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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 8:00 pm 
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Rich Anderson wrote:
For me, it boils down to the inability to service and inspect the bolt system track side. Studs are easy to see and at least on my car, easy to replace. Slam dunk.


I understand the logic of what you are saying and I don't want to discount anyone's pain with respect to cross threaded studs, but I think this all point out that you need to first try to prevent cross threads in the first place. That is the first line of defense.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02, 2006 9:36 pm 
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Richard Casto wrote:
Rich Anderson wrote:
For me, it boils down to the inability to service and inspect the bolt system track side. Studs are easy to see and at least on my car, easy to replace. Slam dunk.


I understand the logic of what you are saying and I don't want to discount anyone's pain with respect to cross threaded studs, but I think this all point out that you need to first try to prevent cross threads in the first place. That is the first line of defense.


My problem was not that the lugnuts were cross-threaded. I never use pneumatic/electric tools on my lugnuts. I am still not 100% sure what the cause of the problem was, but I have talked to others that have had this same problem. As I said earlier, I am pretty confident that the antiseize is going to solve it.

Charlie


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:10 am 
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Richard Castro wrote:
I understand the logic of what you are saying and I don't want to discount anyone's pain with respect to cross threaded studs, but I think this all point out that you need to first try to prevent cross threads in the first place. That is the first line of defense.
Obviously we don't want broken or buggered wheel fasteners, but in a thread titled "broken wheel studs", we should be addressing not only how to prevent that but also what to do when it has happened. Reality says that things go wrong, and since I am going to guess that wheel fasteners are one of the most commonly accessed items on our cars, chances are sooner or later we or someone we know are all going to have an issue. That is why I suggest a conversion from wheel bolts to studs as the threaded holes in hubs are not easily field serviced or inspected.

Now, if to every event you want to carry a drill and the right heli-coil kit, more power to you. Me, I just got a car that requires bolts and I am switching to studs ASAP.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 9:24 am 
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Rich Anderson wrote:
Now, if to every event you want to carry a drill and the right heli-coil kit, more power to you. Me, I just got a car that requires bolts and I am switching to studs ASAP.


Rich, my point was to be careful when starting threads. ;) I have to wonder what percentage of cross threads are people getting maybe a single turn on a nut by hand (threaded correctly? Who knows!) before they reach for their impact wrench and then do damage.

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1972 Porsche 914
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2015 Honda Fit EX
http://motorsport.zyyz.com
Money can't buy happiness, but somehow it's more comfortable to cry in a Porsche than a Kia.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 9:38 am 
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Richard Casto wrote:
Rich Anderson wrote:
Now, if to every event you want to carry a drill and the right heli-coil kit, more power to you. Me, I just got a car that requires bolts and I am switching to studs ASAP.


Rich, my point was to be careful when starting threads. ;) I have to wonder what percentage of cross threads are people getting maybe a single turn on a nut by hand (threaded correctly? Who knows!) before they reach for their impact wrench and then do damage.

ImageI am looking for some like 46220 in the picture above. Lines the nut up for you. Finding them in screw in is not happening, so I might have to get some more conventional ones and have the tips machined to shape.

Either that or convert to 5/8" circle track studs! :shock:

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