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I did on NASIOC, but they were all subies and I didn't recognize any of them.

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Todd Breakey
STS 42 - 1992 Sunburst Miata
Dammit!
"You souldn't play leap frog with a porcupine. You might get hurt." - Eliza

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Has no responsibility whatsoever.

I saw one set of pictures, but it didn't have any of the fast cars - AB

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'14 Toyota Sequoia Platinum 4WD
Super Westerfield Bros - '93 Integra - LeChump Du Jour
STX 93 - Scion FR-S

Thanks Eric. Although I think you're giving me way too much credit since it did fall out of a logical progression to figure out why I was so slow in one spot.



I think that is the key and directly backs up what I observed playing around. If I didn't consciously focus on initiating a big steering input to the left with a push by my right hand, my left hand would try to lead from an awkward position and eventually couldn't keep up.

It would be cool to datalog steering wheel inputs to see if a difference in "attack" can be seen and try to correlate that to the movement of the car. It sure feels like my right arm is stronger but sloppy while my left arm is weaker but *much* more precise and it seems like that could easily make a difference in how the car reacts.

Jim

I played with it when I first got it and it seemed to work as advertised. My testing was extremely limited which amounted to slow runs up and down my street. I haven't bothered to try it at an event yet since I was still trying to get used to the overall operation so I have no idea what kind of event day surprises you may see.



I've hacked together a little circuit that will trigger both units but it isn't very practical at the moment (prototype sitting on a breadboard). I'm hoping to get some time to consolidate a couple of items and make a little enclosure for it real soon.

Jim

Curious why you'd do a circuit to trigger both rather than a circuit to do one from the other.

My ideal solution is to run a relay off the power output on the PDR (it can only handle powering devices 300mA or less, which won't run the SS-1000 video mux or even a DL-1). I then put the PDR on constant power in the car. Then use the LANC remote to power and start/stop the PDR. Using it to power the PDR will also turn everything else on and off via that relay. My hope is the LED on the LANC will "remind" me well enough to keep me from killing the car battery.

Advantage? I can power everything up and get good GPS lock before the heat starts and not worry about losing lock if someone kills the car. The same power switch can control everything, too.

The PDR has a status line available that could also trigger the DL-1. Make that work, and you can start/stop and power cycle the entire mess from one single button. That's what I'd like to do, anyway. My guess is that the video and data won't be exactly sync'ed, but they will have a repeatable difference that once discovered would make it easy to sync the video and data in the Trackvision software.


--Donnie

I was thinking of adding a couple of those cheap Aiptek cameras to get a little more feedback on my driving and it will get hard to trigger everything manually. I don't want to pony up for the PIP unit and I can use the Aiptek cameras for other stuff as well.

I was also thinking of having the circuit provide some power supply functionality to everything. I'd love to be able to isolate the video, logger and other potential devices from the main battery but I think I may run into problems with the rules. There is something about not having 2 batteries in the car but I haven't looked at it in a long time. If there is a restriction, I'm hoping to get around it by possibly using batteries that weren't made for automotive use such as RC car batteries. I'll definitely have to get a clarification on that one...

Jim

If the second battery is not hooked up to the car, why would it be a problem? Certainly my video recorder has it's own battery as did my Geez cube and the palm computer used to record the data. One thing nice with the Soli is that the 12V power outlet (previously refered to as a cigarette lighter socket) is live at all times, key on or not, so the DL1 remains on as long as it is plugged in. It also has a low battery power shut off so you can't accidently drain the battery low enough to not be able to start it.

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SPIN or WIN!
there's no glory for going slow.

But that's the whole point. I don't want to hassle with charging batteries and fool around too much with wires before, during or after an event. I've gathered some crude requirements and know how much power I need-- it's just a matter of the exact implementation at this point.

My 12V outlet in the CRX is always active as well but I'm not running a stock battery. If I was, I wouldn't worry much about being able to start the car. As usual, that would be too easy.

Jim

Carry a set of jumper cables? There's always cars available for a jump.
Those little Hondas are pretty easy to push start too!
How about a 12V motorcycle battery or gelcell (lighter and can be mounted anywhere, 4AH gelcells are commonly used for backup power in alarm systems and sell for ~ 20.00) and just jumper it to the main battery for charging when driving around or hook it to an inverter charger powered off your 12v outlet when not racing. Most electronics have a very low draw.

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SPIN or WIN!
there's no glory for going slow.

What is an onboard charging system????

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT