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 Post subject: Is there any reason I shouldn't put these tires on the ARRR?
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 11:49 am 
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Beside the cost and the "gentlemen's agreement" of course. :whoknows:

As some may know, the Tire Rack is closing out the Hoosier A3S04 to make room for the S05 and they seem to be doing a killer deal for a 205/50/15 for $114 a tire ( http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp ... odel=A3S04 ).

My biggest concern is how vital it is to have them heat cycled? Does this really promote the tire's adhesion on our autocross surfaces?

Since the tire has been around some time, I figured many of you guys have run these and perhaps could offer any suggestions or pros & cons about these. They would be going on my stock Type R after my Azenis go into retirement.


thanks,
Matt


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 12:40 pm 
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Depends how much front camber you can get :) I run three degrees negative and do not have any cording the edge issues. If you are under 2, you may have issues. Are you going to run 205's on all four corners? If so, rotating them will help a lot.

At THSCC events, the race rubber does not help that much.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 1:43 pm 
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jimpastorius wrote:
Depends how much front camber you can get :) I run three degrees negative and do not have any cording the edge issues. If you are under 2, you may have issues. Are you going to run 205's on all four corners? If so, rotating them will help a lot.

At THSCC events, the race rubber does not help that much.


I think I will run 205's all around so rotating them front to rear is not a problem. Will rotating them inside-out (left to right) insure more life?

Can I run 2.5 degrees of negative camber in a daily driving situation on Yokohama ES 100's without wearing out the inside edge?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 1:45 pm 
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Matt McGrain wrote:
Can I run 2.5 degrees of negative camber in a daily driving situation on Yokohama ES 100's without wearing out the inside edge?


Or can you get 2.5 legally for DS?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 2:11 pm 
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Quote:
Beside the cost and the "gentlemen's agreement" of course.


Answering what you told me not to address:

- As long as the third Type R driver doesnt mind, Simon is gone until August... so, if you wanna.. why not?

You already beat someone on R-comps this past event on concrete... :D

- brian


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 2:20 pm 
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Brian Herring wrote:
Quote:
Beside the cost and the "gentlemen's agreement" of course.


Answering what you told me not to address:

- As long as the third Type R driver doesnt mind, Simon is gone until August... so, if you wanna.. why not?

You already beat someone on R-comps this past event on concrete... :D

- brian


If Charlie ran a clean 74.xx I'd have been crushed! Good job again Charlie.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 3:35 pm 
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Matt McGrain wrote:
jimpastorius wrote:
Depends how much front camber you can get :) I run three degrees negative and do not have any cording the edge issues. If you are under 2, you may have issues. Are you going to run 205's on all four corners? If so, rotating them will help a lot.

At THSCC events, the race rubber does not help that much.


I think I will run 205's all around so rotating them front to rear is not a problem. Will rotating them inside-out (left to right) insure more life?

Can I run 2.5 degrees of negative camber in a daily driving situation on Yokohama ES 100's without wearing out the inside edge?


I know Jim has mentioned flipping the rubber in the past to help even tread wear. I am certainly considering this as an option to help maximize tread life on my SO4's. I can't get close to -2 in the front of the Miata, either.

I run my Autocross alignment on our Miata as a daily driver, but both ends of the car are well under -2 camber, and I probably ran <5k miles on the last set of Azenis I had on it. That said, the negative camber I COULD get just helped even tread wear a little across the tread surface, since auto-x is hardest on the outers. Now, if you are in the 15k/yr range on your tires, then -2.5 may cause some inner shoulder issues on your street tires.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 3:49 pm 
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Camber doesn't kill tires on the street. Toe does. People have safely run 3* negative camber and haven't seen any unusual tire wear patterns.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 3:52 pm 
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Wes Eargle wrote:
Camber doesn't kill tires on the street. Toe does. People have safely run 3* negative camber and haven't seen any unusual tire wear patterns.


True dat. My Miata got out of alignment last year (too much toe out up front) and almost ruined the street tires. Those tirs are on the back now and I may have to flip 'em just to get more life from them.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 4:18 pm 
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At $114 a tire, they are a good deal. My fronts get over 80 runs. The rears just do not give up. My Sunday afternoon runs were on 1+ year old S04's with over 60 runs!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 5:18 pm 
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Sounds like you have already made the decision to go with R compound tires but I just wanted to make you aware that you can still get the old azenis in 15" now.

Vulcan tire has them in close out for $71 a tire. A few weeks ago they did not have any in stock.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 5:46 pm 
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Mitchell Moore wrote:

Vulcan tire has them in close out for $71 a tire. A few weeks ago they did not have any in stock.


Thanks for the heads up on the Azenis. That's where I always found the best prices.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2005 5:52 pm 
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They fixed the edge cording issue on the 04s early in the production run by narrowing the belts. I haven't heat cycled an AX tire before use in the last 2 1/2 years without problems, we often have been pulling stickers off them in the pits. IMHO heat cycling may be beneficial for road racing, but it's just wasting tire rubber (or money) for AX. Heat cycles are what kills an R compound's traction so why add another one before you even run them?
S04s give great traction from new to cord. We have gotten as many as 80+ runs on them without noticable fall off.

On the Azenis: we feel like the 615s are much better an AX tire than the 215s especially in the wet that paying more for the 6s for AX is money well spent.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2005 10:12 am 
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Heat cycling *is* beneficial for autocross because it allows the rubber to be stickier right off of the bat. You have a chemistry background and should know better. :wink:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/ ... ?techid=66

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2005 11:34 am 
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Wes Eargle wrote:
Heat cycling *is* beneficial for autocross because it allows the rubber to be stickier right off of the bat. You have a chemistry background and should know better. :wink:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/ ... ?techid=66


Yeah, just so I wouldn't have an excuse in the event that I don't shed anytime from my Azenis, I just ordered them with heat cycling to be performed.


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