THSCC Forums

My husband is taking my Mini to the track soon, so I'll be taking it for the annual inspection. Two questions:

1. Do I make an appointment or just show up? What time, etc?

2. I had new brake pads, rotors, and sensors installed (on the front only) 10K miles ago. I burned through the first set after 25K miles. So I estimate they have about half a life left. Should I replace something now to get it ready for the track? Maybe upgrade just the pads? I wouldn't mind if it helps me at autocross, either

Thanks

It is best if you have an appointment for the Tech inspection.

you can sign up here: http://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/ ... FBD38B0DBF

As far as brakes go, it is always best to have fresh pads and fluids for a weekend. With 1/2 life pads I would deffinately take a spare set with you if you don't change them out.

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Marty Howard
2011 NASA SE Factory Five Challenge Champion
Track Events Logistics Coordinator - TZC/THSCC
2007 Factory Five Challenge Car.
http://www.mh-motorsports.com

I burned through 90% of a new set of rear OEM pads when I took my M3 on track the first time. I DID leave traction control on that weekend, though, and suspect that was causing a LOT of extra rear brake usage. I'd recommend a backup pad like the PBR / Axxis ULT's, as they are relatively cheap and take heat reasonably well. They do wear pretty quick when pushed hard, but that shouldn't be an issue the first track event or three.

Edit: you'll need to flush the brake fluid as well, assuming that hasn't been done in the last couple months. Brake fluid absorbs water very quickly, which drastically reduces the boiling point of the fluid. Boiling fluid = bad. Check the Tech Guide on timetrials.net to get more info on tech requirements.

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Dustin Fredrickson
-- I'm a nobody --

I think the first time I went to the track (2002 Mini s)I had just switched to EBC green stuff pads and they lasted a couple of events and still drove on the street with them. My experience is the oem pads will go away rather quickley. If you only have half I doubt they will last the event. IMHO if I was going to track a car with sensors I would splice the wires together to fool the idiot light. Everytime I have tried to replace pads with them I brake the sensor. If you are tracking and axing you are constantly looking at the pads and don't need the idiot light. I Always take extra pads and rotors because I figure I will eventually need them anyway and I donlt want to miss a session because I have to go get new ones to even drive home on.

I get my rotors from Napa and they have been great even with dedicated track pads, no need to upgrade them.

The backs will last a whole lot longer than the front at the track.

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2002 MCS, 2003 MCS Track Rat, 2003 Generic White Yukon, 2003 BMWk1200rs, 1973 CB350F, 02 996. 08 Cayenne Turbo
http://www.clinehallagency.com

Likewise, my sensors are still plugged in, but the sensor end is removed from the pad and zip-tied somewhere out of the way.

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Dustin Fredrickson
-- I'm a nobody --

yeah, no need to splice good ones!

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2002 MCS, 2003 MCS Track Rat, 2003 Generic White Yukon, 2003 BMWk1200rs, 1973 CB350F, 02 996. 08 Cayenne Turbo
http://www.clinehallagency.com

Depending upon the car and the pad though, when you get track pads they will be too hard for AX. I use Carbotech XP10's in the front for track and they are way too hard for AX (and really for the street, but I'm too lazy to change them and don't street drive the car except to events.) They did stop the car when I took it for a spin around the neighborhood though last weekend.

For your first events you (Michael) shouldn't need dedicated track pads, but do bring a spare set just in case.

Alternatively, if Michael has good insurance those old used pads are just fine

I picked up Hawk HP+'s for Judi's first track events at CMP and they held up pretty well. I took the car out for a short session and pushed it pretty good for a few laps and had no noticeable fade, and CMP is tough on breaks. I think they would be fine for his first couple events. They would be a noticeable improvement in autocross as well. The down side is they dust like crazy and if you daily drive them, they can get a little loud. If you can get over those two issues, they should work well for your purposes. I'd imagine you could get a season of autocross and a couple track events out of them.

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Stephen Westerfield
2009 Infiniti M35 | 2007 Honda Fit Sport | 2005 Ford Mustang GT |2000 GMC Sierra |1992 Acura Integra LS | Super Westerfield Bros Acura Integra

That's one way to keep him away from autocross

Thanks for the advice, guys!

My last track event I used EBC Red stuff which lasted the weekend and lots more. I did not like them on the street or AutoX. They need too much heat to be good for AutoX.
I run EBC Green Stuff all the time for daily use and AutoX.

If he is just going to try it out track I would recommend EBC green stuff. If he continues to run on track he may want to put on track pads just for the track days. A bit of a pain to change pads all the time, but that the price to pay for playing.

