track pads

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Jul 21, 2014 8:21 pm

Well, it's time for that age old question again. Which pads do I need to use for the track event at VIR. Just to add a curve ball, Jordan will be driving the mustang in green group. Although I doubt he'll be stabbing the brakes as hard as I do, I need a set of pads that's going to take the abuse of a long weekend and 2 drivers. I know these change from year to year in regard to what's the hot setup.

Do I also need to change out my rotors? Hadn't planned on it, but if I need to I'll pick up a set of used ones...

Do we have anyone that's a club sponsor that I can buy these thru?

Thanks for the feedback...

RobLupella · **Posted:** Mon Jul 21, 2014 9:38 pm

I would bring an extra set of rotors. Is it worth saving $150 and missing sessions because you have to run into town and hope Advance Auto has rotors in stock?

I need to replace mine as I have some spidercracks and some that are a bit worse before I take it on track.

Jason Tower · **Joined:** Wed Jun 11, 2008 3:31 pm **Posts:** 1173

fresh set of generic rotors
pfc08 brake pads
ate200 fluid

done.

Arthur McDonald · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 1:54 am **Posts:** 2052

RobLupella wrote:

I would bring an extra set of rotors. Is it worth saving $150 and missing sessions because you have to run into town and hope Advance Auto has rotors in stock?

I need to replace mine as I have some spidercracks and some that are a bit worse before I take it on track.

At least you don't have to deal with wheel bearings when swapping rotors.. "now did I adjust the bearings correctly? I'm only going to be going 130 on the approach to turn 6.." (Glad that I carried an extra pair of rotors on that trip to Mid-Ohio, and had Woody Middleton there to supervise the procedure).

Check this price for nearly-new OEM rotors: http://www.newtakeoff.com/mustang_gt_fr ... _pair.aspx

Andrew Jonell · **Joined:** Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:43 pm **Posts:** 1350

I drank the Hawk kool-aid:
Use HT-10s if you kind of like your wheels.
Use DTC-60s if you want to destroy them.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2014 8:44 am

Arthur McDonald wrote:

RobLupella wrote:

I would bring an extra set of rotors. Is it worth saving $150 and missing sessions because you have to run into town and hope Advance Auto has rotors in stock?

I need to replace mine as I have some spidercracks and some that are a bit worse before I take it on track.

At least you don't have to deal with wheel bearings when swapping rotors.. "now did I adjust the bearings correctly? I'm only going to be going 130 on the approach to turn 6.." (Glad that I carried an extra pair of rotors on that trip to Mid-Ohio, and had Woody Middleton there to supervise the procedure).

Check this price for nearly-new OEM rotors: http://www.newtakeoff.com/mustang_gt_fr ... _pair.aspx

Thanks for the info Art. I looked at the new take off stuff. Problem is I'm now running the larger 2011+ front brakes and rotors, so I'm looking for those at the moment.

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2014 10:45 am

With brake pads as always opinions vary. I've run Hawk DTC-70s, DTC-60's, HT-10's and Blues on my Mustang. IMO, the Blues work just as well as the DTC-70's and cost a LOT less. The dust is corrosive, but only if you leave it on the wheels and let it get wet and then dry.

FYI, with ducting I now have the pad life is increased at least 1.5 and closer to 2X as without.

For rotors, the Motorcraft take-offs or Brembo blanks is what I would use.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2014 11:53 am

Vincent Keene wrote:

The dust is corrosive, but only if you leave it on the wheels and let it get wet and then dry.

What if the mixture of rain/dry conditions during the event or even during a heat results in dry then wet then dry?

Roger McDaniels · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2014 1:04 pm

We've been using Carbotech AX-6's and XP-8's for a while now, mostly for the modulation characteristics. The AX-6's were fine for a track day, but wouldn't stand up to a 24-hour race. We have also used Hawk Blues, which are cheap and last forever, but we like the Carbotech pads a lot better.

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2014 1:24 pm

DickRasmussen wrote:

Vincent Keene wrote:

The dust is corrosive, but only if you leave it on the wheels and let it get wet and then dry.

What if the mixture of rain/dry conditions during the event or even during a heat results in dry then wet then dry?

Then you'd better clean your wheels ASAP or they are screwed, but I don't drive in the rain or use my nice street wheels on track, so it doesn't affect me.

Scott Johnson · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2014 1:29 pm

Andrew Jonell wrote:

I drank the Hawk kool-aid:
Use HT-10s if you kind of like your wheels.
Use DTC-60s if you want to destroy them.

I've had no issues with DTC-60 dust on my wheels. I do wash the car frequently. Maybe once it was a little stubborn (after getting wet), but some Sonax Full Effect made everything better.

Andrew Jonell · **Joined:** Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:43 pm **Posts:** 1350

Vincent Keene wrote:

Then you'd better clean your wheels ASAP or they are screwed, but I don't drive in the rain or use my nice street wheels on track, so it doesn't affect me.

I know that Rodney is pretty quick and that the Mustang is a bigger car, so personally I'd find some cheap wheels and run those with a race pad (DTC-60s, etc).

The AX6s and XP8s will basically melt off of the backing plate because I think the S197 is about double the weight of the Duff Civic. The last thing I'd want is to go for the brake in T1 or T14 and feel the pedal sink to the floor. Brakes are a safety item.

RobLupella · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2014 9:21 pm

Andrew Jonell wrote:

Vincent Keene wrote:

Then you'd better clean your wheels ASAP or they are screwed, but I don't drive in the rain or use my nice street wheels on track, so it doesn't affect me.

I know that Rodney is pretty quick and that the Mustang is a bigger car, so personally I'd find some cheap wheels and run those with a race pad (DTC-60s, etc).

The AX6s and XP8s will basically melt off of the backing plate because I think the S197 is about double the weight of the Duff Civic. The last thing I'd want is to go for the brake in T1 or T14 and feel the pedal sink to the floor. Brakes are a safety item.

I haven't had problems with Carbotechs melting on either car. I like their modulation much better than the Hawk's

Roger McDaniels · **Posted:** Tue Jul 22, 2014 10:00 pm

The other question that we probably should have asked is what tires will you be using? I generally don't use serious racing pads with street tires because it's harder to threshold brake with too much friction and not enough traction. I also don't have ABS.

Andrew Jonell · **Joined:** Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:43 pm **Posts:** 1350

RobLupella wrote:

I haven't had problems with Carbotechs melting on either car. I like their modulation much better than the Hawk's

You're using AX6s on the Z06?

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