ColnOConnell wrote:
Okay, Sean and I will be running our '97 Miata this year and it needs a new clutch. Considering that it has 140k miles and everything other than brakes and tires were put on in Japan, what should we consider changing and with what? We could use a little advice.
Clutch & flywheel
Shocks/springs/bushings
sway bars
wheels and race tires
cold air intake
cat back
What would you do? We promise not to win any races after the upgrades
The plan is to run CSP.
How much money do you want to spend?
Clutch/Flywheel - If you aren't planning on any power adders any time in the future, I'd recommend just getting a Mazda OEM replacement, saving this money for better suspension. If you just wanna spend more money, ACT will sell you a good calf building device, Clutchnet or Spec have entry level units that should be fine with stock pedal feel. My "fiber carbon" Clutchnet is a bit chattery at low speeds and annoying in a daily driving environment. If I end up needing to replace it, I'll probably go with the Spec offering since I'm hearing good things about them. As for flywheel, IMO, they aren't worth the $$$ asked for them, however in CSP where your not allowed power adders, every HP counts, and they will free up a couple HP and slightly better acceleration.
Shocks/Springs/Bushings - I'd reccomend coilovers, the good economical choice is Koni's and ground controls. I and Ryan are running the Bilstein PSS9 system modified to work on a an NA. The only problem with them, is they come with "less than optimal" spring rates. And the spring perches do not take the standard ERS springs. You have to go with the metric (H&R) race springs if you wanna change rates. Of course by the time you bought the PSS9s, the required NB top mounts and replacement springs it ends up being a pretty expensive setup. Alot of people run and like Teins and they come in various from mild to wild. But it is currently still a twin tube dampner, same as a Koni. Bilsteins and JIC are monotube, the JIC look great on paper, but some question the quality/durability. There are some more expensive/obscure
choices that I don't know much about. On a 140K mile car, bushing are definitely a good idea.
Swaybars - Go with one of the big hollow front bars and either stock or no RSB. Don't bother with an aftermarket RSB.
Wheels/Race tires - 13x8s are a good choice for CSP. Unfortunatley, Diamond steel wheels will not fit over your car's brakes. Rumor has it that the Circle racing ones will, but when I talked to them, they claimed that Diamond gets their 13" wheels from Circle, so there shouldn't be any difference. That leaves you with Rota RBs (somewhat hard to get but a great value), Panasports (much more expensive, but a great, light, strong, wheel, also somewhat hard to come by) Then there are the custom guys (Real/Kodiak) which are a confusing mixed bag of results/opnions and expensive. After making your wheel selection, get the widest stickiest tire you can justify.
Cold Air Intake - I hear the Racing Beat one actually makes a couple HP, but they are very proud of it. Its an expensive few HP just like a lightened flywheel.
Exhaust - same as everything else, lots of money for a couple HP. Basically, they just make more noise. Brand doesn't really matter much. On my 210 whp supercharged Miata, I still only picked up 5 hp from a cat-back. The factory header is pretty good unless you have a 99-00, so not much gain there either.
I'm of the opnion that you should spend money in this priority if you want to lower autocross lap times:
1. good race rubber
2. good light/wide wheels
3. good suspension
4. good aggressive alignment
5. cat-back exhaust
6. clutch/flywheel
7. CAI
The only reason the alignment is 4th is because suspension changes will affect that. So if your going to change suspension, wait till afterward to get aligned. Otherwise alignment is right after tires.
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Lots of peeps say its BETTER than power.
I would go with something not far from stock, its just overkill. Dont get me wrong, I love my ACT but its a bit more than needed. I do like the fact I can do 5-6k launches and not smell the first bit of clutch slip. 
