THSCC Forums

I started the plug for a fiberglass intake today (similar to the joefis intake). Is anyone going to be tuning their miata on a dyno this winter? If so, I'll give you an intake in return for A/B test it against stock intake. Here's a pic of where i'm at with it today:


The plug needs another pass of body filler for the remaining voids, then a lot more sanding, primer, and more sanding.

I think andrew is going to dyno this during the winter. If anyone else wants one printed let me know and I can hook you up with the guy who did it for me. It was $35 to get printed. Also, in a few months he will have a new printer capable of doing it one piece. Also, the final part looks rough on the outside but is smooth on the inside. I had the printer focus his finishing efforts on the interior surface.

So....that's pretty freakin cool. Good luck!

Also, learn me Miata intake airflow. How much does stock intake flow, what are you looking for on this intake, etc etc etc.

Teach me, sensai

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Steve Carter
1972 Datsun 240Z-- resto pics at http://picasaweb.google.com/srcartermd
2007 GPW Honda S2000-- STR 86

I think the main thing is keeping the IATs low and creating a close to ideal intake length. The stock intake box sits right near the exhaust. Some aftermarket headers even melt the box. Ideal length is supposed to be 21-25" depending on whose info you read. This works out to be 26" with the ability to trim about 2" off inlet side. I was hoping it would end up shorter but I didn't have an easy way to test that until I got the final part. I'm not an engineer and have no way to flow test it. I think common sense and avoiding any obvious flow obstructions will work out well enough. The area of any given cross section should be pretty consistent (though it is hard to know the angle to slice a cross section at if you don't know the direction the air is traveling).

Optimal air intake length is 19-21", and it doesn't really matter where it goes; however, colder air = better. The owner of 949racing just uses a 180 degree silicone coupler and keeps the air filter on the intake/cold side of the engine; however, a lot of people mimic the stock crossover tube which quickly turns into a hot air intake. I don't have a heatshield on my intake, but I do have an exhaust blanket, and the exhaust side of the engine does get more than just warm. Putting the filter into the bumper cover in front of the radiator should net significantly cooler intake temps.

It should be interesting doing A/B testing this winter. I think I still have the stock airbox, so Alec and I can do A/B/Stock (but not really since the MAF won't be doing anything).

Also, it's sensei.

I seem to remember a post from bill schenker suggesting his length worked out to be a little longer than 21". Either way, My hope is inches will be a good trade off for ambient air. This should be way better than the randall intake flyin miata sells. Also, there is another cutout on the same side as the throttle body. The hole is big enough but I used some of the extra space in the driver side hole to radius the corner. Putting the intake in that spot would also need more 90 degree bends.

If I could come up with a really accurate/reliable way to 3d scan the interior of the engine bay there are lots of interesting possibilities. I tried using a kinect sensor for the scan and it put out super noisy data that was basically useless.


Andrew- on my NA, what should I do with my IAC hose? My current plan is to make a short run of plastic crossover tube that has a bung. I haven't been able to find any off the shelf elbows that include a bung.

You mean the intake tube to the head? I don't recall a IAC hose.

I know that there is a coolant pass through on your throttle body, though.

On mine, I used a 3/4" heater hose off the IAC connected to a barbed 90 degree copper fitting from Lowe's mounted in a rubber grommet on the intake tube.

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92 Miata 1.9L naturally aspirated. SSM 21

I see what you're saying now. I don't remember the idle control valve looking like that at all. Also, Jordan, can I get like an extra $20 for the intake/TB/IAC I sold you because holy lol:

1.8L NA: http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/product ... 60%29.html
NB: http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/product ... 0D%29.html

Whoa, that's pricey, yeah send me a new one and I'll throw $20 your way

The second pic is of the oil control vavle for your engine, the thingy that sits on the cam cover that controls oil flow to the other thingy that makes the cam shaft wiggle

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92 Miata 1.9L naturally aspirated. SSM 21

Jordan, can you post a pic of your setup? Maybe I just need the right fitting and a hole in the silicone elbow.

Details, man. Details.

BP4W-20-660 VALVE, IDLE AIR $331.90 $199.10



My idea would be to weld a bung onto an aluminum pipe off of the silicone elbow.

Are you just going to move over the MAF or are you looking at grabbing an MS and switching over to a MAP sensor w/ GM AIT?

I can't believe you made me go outside in this coldness

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92 Miata 1.9L naturally aspirated. SSM 21

I will be running the maf for most of this year. I also need to extend the maf wiring (which looks like a mix of 18 and 20 gauge). I think im going to try and find a miata at a pick and pull take it's maf wiring.