THSCC Forums

In the shop manual for Michael's 1993 Subaru Legacy, the instructions for replacing the oil pan involve removing the nuts from the engine mount studs and hoisting the engine 2" before doing the actual replacing. In case anyone is bored and wants to answer - is hoisting the engine really necessary? Because we're not set up for that. It would be nice to be able to fix it ourselves, since I suspect this will be a recurring theme

Here's why he needs another oil pan: http://vimeo.com/8625114

It is not necessary if you have some 1/4" drive extensions and ujoints. The issue is you can get about 75% of the bolts out except for a few that are blocked by the subframe. If, however, you use a jack and a 2x4 to take load off the mounts (moving the engine very little) you can get to the bolt heads I'm referring too. The trick is to go in through these large holes in the subframe (the holes are for access to the larger bolts that hold the subframes together.

When you get under it, this rambling will make more sense .

Also, make sure that the oil pump pickup is not cracked up by the block. Subarus are known for this even with modest contact with the oil pan....some have broke this just by jacking the engine up by the oil pan (even with a 2x4).

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2011/2012 Autox VP
2013/2014.5 President
2013 Top Gun

2015 Fit

22R-EC => 4G63 => D16Y7 + D16Y8 => EJ255 + K24Z2 => K20Z3 + K24Z2 => K24Z2 + M54 => L15B

What happened to the 1/8 inch plate steel skid plate?

Either way I can't seem to remember if you truly need to hoist the engine or not to pull the pan. I never had to on that car or my previous one while I owned them.

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2010 Honda Fit Sport
Couple of bicycles

Speaking from experience (but not Subaru experience) sometimes the engine has to be lifted to work the oilpan free from between the block and front crossmember, not just for bolt access. I think a hoist would be better than a jack, especially given the oil pump issues James mentions. I had to replace the oilpan gasket in the Z, and loosening the engine mount bolts and raising the engine even just 1/2" made the job very easy.

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Steve Carter
1972 Datsun 240Z-- resto pics at http://picasaweb.google.com/srcartermd
2007 GPW Honda S2000-- STR 86

I can't remember specifically what is or isn't in the way in the Subie (although I have swapped the entire engine on my 97 OBS) but the last few times I have needed to remove the oil pan on other cars with a longitudinal engine (BMW) or pull the trans from a transverse motor (Honda) I found the best way to do it was to support the engine from above with some kind of beam like a 2x4 with "feet" that support the engine weight from the shock towers. Then remove the front subframe -- usually isn't too hard. This gives complete unrestricted access to the bottom side of the motor, which you really want when swapping an oil pan. If you have to go over/under/around stuff when putting it back in you can't be 100% sure that it's seating correctly.

I have a 4x4 fabbed up with 1x4 feet that can be used with ratchet straps to pull the engine up off the subframe. If you want to borrow it let me know. I'll see if I can find a picture about what I'm talking about in case I haven't described it well

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Mike Whitney
whit32@gmail.com, 919-454-5445
V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1

Found a pic of my neighbor's car when we pulled the oil pan to repair his oil pump. Subframe is completely removed on the car. The rig works great on the BMW because there is a factory lifting bracket on the top front of the motor (I think the EJ22 has one also in the ideal location) -- but I have also used this setup to do trans swaps on a Honda just using big ratchet straps attached to various stuff on the motor. The feet sit on the fender edges.

Lift not required but recommended

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Mike Whitney
whit32@gmail.com, 919-454-5445
V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1

However, link to more details on the lift would be appreciated...thanks!

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Steve Carter
1972 Datsun 240Z-- resto pics at http://picasaweb.google.com/srcartermd
2007 GPW Honda S2000-- STR 86

I should have qualified that you shouldn't jack it up on the oil pan......there are open areas of the engine block that you can jack on or you can jack the tranny up (there is a nice flat area to jack on). So to itemize:

-Remove pitch stop/dogbone mount
-Loosen the two engine mount nuts (don't remove all the way)
-Jack the engine/tranny up a bit (2 inches or less) (if doing the engine, don't jack on the pan, use a 4x4 vertically so that the end is pushing directly on the engine block
-Now for safety, we need to secure this with more than the jack so you can:
*Put 2 long sockets between the subframe and block near the mounts and relieve the jack so it is stuck in this position
*Put chunks of wood in the same place as above
*Use jack stands with some wood to hold the transmission or front of engine up.
-remove all the obvious oil pan bolts (10mm)
-using a 1/4" drive extension and a ujoint go in through the subframe holes at a slight angle to get the back 4 bolts
-remove the dipstick tube bolts and pull it out of the pan
-drop the pan

Check the pickup up near where it mates to the block to make sure there is no crack.

When you put it back on use some gasket sealant and torque the bolts to
3.7 ftlbs (criss cross, little at a time fashion). For the back bolts that you use the u joint in, set your torque wrench to about 4.1-4.2 ftlb to account for the drive angle.

Reconnect the dipstick tube.

Some people on the forums have noted that the OEM motor mounts have enough flex that you can jack up enough to get the rear bolts without loosening the motor mount nuts (those are 62.7 ftlbs)

_________________
2011/2012 Autox VP
2013/2014.5 President
2013 Top Gun

2015 Fit

22R-EC => 4G63 => D16Y7 + D16Y8 => EJ255 + K24Z2 => K20Z3 + K24Z2 => K24Z2 + M54 => L15B

Mike,

By the way, I really like that device for supporting an engine from above. I have a ton of lumber that I've been reclaiming from the construction dumpsters in my neighborhood. I think I'm going to make one of these. Hopefully I can make the contact points for the strut towers a happy medium such that it will work on both the Accord and WRX .

_________________
2011/2012 Autox VP
2013/2014.5 President
2013 Top Gun

2015 Fit

22R-EC => 4G63 => D16Y7 + D16Y8 => EJ255 + K24Z2 => K20Z3 + K24Z2 => K24Z2 + M54 => L15B

The skid plate is still there, but the car slid into deep tracks and made abrupt contact on its belly with the mud. I guess it was just a little too much.

Thanks for the advice!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDWW-SG4zvY

nice video. perhaps.. what is needed, is a different approach to the subaru itself.. not so much the trail, as the car. this is a lifted 82 subaru wagon awd with 38 inch swamper tires.. in gnarly mud. try it, it is great.

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hey yall,watch this...

The skid plate hasn't been changed-- after the last rallycross there was a good sized puddle of oil dripping from the plate, and after our January 1, 2010 excursion it lost about two quarts.

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"Build a man a fire and he'll stay warm for a day. Set a man on fire and he'll stay warm the rest of his life."
'93 Subaru Legacy DIRTBOMB
'98 BMW M3
2013 Rallyx Co-VP

they are pulling the oil pan in the shop right now. I will be calling very soon.

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