THSCC Forums

So I searched the previous threads and have been scouring the GM Truck forum. Wanted some additional input.

I just bought an 18' open deck trailer, lowered with drop axles. The Z06 rolls on to it with only a small 2x10 piece under the ramp. So loading is pretty painless on flat land.

I have an 06 Silverado 1500 extended cab, 6.6ft bed, 5.3L with Z71, 4x4, towing package and 3.42 axle. 50K miles. It has never towed anything before. The truck is bone stock except for new Bilsteins.

It weighs in at somewhere in the 7,000lb range. It is also rated to tow at 7,400lbs. Doing the weight calculations. The trailer weighs 1,950lbs and the Z06 weighs 3,150lbs. So 5,100lbs total. Behind the truck. Then extra set of wheels, parts, tools, cooler, canopy, clothes, me, etc. Add another 200lbs in the bed and 300-400lbs in the cab. So maybe 5,700lbs of total load on the truck. My goal is to stay under 6,000lbs total load. That should keep me at 80-85% of the trucks capacity.

Since this is a dozen times or so per year I don't want to crazy on addons but I obviously want it to be safe. Some of the trips will be long ones. Places like VIR or Sanford etc would be more common.

The factory hitch says 5000lbs and my bar/ball are rated at 6000lbs. So the factory Class 3 hitch seems a bit light. I'm buying a Class 4 hitch rated to 10,000lbs with 1,000lb tongue weight. Seems reasonable?

Will get the new Tekonsha Prodigy P3 brake controller with GM connector. This is supposed to be plug-n-play. Anyone used this newer P3 one? Supposedly smarter, with diags, easier install. No levelling issues just make sure it points straight. Any comments? Suggestions on setup?

I'd like to avoid weight distribution and air bags and all that. Unless it is a real problem with the back sagging or wagging too much. I guess dropping the rear a lot or getting pushed around by tractor trailers might be the biggest concerns?

Doing the simple measurement shown with the trailer. Based on the trailer and hitch heights. It looks like a 4" drop bar will work and keep the trailer nose down just a bit. If anyone has one of these trucks and knows for sure if I really need a different one please let me know. I looked at the cool adjustable ones but that's a lot more money.

Any other suggestions?

I towed a 3,200lb, 20ft boat before behind a Cherokee Sport. While not horrible it wasn't something I wanted to drive a long way. It's been 10 years since I've driven anything with a trailer on it. So I'm rusty. I'll have a week to practice driving the trailer around here and loading the car. Then it is off for a week vacation in Sebring

Thanks.

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http://www.greywinds.com

I think you've got it all well covered. You should be able to adjust the car forward/reward to get your tongue weight right. I'd get your ball height set to where the trailer is just a tad high in the front unloaded, then load the car to where it drops the truck an inch to an inch and a half or so, max. Then strap it down and see how it pulls. Excessive sway in that kind of setup is indicative of not enough tongue weight. But if it doesn't sway, then you're probably just fine.

If you have to put enough tongue weight on there to control sway that you're then squatting the truck "too much", then you HAVE to look into load distribution. But I'd avoid it if at all possible, personally. If you can tow safely without it, then it's one less thing to go wrong AND those stupid things are kind of dangerous to "arm" anyway.

Personally, my guess is you'll be fine given the amount of thought you're putting into it. Especially if you're not trying to haul ass on the road with it. You'll be able to be up to speed just fine. Your mileage will likely go in the toilet if my past experience with LDT Chevy's is any indication, but for occasional use I'm sure it'll be tolerable.


--Donnie

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My Blog

up the weight on your ball for sure. i don't much like those hollow bars either. get a solid one. and a 4" drop? are you sure? sounds like a bunch to me.

http://www.agrisupply.com/forged-combin ... n/5100013/

i have one of these on the wife's 3/4 ton suburban. the adjustability is nice to have.

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BenchWarmer Motorsports

another one of those damn LeMons heads

just another Chump

we are an Autocross Club Dammit............

I've got an older but otherwise similar truck - 2001 Silverado 1500 Extended cab with the 5.3 and 3.42 rear, pulling a 16' open deck with a 3300+lb M3. Mine is a 2wd, however. I use the factory hitch, but aim for a 500lb limit (I measured with a bathroom scale levered rig shortly after I got the trailer to determine the appropriate loading on the trailer and squat of the truck. I also use the Prodigy (but assume it's the previous model, as I've had it for a few years now). I haven't had any issues with sway, and I don't use sway control, airbags, or any other load control. I typically have the bed full with 2 complete sets of tires/wheels, 2 compete sets of rotor spares, lots of tools etc... for our 2 track cars (Malia drives the other one).

