Tips / tricks for Honda timing belt replacement?

Jason Mauldin · **Posted:** Thu Jul 08, 2010 3:55 pm

bump start it.

JamesShort · **Posted:** Thu Jul 08, 2010 4:22 pm

How many ftlbs was your impact gun rated at? Some people have reported that up to 600 ftlbs was needed to break a Honda D series crank bolt. Impact is generally the best way to do these (and any tight fastener that likely has thread-to-thread corrosion).

I've found that my 395 ftlb impact gun does the trick and in the few cases it was struggling, I would drive the car and get it warmed up. Then immediate get the wheel off and start spraying compressed air with the can upside down to let the cold ass propellant cool the crank bolt (while the crank stays relatively warm as it's bathed in hot oil. Then my 395 ftlb gun does the trick.

But if I had a CW rotating honda, I'd use the bump start trick myself

.

Also some people have gone to a shop to have them use their industrial torque gun to loosen the bolt, re-tighten it a bit and take it home to finish the job themselves.

Keith Quistorff · **Posted:** Thu Jul 08, 2010 4:57 pm

Thanks for all the input, guys.

As for the starter trick, I seriously considered it but bailed due to concerns that if I couldn't produce enough torque with my impact driver or big-ass breaker bar w/ pipe extension I didn't want to risk damaging the starter or flywheel by applying even more torque through the relatively small area they interface.

I'm 95% sure my impact gun is rated at 450 ft-lbs - that's based on memory from when I bought it several years ago. It had no problem breaking the crank pulley bolt loose on a Nissan I had at that time, but this Honda is a different story.

Dick's suggestion of trying to use a hydraulic jack on the breaker bar sounds reasonable, but I'm concerned about the safety aspect. I'd rather pay someone to do it than risk getting hurt.

As for adding extensions between the socket and breaker bar, I don't think that will work because the head of the bolt isn't very deep and the fender well is quite deep (meaning a fairly long extesion would be needed to clear the outside of the bodywork) - adding significant distance between the bolt and breaker bar will torque the alignment of the pivot point off center, risking permanently damaging the bolt head.

Any suggestions on a local (Cary) shop that might be willing to break the bolt loose and re-tighten to "normal" torque levels so I can do the rest of the work myself?

Michael Westerfield · **Posted:** Thu Jul 08, 2010 5:04 pm

Keith Quistorff wrote:

Thanks for all the input, guys.

As for the starter trick, I seriously considered it but bailed due to concerns that if I couldn't produce enough torque with my impact driver or big-ass breaker bar w/ pipe extension I didn't want to risk damaging the starter or flywheel by applying even more torque through the relatively small area they interface.

I'm 95% sure my impact gun is rated at 450 ft-lbs - that's based on memory from when I bought it several years ago. It had no problem breaking the crank pulley bolt loose on a Nissan I had at that time, but this Honda is a different story.

Dick's suggestion of trying to use a hydraulic jack on the breaker bar sounds reasonable, but I'm concerned about the safety aspect. I'd rather pay someone to do it than risk getting hurt.

As for adding extensions between the socket and breaker bar, I don't think that will work because the head of the bolt isn't very deep and the fender well is quite deep (meaning a fairly long extesion would be needed to clear the outside of the bodywork) - adding significant distance between the bolt and breaker bar will torque the alignment of the pivot point off center, risking permanently damaging the bolt head.

Any suggestions on a local (Cary) shop that might be willing to break the bolt loose and re-tighten to "normal" torque levels so I can do the rest of the work myself?

Call Gary,
Tell him I sent you.
919-244-1042

jeremy gast · **Posted:** Thu Jul 08, 2010 5:13 pm

ya call gary gordon, he was over here today. tell him i sent you also lol
his shop address is 960 kildaire farm rd, cary. he is on the side of the kmart, where k marts express lube shop use to be.
Jeremy

Matt McGrain · **Posted:** Thu Jul 08, 2010 5:37 pm

Brings back memories of my Integra Keith. I thought I would be smart after borrowing the crank-lock-tool-thing (thx Bryce) and run a couple of extentions out to an upright cynder block as the fulcrum (?).

