need help replacing mazda clutch

Neal Harrington · **Joined:** Thu Sep 04, 2003 4:29 pm **Posts:** 106

Let me join the litany to attempt to make you feel better. Many years ago, I swapped a 4-speed transaxle into a 3-speed Corvair. Unfortunately, I did not realize that the (removable) clutch input shaft for the 3-speed was several inches shorter than the one for the 4-speed. After finishing the entire job, I started the engine and tried to move the car. Naturally, nothing happened. After much research, I determined that the transmission splines were not engaged and had to do the entire job again with the 4-speed shaft.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Fri Sep 06, 2013 6:05 pm

Adding to the "misery loves company" stories:

The first time I rebuilt the Renault transaxle in my 74 Lotus Europa I followed the shop manual instructions and pictures to the letter. Got it back in the car, fired up the newly rebuilt (by me) engine for the first time and did the usual initial break in stuff. Finally backed the car out of the garage . . . for about 3 car lengths and then the engine stalled in gear. Simply would not move with the wheels on the ground even in neutral. Kelly and I lifted the rear with my 1 1/4 ton floor jack and we somehow managed to push it up a slope into the garage (this was in California). Turns out there was ONE slightly asymmetrical piece in the transmission that would fit two ways . . . one "right" and one "WRONG" and you had to trial fit the parts VERY carefully to figure out which way was correct . . . with NO hint in the manual how important. The associated parts were galled. I was already way into debt on the project. Fortunately the racing shop that had done the valve job was also working with a road racer who was willing to sell the stock gear ratio I needed and the shop was able to clean up the other damaged part sufficiently . . . with the recommendation to always run Redline gear oil for extra protection.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Fri Sep 06, 2013 6:13 pm

At least it was your mistake. Redoing work you paid someone else to do is particularly frustrating. Been there, done that . . . more than once . . . :roll:

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:56 am

I have all the bolts out and have the case cracked open, but can't get it apart, something is binding and I don't want to force it open. In looking at the inside w/ a flashlight, I see a big washer loose in the case. I've bought a Haynes manual for help, worthless. Searched the web and can't find anything related to actually taking the transmission case apart. Man, I've done a great job here :mrgreen:

seeking professional help next week....

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Sun Sep 08, 2013 1:14 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

I have all the bolts out and have the case cracked open, but can't get it apart, something is binding and I don't want to force it open. In looking at the inside w/ a flashlight, I see a big washer loose in the case. I've bought a Haynes manual for help, worthless. Searched the web and can't find anything related to actually taking the transmission case apart. Man, I've done a great job here :mrgreen:

seeking professional help next week....

You might find a useful hint in a Honda Civic tutorial like this one:

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2443459

Even if you do reassembly is likely to be a real puzzle so actually taking it to a pro is probably best.

Be sure to get some hints on how to install it and make sure the pilot bearing is OK . . . :wink:

There can be two steps to the insertion: Input shaft splines to clutch spline and then input shaft nose into pilot bearing. Both need precise alignment to the block. The splines may need input shaft rotation by rotating both output shafts with the trans in gear. "Easy" with a car where the output shafts are external and well secured.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Sun Sep 08, 2013 1:19 pm

FYI if you take it to a pro it might be a really good idea to have him replace any worn stuff like synros and bearings. You don't EVER want to service that transmission again obviously.

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Sun Sep 08, 2013 2:24 pm

Rodney,

* Try to find a PDF copy of the factory manual. If you can't find one of those for free, look into something like a Helms manual. I think they offer both a subscription service and maybe the ability to purchase one outright.

http://www.helminc.com/helm/homepage.asp?r=

I rebuilt my first manual transmission decades ago via a Haynes manual, but it is tough and transmissions are more complicated today.

* Check, check and triple check for hidden bolts/nuts.

* Look for places cast into the casing to allow for you to tap with a small hammer or drift to help separate

* Don't force anything. But it might just be stubborn sealant.

* I rebuild old Porsche transmissions as a side business. I haven't taken apart any modern transmissions other than the automatic on the Odyssey. They are generally not rocket science to rebuild. So you can do it. Feel free to PM me if you need a second set of hands/eyes. I probably could drop by and help if you want.

Richard

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Sun Sep 08, 2013 2:32 pm

Thanks for the offer to help Richard, but I'm to the point I'm just going to take it over to Rex's next week and fork over the money. To Dick's suggestion on the internals, I'll leave that up to Rex well to determine. This whole thing has gone WELL past my initial scope of wanting to save some money.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Sun Sep 08, 2013 3:43 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

This whole thing has gone WELL past my initial scope of wanting to save some money.

Does that include buying the car in the first place as an "intended" replacement for the Bullitt?

Bummer in any case!

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Sun Sep 08, 2013 4:32 pm

When it comes to buying cars, I have no remorse. While I still have the bullitt and it's a fun car, it ain't no bimmer. Starting to get the bug for one of those too expensive cars again. Sorta looking for a 335is, but those are a bit out of my price range right now. There's always something out there that I want, hence my "Bruce" post. The mazda is a fun car and I don't mind working on it. I DO mind when do stupid sh!t that costs me time and money.

Andrew Jonell · **Joined:** Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:43 pm **Posts:** 1350

I would stay away from the 335is because BMW is on their 6th or 7th redesign of the fuel pump.

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 7:14 am

Andrew Jonell wrote:

I would stay away from the 335is because BMW is on their 6th or 7th redesign of the fuel pump.

How sad is that? My Z-24 is 14 years old with 240,00 miles and the original fuel pump works just fine.

I was was told this weekend that even the great Dave Davis says not to buy any BMW newer than an E46...unless it's under warranty.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 7:41 am

Vincent Keene wrote:

Andrew Jonell wrote:

I would stay away from the 335is because BMW is on their 6th or 7th redesign of the fuel pump.

How sad is that? My Z-24 is 14 years old with 240,00 miles and the original fuel pump works just fine.

I was was told this weekend that even the great Dave Davis says not to buy any BMW newer than an E46...unless it's under warranty.

There's probably some truth to that statement....

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 8:54 am

RodneyWright wrote:

When it comes to buying cars, I have no remorse. While I still have the bullitt and it's a fun car, it ain't no bimmer. Starting to get the bug for one of those too expensive cars again. Sorta looking for a 335is, but those are a bit out of my price range right now. There's always something out there that I want, hence my "Bruce" post. The mazda is a fun car and I don't mind working on it. I DO mind when do stupid sh!t that costs me time and money.

Rodney,

Have you considered getting something quite a bit older, but in very good condition? Basically something from an era that it was easy and fun to work on. Look at what many people are putting on their Bruce lists... More old than new. Any car has places to make mistakes, but as I was pulling the transmission out of my Odyssey, I was thinking how easy it is to pull the transmission (heck the entire transmission and engine) out of a Porsche 914. Once I get the car jacked up, I am able to drop the entire engine and transmission in about an hour. Maybe quicker with practice. That includes leaving the rear suspension in place. I look at even something like my new Honda Fit and think it has got to be an absolute pain in the ass to just change the sparkplugs or adjust the valves!

Richard

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 10:39 am

RodneyWright wrote:

While I still have the bullitt and it's a fun car, it ain't no bimmer.

You can read that statement two ways. I guess you know which way I'm reading it.

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