Depending on the bed and trailer toolbox load, I adjust the car location up to a couple inches back to help keep the truck from squatting too much. I've always been sure to get a little squat in the rear suspension (like Donnie mentioned), but haven't had any issues with sway.

With my truck, I get 15-16 around town with normal mixed driving, and average 14 towing. Not bad in my opinion, and WAAAY better than my old 5.2l Dodge, which would rarely see 14 in town with no load. With the 3.42 I've found it better to run in 3rd unless it's strictly interstate driving at 65+. ~60 mph is the sweet spot (in 3rd) and seems to provide the best fuel economy as well. Pushing higher drives my fuel economy down into the 13's.

I think my drop ball is considered a 2" and is about right. My truck likely sits lower than yours since it's 2wd, so your estimate of ~4" may be about right, especially since your trailer is lowered.

Good luck!

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Dustin Fredrickson
-- I'm a nobody --

x4 or whatever on needing to rethink your ball height.

Don't start with the trailer nose-down when unloaded. It should be slightly nose-high. You want it to be level when loaded.

Everything else sounds good. I have a Prodigy, but it's about 5 years old, so I don't think it's a P3. It has been great, and was easy to install.

I have towed a lot with my parents 2000 Yukon with the factory Class III hitch, and I know I've been over the weight ratings on it, with no issues. That said, my old Suburban had no hitch when I bought it, so I added a Class 4 or 5 Reese Titan hitch with specs that sound similar to the one you're looking at. I love not having to worry about it. I had to use mad skillz (luck) one time to avoid killing a drunk driver, and ended up with the trailer jack-knifed to where the side of the trailer tounge A-frame hit the frame-mount of the hitch hard enough to push the rear end of the Burb around. It bent the tongue of the trailer, but the hitch didn't move. I'm using a killer solid ball-mount now too that's rated at 10K after I bent one of the 6k ones. The 10k one didn't bend in that accident.

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91 RallyX Audi Coupe Quattro
89 A-Team Astro-van demo derby winner at 2011 NC State Fair (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MrZqwENRqU)
Broken 89 Subaru GL-10 RallyX turbo wagon - need to sell it and all my parts cars

You will be fine with the set up you mentioned. I have the newer P3 in my truck. A breeze to hook up and set up. We towed Jeff Creech's 4 door Tahoe up to Durham from Gastonia with no issues on an 18' open trailer.

But I do have the 6.0 in my 1500 short bed.

I had forgotten how easy it is towing an open trailer. Quite a bit less headaches than the 24' enclosed.

Oh, get two spare tires for the trailer! If you run over something on the highway, chances are you will need to replace both. Keep your trailer tire changing tools handy and not buried in with everything else

If your car looks like a race car (decals, numbers, etc), be prepared for cars pulling alongside to stare. Account for this when you are in the right lane and planning to pull out to pass after a car is going to pass you. Trust me, they get up to you and slow down.

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Jim Pastorius
2008 Silverado VortecMax
1992 Camaro CMC#92
2002 BMW R1150R

2009 3rd Place CMC Mid-Atlantic Championship
2009 CMC Hyperfest Winner

Jim,

Tell me more about the relative headaches of an enclosed versus open trailer. I "think" I want an enclosed. My wife "thinks" the opposite.

I've got over 75K of open towing miles on our formula car on an open trailer so I know what that is like.

Ditto on the "spectators" in the left lane. Especially when there are kids in a minivan, etc. that want to look.

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

1) The enclosed trailer is a lot heavier. So your tow vehicle needs to be equipped to handle it. My 2500HD pulled with no problem. I had to spend some extra change to equip the 1500 VortexMax to handle it. Plus I am a lot more conscience of what goes into the truck and trailer now.
2) More difficult to store. After 2 years, the HOA finally busted me with the enclosed trailer at the house. Flatbed trailers are easier to hide
3) More maintenance with the enclosed trailer.
4) If you do not have sway control, passing tractor trailers is always a white knuckle experience. When the trailer breaks in front of the tractor, it will literally track over towards the truck. You have to be ready and put some decent steering to stay in your lane.
5) Far more expensive. You can not go cheap with an enclosed, even a used one. You want the heavy axles.

