you to take it apart and change the shims to adjust preload. I assume there is a similar kit available for your rearend.

Good luck,
Cash

never messed w/ a 9" ford rear, but I did a quick look on youtube and the 9" and 8.8" are worlds apart. I don't see how there could be an eliminator kit for the 8.8 crush washer based on what I've dealt w/, but I've been know to be wrong before.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Tue Apr 07, 2015 1:03 pm

Ron - My limited experience so far with the oem Torsen in the 2015 is "wow" but that may be simply because I "know" it is better than the Traction-Loc. Plus I really like the fact that diff clutch condition is no longer a concern! Have you picked a gear ratio yet?

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Tue Apr 07, 2015 5:07 pm

drove out this afternoon and talked w/ east coast gears. Seems to be a good group of guys. Had a tech ride w/ me. I watched his eyebrows raise up as we went on a test drive. That pretty much summed it up right there....

So, the car goes into the shop Tue evening and will be done by Wed evening. New ring and pinon along w/ new bearings, new detroit locker (torsen) and new carrier bearings. Price seems fair for the work. Like I said, hate to spend the money, but it's gotta be fixed right. Lesson learned....

Cash Davidson · **Posted:** Tue Apr 07, 2015 5:26 pm

You'll like that Detroit TruTrac. I got one for the Excursion - sweet!

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Tue Apr 07, 2015 6:59 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

drove out this afternoon and talked w/ east coast gears. Seems to be a good group of guys. Had a tech ride w/ me. I watched his eyebrows raise up as we went on a test drive. That pretty much summed it up right there....

So, the car goes into the shop Tue evening and will be done by Wed evening. New ring and pinon along w/ new bearings, new detroit locker (torsen) and new carrier bearings. Price seems fair for the work. Like I said, hate to spend the money, but it's gotta be fixed right. Lesson learned....

I'm sure you mean the Detroit True-Trac torsen type versus the actual Detroit Locker which is not street friendly. :-)

Will you stay with the same ratio (whatever that is)?

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Tue Apr 07, 2015 10:56 pm

DickRasmussen wrote:

I'm sure you mean the Detroit True-Trac torsen type versus the actual Detroit Locker which is not street friendly. :-)

Will you stay with the same ratio (whatever that is)?

True trac and keeping the 3.73 ratio...

Chad Culbertson · **Posted:** Wed Apr 08, 2015 3:11 pm

Differentials is the one thing i've never attempted, I've rebuilt a 700R4 automatic transmission before and motors, but I just lack the tools and expertise for a differential. I've always decided I was going to let the experts do that for me.

I do have some wine at a neutral throttle in the Camaro around 50mph, it goes away when you coast or under throttle. Just buying my time until it needs something done, it may easily go 200k miles though and never need anything. I would like to go with a Torsen though, the clutch type diff doesn't seem to work so hot, anytime an inside tire gets light from going in/out of drives or real quick turns, especially with the heavier sway bar in the back now the inside tire likes to spin easily.

Andrew Jonell · **Joined:** Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:43 pm **Posts:** 1350

You'll still get inside tire spin with a Torsen. All about managing what you have unless if you want to spend the big bucks and time developing something like an OS Giken equivalent.

Chad Culbertson · **Posted:** Wed Apr 08, 2015 4:52 pm

Andrew Jonell wrote:

You'll still get inside tire spin with a Torsen. All about managing what you have unless if you want to spend the big bucks and time developing something like an OS Giken equivalent.

I won't have to worry about it wearing the clutches out at least though.

Jason Mauldin · **Posted:** Wed Apr 08, 2015 8:21 pm

Chad, you might try running a larger front bar and reducing the size of the rear bar.

Chad Culbertson · **Posted:** Wed Apr 08, 2015 10:05 pm

Jason Mauldin wrote:

Chad, you might try running a larger front bar and reducing the size of the rear bar.

I just installed a 5mm bigger bar in the back which is also mounted outboard of the rear springs vs inboard. The Camaro is a terrible understeering car stock, especially the 2010-2011 models, the last thing they need is a larger front bar and smaller back. The understeer is pretty much gone now, I think the only time I experience the inside wheel spin is times when the car is cocked up on opposite corners. It wasn't an issue at VIR or anything this weekend. It's probably not really an issue but just something I noticed with the bigger and more efficient rear sway bar making it more noticeable on areas where opposite corners get lifted. The Camaro chassis is pretty stiff too so it's not hard to lift corners in driveways, all of this was only noticed in street driving anyway, not where it matters.

I also think the stability control is a bit confused by the cars new found handling characteristics, stabilitrak in competitive mode seemed to interfere where I wouldn't have expected it to on track. Usually it's pretty lax but this weekend it kicked in a couple times and the car wasn't unstable at all. I suppose it's possible that it was tuned specifically to how the car handled from the factory but not it handles much much better, so it freaks out a bit. Oh well, that's why it gets turned off for autocross, I wasn't brave enough to disable it on track completely, I left it in competitive mode.

Anyway, back on topic, lol.

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rear end rebuild

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