mustang rear brake pads

Karl Shultz · **Posted:** Thu Oct 14, 2010 8:32 pm

Guys, if Mark Senior can fit in an NA Miata well enough to race one, I'm sure there's a way to get yourselves to fit.

Dustin Fredrickson · **Posted:** Thu Oct 14, 2010 9:23 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

BriceJohnson wrote:

He's talking about cars us tall people can't even dream about Rodney. . .

NA=1st gen miata
NB=second gen miata
NC=3rd gen, tall person compatible miata

Made a fool of myself at the meeting last night asking what a NA and NB was, but hey, if you don't know, you don't know.

As for NC, I know Mike Miller drives one, but talk about snug....

You just have to change your perspective -- you don't get INTO a Miata... you put it on.

Marty Howard · **Posted:** Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:09 pm

Dustin Fredrickson wrote:

RodneyWright wrote:

BriceJohnson wrote:

He's talking about cars us tall people can't even dream about Rodney. . .

NA=1st gen miata
NB=second gen miata
NC=3rd gen, tall person compatible miata

Made a fool of myself at the meeting last night asking what a NA and NB was, but hey, if you don't know, you don't know.

As for NC, I know Mike Miller drives one, but talk about snug....

You just have to change your perspective -- you don't get INTO a Miata... you put it on.

Sitting on the floor helps.

Les Davis · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 2:04 pm **Posts:** 2059

Dustin Fredrickson wrote:

RodneyWright wrote:

BriceJohnson wrote:

He's talking about cars us tall people can't even dream about Rodney. . .

NA=1st gen miata
NB=second gen miata
NC=3rd gen, tall person compatible miata

Made a fool of myself at the meeting last night asking what a NA and NB was, but hey, if you don't know, you don't know.

As for NC, I know Mike Miller drives one, but talk about snug....

You just have to change your perspective -- you don't get INTO a Miata... you put it on.

This.

Kevin Harvey · **Posted:** Fri Oct 15, 2010 9:08 am

JamesShort wrote:

Every rear set of disc brakes I've ever done where you have to twist the piston back into the caliper, I've just taken a set of needle nose pliers spread open and used that to spin the piston back in.

That is how I have done it on all my Mustangs.

-Kevin

Todd Breakey · **Posted:** Sat Oct 16, 2010 8:49 am

RodneyWright wrote:

That's what I bought last night and while it was great to have the correct tool to use, the pistion simply wouldn't engage. That's my frustration point.

Try some of the other adapters in the kit. I think I found that the Nissan adapter fit my old Mustang perfectly where the Ford on was WAY off. It's worth a shot.

BTW - I had big problems with the rear brakes on my Mustang. I think I changed them 3 times compared to only 2 for the fronts.

Jason Mauldin · **Posted:** Sat Oct 16, 2010 2:30 pm

Todd wrote:

BTW - I had big problems with the rear brakes on my Mustang. I think I changed them 3 times compared to only 2 for the fronts.

Both of my 240s wore out rear brakes faster than the fronts. About the same rate as you saw with your mustang.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Oct 18, 2010 10:32 am

the xp10 pads did amazingly well this weekend. Took it easy on my first session to bed the pads. After that, it was pedal to the metal. Great stopping power to bring that 3400lb car down to a stop, especially in turn 1 and 11. Couldn't have asked for anything better.

Now, I just need to fix the car....

JamesShort · **Posted:** Mon Oct 18, 2010 10:55 am

RodneyWright wrote:

Now, I just need to fix the car....

Uh oh, what happened?

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Oct 18, 2010 11:24 am

JamesShort wrote:

RodneyWright wrote:

Now, I just need to fix the car....

Uh oh, what happened?

I think the front seal on the tranny and the right rear axle seal. Never done either, so this should be fun. Got to get this done before the last event. No pressure!

JamesShort · **Posted:** Mon Oct 18, 2010 11:52 am

RodneyWright wrote:

JamesShort wrote:

RodneyWright wrote:

Now, I just need to fix the car....

Uh oh, what happened?

I think the front seal on the tranny and the right rear axle seal. Never done either, so this should be fun. Got to get this done before the last event. No pressure!

Is that not covered on your powertrain warranty? I think seals are powertrain warranty on my Subaru.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Oct 18, 2010 1:14 pm

JamesShort wrote:

Is that not covered on your powertrain warranty? I think seals are powertrain warranty on my Subaru.

yes, up to 60k, but since I changed the oil, that may become an issue. How much data is stored in that little black box on the car? If there is a sliding window of data tracking and they look at the box and see it was driven at high speed, then I'm sure they won't touch it.

I'm hoping this won't be too bad of a job. Pretty simple under there and old school looking.

JamesShort · **Posted:** Mon Oct 18, 2010 1:22 pm

RodneyWright wrote:

JamesShort wrote:

Is that not covered on your powertrain warranty? I think seals are powertrain warranty on my Subaru.

yes, up to 60k, but since I changed the oil, that may become an issue. How much data is stored in that little black box on the car? If there is a sliding window of data tracking and they look at the box and see it was driven at high speed, then I'm sure they won't touch it.

I'm hoping this won't be too bad of a job. Pretty simple under there and old school looking.

Wives tales and urban legends I say

. Take your car to dealership and tell them it is leaking. Driving at 70 - 120 mph is a lot easier on your tranny and diff seals than stop and go traffic every morning and afternoon at 5-35mph.

The dealership won't look at this so called black box unless Ford tells them too, which for a job like this is a slim chance.

Changing your own oil (tranny or engine) has nothing to do with this unless you put in an oil that is not 'allowed' (say a GL4 in place of a GL5, or an oil with no API certs etc). Also note there is a LOT of grey area in what is allowed, recommended or required.

RodneyWright · **Posted:** Mon Oct 18, 2010 7:49 pm

wow, am I glad I didn't run my last session. Just took off the front left pads and 2 things I've never seen before. First, the rubber accordion boot for the pistons is cooked and coming off in pieces. I've also bent the inside pad and it's shaped like a banana. There's less than an 1/8 of an inch of pad in the center. I'm SO glad I didn't make that last session!

So, how do you replace the rubber piston boots?

http://s1093.photobucket.com/albums/i43 ... G_2642.jpg

http://s1093.photobucket.com/albums/i43 ... G_2641.jpg

JamesShort · **Posted:** Mon Oct 18, 2010 8:01 pm

Put a 2x4 in the caliper and step on the brakes,. Basically you want to expose enough of the piston to stretch the old boot. There is a lip in the end of the piston where the upper part of the new boot pops into and the other end just gets jammed down in there and will pop into a lip in the caliper. Once you start doing it, it becomes pretty intuitive. Lube everything with brake fluid.

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