Now there are positives...I stay at the track. With AC, refrig and microwave it is a nice little home away from home. Especially for a race car, it provides protection from the elements when traveling or temp storage. It also provides me with a lot more storage to bring tools and spares to the track.

Some times I miss the days of towing the little tire trailer behind the MR2 But racing is a little different world.

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Jim Pastorius
2008 Silverado VortecMax
1992 Camaro CMC#92
2002 BMW R1150R

2009 3rd Place CMC Mid-Atlantic Championship
2009 CMC Hyperfest Winner

Jim,

Thanks!

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

Everything Jim said, for an enclosed trailer I personally think a 2500 is better. Having tow with a 1500 I saw a big difference when I bought the 2500 Suburban.
This summer I towed all the way up to Quebec when I went to Mt-Tremblant something like 2500 Mi. round trip.
It went very well, took us the same time then when we do the trip without the trailer but gas mileage was 5mpg down.

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Patrice
1973 911 former track and AX car.
2016 VW GTI
2002 Nissan Sentra (Olivier car)
2012 Nissan Juke (Kathy car)
2010 Suzuki Kizashi (Audrey car)

Thanks guys.

I didn't think about the trailer being a bit above empty then below loaded. I'll try your measurement idea Donnie then slide the load around to get the tongue weight. Steve is loaning me a scale for measuring tongue weight. I'll test all this with a 2" Class 3 draw bar that I already have. Once I figure it out then I'll buy the right Class 4 draw bar.

Dustin I remember we talked a little about this a year or so back at an AX. Your 2WD gets a bit better gas mileage. This will be mostly highway driving on interstate. Some on 55mph areas so I'll try your suggestion on 3 instead of D up to 60mph. It won't see much over 70mph. I need to get used to it and I was told the gas mileage will drop a lot over that. Between load and poor aero. I do have a bed cover though and that does seem to really help and keeps prying eyes away from the bed.

Jim I would have never thought about the people slowing down to check out the car. It will have some graphics on it. Ann's printing company is testing lots of wide format print material and the Vette is now the test bed. Might even be playing with wraps next year... My numbers and some decals and such will probably be on just so the car is ready when it rolls off the trailer. Might as well enjoy the ability to arrive and drive.

Sebring here we come... Another "bucket list" box to check off

Graham

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http://www.greywinds.com

depends on the car. aside from the occasional thumbs up from a bmw fan, no one seems to give a rat's ass about my vinyl graphics festooned e30 when i tow it. otoh, the nsx got lots of attention despite having no stickers of any sort.

Graham,

Actually towing the trailer is not that big of a deal, especially the open one. You will not feel much of drag and cross winds should not be any issue. The trip to Florida is an easy tow, since it is pretty flat.

Three hints:
1) Allow distance for the extra braking it will take. Then expect mini vans and BMW's decide to cut in front of you.
2) Watch out of Mini's and BMW's pulling out in front of you if you are in the left lane. They are on their cell phones and have no concept you have an extra 2 tons behind you.
3) Plan your gas stops. Nothing like running low and having to deal with a mom and pop store with no easy way around the pumps. For my trips to Summit, I have three stations that I hit. I don't care if they are an extra two cents more per gallon. I know I can get my trailer in and out.
Watch the trailer around the pumps.

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Jim Pastorius
2008 Silverado VortecMax
1992 Camaro CMC#92
2002 BMW R1150R

2009 3rd Place CMC Mid-Atlantic Championship
2009 CMC Hyperfest Winner

Graham, Just returned fron Lincoln Neb.... I can attest to people cutting you off and folks that balk at passing a trailer. At first I figured they were looking at the car....but then I noticed that they do that when passing tractor trailers also. Its mainly a female trait but some guys do it also..kind of like they're building up their nerve to pass..a real PIA. My biggest problem has been intermittant brakes, I believe I've remedied that problem with an extra ground between the truck and the trailer. The only place the 2500HD had any problem was in the mountains where it burned a quart of oil, which I assume is a result of driving extended time in second and third gear. The flat land 'tween here and Sebring will offer no challenge to your rig. Everthing else said in this thread is spot on...good luck.

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2004 C5(415whp,390ft/lbs),
1997C5,1997Trans Am, 1986 C4,
1990 Miata, 1976 MGB,1997 Protege, 1989 MR2

4) If you are ever forced to straddle an object in the road, assume that it unplugged your trailer harness and that you no longer have trailer brakes.

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In need of car.