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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:21 am 
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Location: Mooresville, NC
I agree, Karl makes a great point in sticking with the Spec setup. It will force you to practice with what you race.


-Kevin

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:07 am 
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Rookie phenom
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Location: Raleigh, NC
Karl Shultz wrote:
If you're stuck with the gears you don't like when you're racing the car, I would absolutely NOT change them. I'd drive with them every single event. It'll teach you how to better manage shifting in places you don't like. That's just me.


I agree 100% with Karl. Especially if you are planning on racing. Get used to what the car wants. During a race weekend, you don't have a lot of time to practice.

One other point, swapping any thing back and forth adds one more element for error. Ask me how that ruined this past weekend. What you want to strive for is having the car ready 10 days to 2 weeks prior to your race.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 9:35 am 
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Location: Apex
points well made and considered.

So I will leave it as is for now.

So maybe on to the next topic of why I have trouble with 2nd to 3rd shifts after sharp right handers and what I can do to make it better.

shifts fine on left handers and straights. I have the hardest legal rear trans mount and motor mounts in the car already.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 12:38 pm 
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You're just jealous

Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:14 pm
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Location: Raleigh, NC
Marty Howard wrote:
points well made and considered.

So I will leave it as is for now.

So maybe on to the next topic of why I have trouble with 2nd to 3rd shifts after sharp right handers and what I can do to make it better.

shifts fine on left handers and straights. I have the hardest legal rear trans mount and motor mounts in the car already.


Some minor difference in driver position or angle/speed of shifter movement when you shift based on how you hold the shifter in right turns.

Some relative movement of trans shifter versus tunnel opening causing interference. Any "slop" in the engine/trans mounts that could allow interference? How stiff is the chassis where the engine/trans mount? Could it be twisting enough to cause shifter/bodywork interference?

Solid axle (right?) moving enough to transmit some sort of bind force through the u-joints into the trans.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 1:41 pm 
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Chassis is VERY stiff (two 8" main tube rails plus a full cage). I suspect slop in the motor mounts though. One thing I have noticed is the rear trans mount seems to untorque itself afer a weekend or two.

I don't think it's driver position since the seat is very stiff and there is a lot of support (kirkey Pro) and lots of beltage. But that is really hard to judge.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 4:43 pm 
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I have a stimulating package
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Though maybe too involved for just a "test", could you fab up some more solid mounts just to test the theory during a lapping day at least?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:13 pm 
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You're just jealous

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Location: Raleigh, NC
Marty Howard wrote:
Chassis is VERY stiff (two 8" main tube rails plus a full cage). I suspect slop in the motor mounts though. One thing I have noticed is the rear trans mount seems to untorque itself afer a weekend or two.

I don't think it's driver position since the seat is very stiff and there is a lot of support (kirkey Pro) and lots of beltage. But that is really hard to judge.


The question I didn't ask is how close does the shifter get to any sheet metal or other structure before any theoretically possible movement? If there more clearance to everything than any conceivable movement could use up that isn't the problem. :lol: If it is close, use some putty, etc. and look for witness marks. I'm assuming the trans is a modern "shifter goes directly into the trans" rather than the older rube goldberg shifter linkage outside the trans.

Another question might be whether something is preventing full clutch disengagement in one direction versus the other.

Also, what does the trans mount bolt to (sheet metal versus strong tube)? I'm assuming the motor mounts are on the big frame rails. Could there be some "local" sheet metal distortion that then puts a torque on the trans housing resulting in a bind inside the trans or clutch or???

Is there any chance that since you are being pushed into the left rear area of the seat in a right turn that either your leg or your shifter arm is having to "stretch" to either get the clutch fully depressed or the shifter all the way to the far right of the shift pattern?

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