Anyhow, many broken extensions and a couple trips to Harbour Freight on that one. Probably should have gone to Sears.

I ended up having my local shop, Premium Imports (on Wake Forest Rd.) break it loose and re-install at 80% torque or so since they're at the end of my road.

The B18 beast was conquered after two days and tons of Honda-tech diy at my disposal, and a few cold pbr's. I remember the coathanger trick actually working too for some strange reason...

JamesShort · **Posted:** Thu Jul 08, 2010 5:44 pm

Matt McGrain wrote:

Brings back memories of my Integra Keith. I thought I would be smart after borrowing the crank-lock-tool-thing (thx Bryce) and run a couple of extentions out to an upright cynder block as the fulcrum (?).

Anyhow, many broken extensions and a couple trips to Harbour Freight on that one. Probably should have gone to Sears.

I ended up having my local shop, Premium Imports (on Wake Forest Rd.) break it loose and re-install at 80% torque or so since they're at the end of my road.

The B18 beast was conquered after two days and tons of Honda-tech diy at my disposal, and a few cold pbr's. I remember the coathanger trick actually working too for some strange reason...

Coathanger trick?

Les Davis · **Joined:** Fri Aug 29, 2003 2:04 pm **Posts:** 2059

I have this and contrary to popular belief about Harbour Freight tools, it is still a very effective tool even after a many years of ownership. It is MUCH stronger than my Ingersol Rand 400 ft-lb impact gun. Not sure if it will help, but your welcome to borrow it and give it a try.

JamesShort · **Posted:** Thu Jul 08, 2010 7:56 pm

Les Davis wrote:

I have this and contrary to popular belief about Harbour Freight tools, it is still a very effective tool even after a many years of ownership. It is MUCH stronger than my Ingersol Rand 400 ft-lb impact gun. Not sure if it will help, but your welcome to borrow it and give it a try.

That's what I have too, but I thought it went to 395 or 400 which is what the range in that link says, but it says peak 625? Must be a peak vs rms kind of thing.

Richard Casto · **Posted:** Thu Jul 08, 2010 9:00 pm

This discussion reminds me of the rear axle nut on a Porsche 914. They are known to be nearly welded in place on most cars after 30+ years. At least for those you can attack them with MAPP gas before you break out the mongo breaker bar.

JamesShort · **Posted:** Thu Jul 08, 2010 9:13 pm

P-car owners are way too vain to break a sweat trying to crack axle nuts or light a mapp torch though right?

...jk jk.

Matt McGrain · **Posted:** Thu Jul 08, 2010 9:40 pm

JamesShort wrote:

Coathanger trick?

Basically, the tensioner pulley doesn't really pull hard enough to make the new belt tight. So, you hook a coat hanger in the spring hole on the tensioner and pull the belt tight, then tighten the tensioner into that spot.

Wordy, but the only simple explanation... :roll:

JamesShort · **Posted:** Thu Jul 08, 2010 9:57 pm

Matt McGrain wrote:

JamesShort wrote:

Coathanger trick?

Basically, the tensioner pulley doesn't really pull hard enough to make the new belt tight. So, you hook a coat hanger in the spring hole on the tensioner and pull the belt tight, then tighten the tensioner into that spot.

Wordy, but the only simple explanation... :roll:

Oh, I got you. I just always pull the tensioner a nudge tighter with my thumb before torquing the bolt. Yeah that spring is a bit pansy

.

MikeWhitney · **Joined:** Wed Aug 20, 2003 9:15 pm **Posts:** 4724

Keith if you want to come by and give it a try on the lift here you're more than welcome to. I have the Earthquake gun which has been able to remove a few Honda crank bolts.

Before I had a good gun I also ended up driving my old 91 Civic Si to a local Meineke to loosen and reinstall. They went through a few guns until they found one which could do it.

Keith Quistorff · **Posted:** Fri Jul 09, 2010 2:27 pm

Thanks for the offer, Mike. I may decide take you up on it, but at this point I'm leaning toward just having Happy Jap's do all the work. Their pricing is reasonable, and I haven't bought any parts yet.

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Tips / tricks for Honda timing belt replacement?

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