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Swapped my Stop Tech Street pads back in today, I couldn't stand the noise or the looks anymore haha.

It's pretty weird making everybody think i'm driving a piece of crap when in fact I just wanna tell them it's performance sound! lol

Anyway, the HP+ pads got cooked real good, the grease I put on the backing plates was totally gone and the paint was crispy and flaked off, I had to blow bits of it out of the caliper lol.

It looked like the friction material might have been trying to separate from the backing plate, but it might have just been paint cracking up.

Even the paint on the back pads and the grease had almost all melted off.

Do you guys even put grease on the backing plates? Obviously it didn't help anything in this case since it wound up on my wheels. It was a good quality synthetic grease but guess nothing will stand up to the kind of heat the pads get put through. I noticed some companies make titanium shims to attempt and shield some of the heat from the caliper, which I guess it supposed to help save the seals and help prevent boiling fluid.

Much happier to be back on the street pads though, I can't stand noisy brakes while driving on the street, even though the torque on the HP+ pads is awesome, it takes some adjustment back to the street pads, they take so much more pedal pressure to get ABS engaged.

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2017 Autocross Chief of Tech

2000 E Street Miata
2015 Focus SE EcoBoost 6 speed
2015 Fiesta ST (Wife's ride)
2012 Yamaha FZ1 sorta crotch rocket? All I know is 150HP and 487 lbs is fun!

I've never used grease on track pads.

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"Every ship is a minesweeper, once."

Yeah, skip the pad grease on track pads. Grease the sliders and such, but not the backs of the pads.

YES, clean and grease the sliders often. The heat cooks the grease in them and they bind. It is unpleasant.

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"Every ship is a minesweeper, once."

Guess that makes sense, the grease didn't do anything anyway haha.

The brembos just have the pins and the caliper doesn't slide so they should be the only thing that needs a touch of grease.

The pad material itself looked ok, the backing plates were obviously very hot and cooked the paint off and the metal had changed color, i'm guessing thats normal. The rotors also had obviously gotten very hot since the rust was a different color, pretty sure this is all normal but just never seen it first hand myself.

The brakes are much better now with my street pads installed lol, the passenger side is still making a very small amount of noise, I think that rotor got beat up pretty bad, no pulling or anything under braking so I don't think there's a caliper issue.

_________________
2017 Autocross Chief of Tech

2000 E Street Miata
2015 Focus SE EcoBoost 6 speed
2015 Fiesta ST (Wife's ride)
2012 Yamaha FZ1 sorta crotch rocket? All I know is 150HP and 487 lbs is fun!

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-77164-Ni ... B000HBIDR4

Slider lube of choice. 2400° should be plenty. Put some on the pad ears as those slide on the caliper body even in most fixed piston caliper designs.

Never thought of using anti-seize, i'll try that next time, I have a tub of synthetic brake grease i've been using, but it won't hold up to anywhere near those temps. Pretty sure it's well down into the 3 digit range heat wise.

_________________
2017 Autocross Chief of Tech

2000 E Street Miata
2015 Focus SE EcoBoost 6 speed
2015 Fiesta ST (Wife's ride)
2012 Yamaha FZ1 sorta crotch rocket? All I know is 150HP and 487 lbs is fun!

I had a horrible time with regular anti-sieze, which is rated to 1600. It turned into clay and completely bound up my sliders. Normal brake grease will turn to liquid around 500 degrees, while high-temp brake grease is good to 3000 degrees:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ce ... 0RC2D0S7DG

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"Every ship is a minesweeper, once."

I was about to say use the 24125 stuff (3000F) I can't recommend the aluminum stuff on anything that actually moves. Even if it doesn't get baked into a brick, it will eventually dry out and cake. (ok for lugs, pin bolts, spark plugs, etc.)