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"Ruttin' is racing"

Chris Suich
Apex, NC
AutoX 2012 Nissan Leaf (Quietly changing the world)
AutoX 2003 Mini Cooper S (on sabbatical)
RallyX 1993 Nissan Sentra - "Le Tigre"
FunX 1970 Camaro LT1 ('95)

Brake Pads are a bit of a personal choice. I had EBC Greens on a street vehicle and HATED THEM so much I won't put them on anything. I had Cobalts as track pads on the Miata and while they stopped good they ate the rotors in the front in one track day and one or two AX's (& way to hard for AX).

I think I used AXXIS pads for my first track day at Roebling not new and they worked real well, and they are usable for AX and track until you really begin braking hard. I think Hawk has a similar pad.

After that Cline is probably the best at saying what he likes for track pads since he is the MiniMan.

I've run EBC Green Stuff's for Autocross and I actually liked them as they provided good modulation on my non-ABS car. I never ran them on track, but I wouldn't as they didn't have enough initial bite and I'd expect them to fade with hard use.



That would be the Hawk HP+ I mentioned (DO NOT USE HAWK HPS's FOR TRACK). I've had good luck with Axxis Metal Masters on the rear of my car on track.

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Stephen Westerfield
2009 Infiniti M35 | 2007 Honda Fit Sport | 2005 Ford Mustang GT |2000 GMC Sierra |1992 Acura Integra LS | Super Westerfield Bros Acura Integra

I'm going to hijack this for a bit for some generic "Car prep for first HPDE" questions.

How much tire wear should we expect on the first time out? I'm picking up a Miata next Thursday that I'll be using for HPDE events and the current owner says the tires are "RS-2s have maybe 2-3k left on them." Should I just get a new set of tires now? I'd hate to cord them on Saturday.

Rotors, should I just do them to be safe? I'll have most of the gear off to do the pads anyhow. I don't have the car yet so I can't say for sure how close I am to min thickness already. I already have fresh pads on the way to put on the car.

If the car fails tech inspection what is our recourse? There is a squeak in one of the wheels when you shake it. The current owner is pretty sure it's a rubber piece between the spring and perch that has gone afoul. I won't know if it's inserted wrong or just worn/missing until I take out the shock. If I'm not able to fix it with parts I have on hand is it possible to go back for a retech before the event?

I’ll tackle each of these separately.




It really depends. Most people on their first time will experience very little wear because the just don’t push the car that hard. The speeds tend to be a lot more intimidating than your typical AutoX course. But as always, there are exceptions. It’s mostly just a judgement call. The tech guys can give you feed back on where your tires are now, but sometimes the tires are the best with that last ¼” of tread.




Check the rotors when you get the car. It there isn’t any cracking (or at least no more than some microcracks) or grooving, they should be just fine. If you need to, the Beck-Arney rotors at Autozone work great and are pretty cheap.



We have 3 tech sessions scheduled before the first event. SO if there is an issue you can come back and have it rechecked later. If one of our other dates doesn’t work, you can also have your own shop look at as long as they sign the tech form and can be verified.

_________________
Marty Howard
2011 NASA SE Factory Five Challenge Champion
Track Events Logistics Coordinator - TZC/THSCC
2007 Factory Five Challenge Car.
http://www.mh-motorsports.com

Maria here is my take on brake pads. If you and/ or your husband plan on doing several track weekends I'd recommend buying dedicated brake pads that are full track pads. Not combination pads (OK for street and track) but rather pads only recommended for track use. I don't own a Mini so can't recommend specific pads but pads like Hawk HT-10s come to mind.

There are many companies that can provide pads: Hawk, Porterfield, Carbotech, Performance Friction, etc.

When I had a car that I used on the street as well as on the track I would change to track pads the evening before the event and then switch back to street pads either at the track as I packed up or at home the next day.

As for tires, my recommendation is to stay on street tires for your first bunch, if not all, events on track. While sticky tires will allow you to go faster they may also allow you to develop bad habits by covering up the effects because they offer up more grip. They are also much more expensive.

My suggestion is to go to your friendly neighborhood tire place and buy some mostly worn out tires with 3/32 of tread left. Of course make sure they are worn evenly. I used to be able to get these for around $10 a tire which included mounting.

Use these and you will learn how to use the car to get the most traction. After years of driving on track you can then graduate to sticky tires. Since you then have the correct habits you are able to take full advantage of the stick from those tires.

Hope this helps!

Ron