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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:00 am 
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Rookie phenom
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Location: Raleigh, NC
All ready under way...

- Cylinder head work to repair damage done at CMP in June
- Valve job
- New injectors
- New rear end with Eaton posi and 3.24 gears
- Change all fluids
- Replace brake ducting hoses
- Replace windshield
- Fix front air dam
- Order PFC front brake pads
- Order new Toyo R888's
- Clean the tire marks off the front fenders :-)

Wish list:
New gauge panel
Adjustable rear wing
Adjustable Rear brake bias

With about 60 days to go before the first weekend and the state of the economy, the wish list items will probably stay just that.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 1:21 pm 
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Not many plans for the 3 other than new tires, maybe stainless steel brake lines, and if someone buys them for me for Christmas, new shocks (Koni FSD's).

Hard to believe that the car has almost 100k miles on it already, so its time to start doing basic maintenance stuff.

Oh, and I did put new brake pads on it two weekends ago.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 2:37 pm 
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My stiffness is only an illusion
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find something to drive....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 4:12 pm 
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It's barely mid-December, and sadly, I am actually almost done with all the things I planned to get for the new car. I think I will just run it bone-stock on street tires for starters and see how that works.

Got new pads (Carbotech ax6) and rotors for it, a set of street tires, changed oil, air filters (intake and cabin), got a set of stock wheels to AX on.

That leaves just two more things to do: Get all fluids changed (tranny, diff, clutch, brake), and buy some decent AX tires.

Yes, yes, the sway bar... I don't know. Maybe. I figure I at least need to have driven the car enough times as-is so I can tell the difference when I install it. :)


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 Post subject: Re: Off Season Plans?
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 4:19 pm 
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I got a SUX2000!
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Aaron Buckley wrote:
While I know Art's runnings were on mixed surfaces, Eric's finish was on asphalt and you will be now running Nationals on concrete, where I think a bigger bar will help, likely, a lot more than you think. - AB


Aaron, could I get you to elaborate on this? What, in your opinion, do you think adding more front bar would result in? I'm not being obstinate here - just generally want to know.

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 Post subject: Re: Off Season Plans?
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 5:12 pm 
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Karl Shultz wrote:
Aaron, could I get you to elaborate on this? What, in your opinion, do you think adding more front bar would result in? I'm not being obstinate here - just generally want to know.


I'm not Aaron, but I'll answer anyway.

Generally speaking, dampers should be used to dampen and springs should be used to fight roll. We like to get tricky and soften the springs to help with bumps and install anti-roll bars as complex springs to continue to fight the roll. In a stock class car you can only play with dampers and front sway bar, obviously, so sometimes we have to make do with playing with both.

The fortunate thing is in your typical front engine RWD car, most of the weight that's going to cause the roll is up front, the same end we have a bar we can change. Okay, great. You find a bar and damper settings that work for a given surface...check. They may even work over a range of given surfaces pretty well, but at some point you're likely to need setup changes for a larger surface change.

If the concrete is very grippy, you now have a pretty large change over, say, HPT. With that added grip you're likely to see more body roll which might take away camber and cause loss of overall grip. You can likely stiffen the shocks if you aren't as stiff as allowed, and that MAY be the right answer. But a stiffer bar may also be the right answer. Likely, you really need BOTH stiffer.

And I'll throw this bone out there. I think Lincoln is probably closer to Forbes in grip than the current general opinion out there. People are used to only running Forbes when there's been a lot of rubber down (and even though most of us have run there first or second heat early the first day, we tend to block that out), but not many people have been able to run Lincoln with a LOT of R-compound cars going through it in a day YET. But that's just my opinion.


--Donnie


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 Post subject: Re: Off Season Plans?
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 6:58 pm 
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I got a SUX2000!
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I apologize for derailing the thread, but I'm trying to learn stuff here.

Donnie Barnes wrote:
I'm not Aaron, but I'll answer anyway.

Generally speaking, dampers should be used to dampen and springs should be used to fight roll. We like to get tricky and soften the springs to help with bumps and install anti-roll bars as complex springs to continue to fight the roll. In a stock class car you can only play with dampers and front sway bar, obviously, so sometimes we have to make do with playing with both.

The fortunate thing is in your typical front engine RWD car, most of the weight that's going to cause the roll is up front, the same end we have a bar we can change. Okay, great. You find a bar and damper settings that work for a given surface...check. They may even work over a range of given surfaces pretty well, but at some point you're likely to need setup changes for a larger surface change.

If the concrete is very grippy, you now have a pretty large change over, say, HPT. With that added grip you're likely to see more body roll which might take away camber and cause loss of overall grip. You can likely stiffen the shocks if you aren't as stiff as allowed, and that MAY be the right answer. But a stiffer bar may also be the right answer. Likely, you really need BOTH stiffer.

And I'll throw this bone out there. I think Lincoln is probably closer to Forbes in grip than the current general opinion out there. People are used to only running Forbes when there's been a lot of rubber down (and even though most of us have run there first or second heat early the first day, we tend to block that out), but not many people have been able to run Lincoln with a LOT of R-compound cars going through it in a day YET. But that's just my opinion.


--Donnie


Alright, this is a start.

Now. On a car with double wishbone front suspension - which has a fair amount of camber gain on compression, as well as a solid amount of caster put in it - is the "body roll as an instrument for reducing camber, and therefore grip" notion still in effect?

I guess what I'm trying to understand, at the core of it, is why body roll is A Bad Thing, if the car drives well, is well balanced, and fast? I mean I guess it looks a little funny in photos, but really, what difference does it make?

