need help replacing mazda clutch

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Sun Aug 25, 2013 6:59 pm

At the last event down in Cherry Point the clutch started slipping on the 3, so I've decided to tackle this one myself. I have the clutch kit and associated parts and I have the air box and battery box removed. Also have the brakes set aside and rotors removed. Have the front sway disconnected along w/ the tie rod ends. What I can't get separated is the lower ball joint assembly. There a trick to this? I've PB Blasted the bolt, but it won't budge. I've tried tapping a ball joint fork into the ball joint, but that's being a pain as well. I'm assuming this stuff is somewhat rusted in place right now. Anyone goofed w/a mazda 3 axle before? The ball joint has to be removed so I can remove the axles before I can get to the clutch.

I've looked on line and haven't come across a good youtube video yet on how to do this. I'd appreciate some help please....

Les Davis · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 2:04 pm **Posts:** 2059

Go get this tool from your local auto parts store loan-a-tool program. http://www.handandpowertoolshop.com/pro ... lsrc=aw.ds

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Sun Aug 25, 2013 8:39 pm

On my Civic there was an easy trick that you could do, but the same trick didn't work on my Odyssey. It could be there is no trick way on the Mazda 3. You may have to just use tool like what Les has suggested.

Richard

George Bright · **Posted:** Sun Aug 25, 2013 8:54 pm

I have had luck sometimes by knocking the snot out of the side of the casting that the taper on the ball joint slides into. Hit it with the biggest hammer you have. Apparently the blows momentarily distorts the casting enough to squirt the ball joint out. I have had this work when beating on a ball joint tool did not budge it. I learned this from Mike Blankenship.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Sun Aug 25, 2013 9:26 pm

If you look here....

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... IU-Ng6M%3A

Item 7 shows the bolt that holds the split receiver for the ball joint. I can't back that bolt out. Going to let it sit over night and soak, but that bolt has to come out so I can drop the ball joint. I'm hoping I don't ruin the ball joint, already sheared a tie rod end bolt, so have to replace those.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Sun Aug 25, 2013 9:38 pm

Don't know if it is the same but a steering idler arm "ball joint" on our van came apart very easily when I finally added about a six foot pipe to the pickle fork tool to get LEVERAGE on Saturday. The part has a taper shank and even though it was 25 years old was not rusted in place. In this situation the pickle fork had plenty of access since the internal "ball joint" bushing was gone ( 1/2 inch of axial play . . . oops!) and I obviously wasn't trying to save it. :lol:

Pic of the replacement part.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0131672080

BriceJohnson · **Joined:** Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:33 am **Posts:** 2230

I used a tool like the one Les suggested.

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:06 am

Not saying it won't work, but I thought tool Les suggested was to remove the actual ball joint from the arm, not just separate the two?

If you have air tools, I recommend an air hammer with the right size pickle fork attachment. It's fast and works very well.

If you don't have an air hammer, this is the tool (pitman arm puller) I've used in the past when I wanted to make sure I didn't damage the boot:

BriceJohnson · **Joined:** Thu Apr 13, 2006 7:33 am **Posts:** 2230

VK is right, THAT'S what I used, not what Les had, my mistake.

Jordan Normark · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:19 am

Ball joint "service kit" is the best option. Even with this you may need to heat the area and or wang on it with the BFH.

You probably have to do this anyway, but would it provide you enough clearance to remove the bolt that holds the bottom of the strut to the hub assembly and slide the hub down while still attached to the ball joint? I am guessing you would not have enough clearance to remove the half shaft?

If I remember correctly, you work in Downtown Raleigh, so Harbor Freight is just up Capital Bvld from there. I googled "harbor freight coupon" before going this past weekend and scored 25% off my purchase.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... ball+joint

JamesShort · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 9:27 am

Is there no way to do the Honda ball joint trick where you jack the corner up under the rotor (with some wood) and you put a big 1/2" drive ratchet between the LCA and knuckle in the gap that spreads open as the suspension compresses and then you slowly let the jack drop and the pressure of the spring pops it apart (note: leave the castle nut on 2-3 turns if you do this)

Les Davis · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 2:04 pm **Posts:** 2059

Yeah, VK is right, the tool I recommended is for removing/installing the ball joint into the arm. I've just used a ball joint separator and a BFH for the separation.

http://www.fcpimport.com/products/ball- ... 7AodB1wAOw

Ryan Holton · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 10:44 am

The ball joint will NEVER come out until you get the bolt you reference out. It will make sense when you get it apart but the bolt rides in a groove on the stud of the ball joint. You need a punch to knock the bolt free, then maybe a pickle fork to pry the LCA/ball joint apart from the hub. I am very familiar with said bolt as I just took both my front control arms off last Thursday.

Then you can curse even more if you ruin the ball joint as the first replacement is a bitch as you have to grind rivets off.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 10:47 am

If you look here...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... _376835_0_

It's the bolt that's in the grooved area of the ball joint stud I can't remove. That has to come out before I can back out the ball joint. Not very easy to access and I'm not sure I can get a tool in there. I've hit it w/ BFH and brass drift.... nothing. May be time to get the propane torch out.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Aug 26, 2013 10:48 am

Ryan Holton wrote:

The ball joint will NEVER come out until you get the bolt you reference out. It will make sense when you get it apart but the bolt rides in a groove on the stud of the ball joint. You need a punch to knock the bolt free, then maybe a pickle fork to pry the LCA/ball joint apart from the hub. I am very familiar with said bolt as I just took both my front control arms off last Thursday.

Then you can curse even more if you ruin the ball joint as the first replacement is a bitch as you have to grind rivets off.

^^^this^^^

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need help replacing mazda clutch

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