Again - I'm not being obstinate, I promise. This all reveals how little I actually know about this stuff. For years now, I've mostly taken the following approach to setting up a car: "find out what other people are doing that works, and do that."

It's one of the reasons I like having a hired gun codriver in the car. Aaron drove with me at one event, and I respect his opinion very much. He made a run, and immediately and without hesitation, asked that we crank the shocks all the way up, and change the pressures a little bit. Presto - the car was a LOT better.

So mostly, this is me trying to learn something.

Thanks Donnie.

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2014 Baby, 2014 House, 2013 Ford Focus ST, 2013 BMW 328i, 1994 Mercedes E320
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 Post subject: Re: Off Season Plans?
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:53 pm 
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Karl Shultz wrote:
It's one of the reasons I like having a hired gun codriver in the car.


You're actually *paying* your co-drivers to flog that car for you? (Since this discussion has been thread-jacked already :lol: )


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:48 pm 
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Most of my stuff is done on the S already as well. I have an extra set of stock wheels to mount Hoosiers on in February, I already installed my single exit exhaust (dropped 38 lbs!), I have a Saner front sway bar sitting in my garage to use as a baseline if nothing else, and my Chase Race trailer hitch got delivered today. All I need to do other than install the above items is to wire up the trailer light harness in the car and get it aligned at some point in January.

Karl on a side note Niles are RR-AX does make custom sway bars so if the Saner is not stiff enough we could always ship out one of our bars and have him make one that is slightly larger. It won't be super light like the splined bar but it will be cheap.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:09 pm 
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Karl & Keith,

What size is that Saner bar? Isn't it like 1 3/8ths inches?

Eric


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:15 pm 
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Eric Peterson wrote:
Karl & Keith,

What size is that Saner bar? Isn't it like 1 3/8ths inches?

Eric


It is a 1.25" solid bar.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:22 pm 
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Keith Vail wrote:
RR-AX


There's no hyphen anymore. :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:23 pm 
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I got a SUX2000!
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AlexMaier wrote:
You're actually *paying* your co-drivers to flog that car for you? (Since this discussion has been thread-jacked already :lol: )


No, it's the other way around. It's just a figure of speech. But I do ask folks if they'll drive it, rather than them asking me.

Keith Vail wrote:
Most of my stuff is done on the S already as well. I have an extra set of stock wheels to mount Hoosiers on in February, I already installed my single exit exhaust (dropped 38 lbs!), I have a Saner front sway bar sitting in my garage to use as a baseline if nothing else, and my Chase Race trailer hitch got delivered today. All I need to do other than install the above items is to wire up the trailer light harness in the car and get it aligned at some point in January.

Karl on a side note Niles are RR-AX does make custom sway bars so if the Saner is not stiff enough we could always ship out one of our bars and have him make one that is slightly larger. It won't be super light like the splined bar but it will be cheap.


Keith, if you run into any trouble installing the hitch, let me know. It's really well engineered, as I'm sure you know. When you go to put the bumper back on, make sure you line it up right with the taillights - there are little channels that it fits into. They're easy to miss if you're not looking for them.

The only glitch I ran across was with the wiring converter thing for the trailer lights. Turns out, if you are driving with the cruise control set, and use the blinkers, it shuts off the cruise. Something wonky in that box (at least, wonky on my particular box). If you have that problem with yours, I know how to fix it.

And yeah, I just recently learned that Niles can make custom swaybars. I had no idea.

Keith, did you ever get that clear bra stuff put on it? If you did, I'm interested to know who you used, and how you like it so far.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:44 pm 
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Some amount of body roll is fine, and even good. You need some weight transfer for things to work as designed. But more than that and you have to remember what's happening to the other side...you're unloading it and moving toward positive camber and such. Unload it too much and that tire isn't doing any work. Now we all know that most of your load is handled by the outside wheels when cornering, but it doesn't have to be ALL of it. I stick by the fact that four wheels on the ground is better than three (or, God forbid, two).

Also remember you seem to be thinking only of steady state cornering. What about transitions? The more roll you have the more time your suspension takes to to transition. If it can't keep up with an element, you're screwed. Some small amount of roll controlled by the shock is good. More than the shock can control or just too much range of motion? Bad.

I'm not saying you need a bigger bar, though. Your car may have had enough bar for any surface and you may have enough shock adjustment to make it right on lower grip surfaces. That probably means you still didn't have an *optimal* suspension setup on those surfaces, though. Was it close enough that it didn't matter? Could be. Hard to say from the armchair position, certainly.

What would I do? Leave it alone and test it early in the season on concrete. If you're lifting a wheel, well, you're got plenty of bar. If the car is flopping over and feels mushy in transition, you don't have enough. Otherwise, you might be just fine still.

And one bar with multiple adjustment holes may suit all your needs, too. Assuming you have space under there for something with a significant range of adjustability, but it's common that this doesn't work. That's why the three piece bars are so nice...easy to change the center section and cheaper than replacing entire bars. Plus they are more linear in their action.


--Donnie


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 11:08 pm 
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OK guys, this is helping me, so thank you for that.

Donnie Barnes wrote:
I stick by the fact that four wheels on the ground is better than three (or, God forbid, two).

If you're lifting a wheel, well, you're got plenty of bar.


OK, on to my next question. These two sentences contradict one another - or at least I think they do. Can you clarify?

By the way - I, too, hold that lifting a wheel isn't a desirable trait. Certainly not a *front* wheel. Rear wheel on a front-wheel-drive race car? Sure. It's only purpose is to keep the gas tank off the ground anyway.

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