Help with Miata classing

JerryMaloney · **Posted:** Thu Mar 27, 2014 2:08 pm

So I picked up a Miata so the Corvette can become the dedicated track car. I am trying to determine what class it will run in and I am confused after some discussions I've had and what I've read in the 2014 Rules.

The car: 2002 Special Edition - Sport suspension - street tires (340 treadwear) - Torsen Limited Slip Differential - all stock

I thought this would be in ES

I plan to add a flying Miata catback and maybe upgrade the front sway bar and add one in the rear. These both look legal under stock class.

My confusion is with the Torsen limited slip differential, I've heard that jumps the car to a different class, but I didn't find anything about that in the rules.

Anobody have any thoughts on what class I should be in?

JamesShort · **Posted:** Thu Mar 27, 2014 2:49 pm

Only do the front bar, not the rear (you only get a choice of 1 of the 2 in 'street' class). Yes that car with a CBE and FSB would be in E street.

The comment regarding the torsen is pertinent to NA miatas eligibility for ST*: Viscous or Open diff => STS, Torsen => STR.

michaelsmiller · **Posted:** Thu Mar 27, 2014 3:02 pm

Last year a 2002 would have been in C Stock. Your car and the Toyota Spyder were bumped out of CS this year. The handling on your car may be the best to date for a Miata, except for the Sport model. Koni’s make a huge improvement. I don’t know why the change happened. Maybe there was just too much competition in CS. Anyway, welcome to the world of Miata. :thumbsup:

Andrew Jonell · **Joined:** Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:43 pm **Posts:** 1350

The Toyobaru happened, that's why the NBs and ZZW30s got bumped out.

JerryMaloney · **Posted:** Thu Mar 27, 2014 3:32 pm

Thanks guys. That helps alot.

I just ordered a pile of parts to get this thing up to snuff and prepared for the next event, don't think I'll have time to install the new top by then though.

I wanted to go cruising today but I have to wait for a new caliper to come in tomorrow, the prior owner replaced the rear passenger side and the driver side started to leak heavily on my way home with it. Now I'm thinking I might put new fronts on it just to be safe. Got to love used cars!

Ryan Holton · **Posted:** Thu Mar 27, 2014 3:57 pm

All these people buying nice NB miata's puts really bad ideas in my head.... :stick:

JamesMilko · **Posted:** Thu Mar 27, 2014 4:29 pm

join usssssssssss

michaelsmiller · **Posted:** Thu Mar 27, 2014 4:44 pm

Andrew Jonell wrote:

The Toyobaru happened, that's why the NBs and ZZW30s got bumped out.

That's true, but why didn't the NC get kicked out as well. The NC has more power than the NB, but some of the special models of the NB have better handling. Mazda, never really did any optimized NC special edition like they did on past models; no sports, 10 AE's, or R's. They just painted their under damped shocks yellow an put a bilstein sticker on them. The toybaru's are pretty well optimized. The MSR does not count as a special performance model, but it shows the potential of the chassis.

Andrew Jonell · **Joined:** Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:43 pm **Posts:** 1350

JerryMaloney wrote:

Thanks guys. That helps alot.

I just ordered a pile of parts to get this thing up to snuff and prepared for the next event, don't think I'll have time to install the new top by then though.

I wanted to go cruising today but I have to wait for a new caliper to come in tomorrow, the prior owner replaced the rear passenger side and the driver side started to leak heavily on my way home with it. Now I'm thinking I might put new fronts on it just to be safe. Got to love used cars!

I have a front passenger caliper that I just pulled off of my car if you haven't ordered a new reman yet.

RobLupella · **Posted:** Fri Mar 28, 2014 12:41 pm

As long as it has a top it is still legal. The top doesn't help performance. Of course with no top the performance does suffer with 20 gallons of rainwater in it.

Karl Shultz · **Posted:** Fri Mar 28, 2014 2:32 pm

Ryan Holton wrote:

All these people buying nice NB miata's puts really bad ideas in my head.... :stick:

Do it! Here's approximately where I ended up. These are numbers off the top of my head, rather than actually looking at invoices:

- 1999 leather package, unmolested and un-crashed w/ 86K miles and a brand new top: $5500
- Catching up on maintenance: $300. All fluids changed with Redline, new radiator and hoses, air filter, plugs, wires, valve cover gasket, CAS cap seal.
- Alignment: $70
- Used sport package Bilsteins: $200
- New pads and rotors all around, which probably wasn't necessary: $100 (Raybestos pads, Wearever rotors)
- Tires: I bought two used from Eric, so I got out cheaply. New, call it $600 installed. 195-50-15 ZIIs.
- Racing Beat 1 1/8" hollow adjustable FSB: $275 with extra reinforcement blocks and fancy ball joint endlinks.

Still needs: timing belt, accessory belts, water pump. That'll end up being under $200.

Total, ready to autocross: $7045. I feel like I got a great deal on the car, and I'm loving it so far. It's not perfect, but it's pretty nice.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Fri Mar 28, 2014 3:34 pm

Miata Street (formerly Stock) 2014 Classes:

BStreet:

Mazda
MX-5 Miata MS-R (2007)
Miata Club Sport (2003)

CStreet:

Mazda
MX-5 Miata (non-MS-R) (2006-
14)

EStreet:

Mazda
Mazdaspeed Miata (2004-05)
Miata (1990-2005)

Toyota MR2:

CStreet:

Toyota
MR2 Turbo

EStreet:

Toyota
MR2 (non-turbo) (1985-95)
MR2 Spyder (2000-05)
MR2 Supercharged

JerryMaloney · **Posted:** Wed Apr 02, 2014 12:06 pm

Andrew Jonell wrote:

JerryMaloney wrote:

Thanks guys. That helps alot.

I just ordered a pile of parts to get this thing up to snuff and prepared for the next event, don't think I'll have time to install the new top by then though.

I wanted to go cruising today but I have to wait for a new caliper to come in tomorrow, the prior owner replaced the rear passenger side and the driver side started to leak heavily on my way home with it. Now I'm thinking I might put new fronts on it just to be safe. Got to love used cars!

I have a front passenger caliper that I just pulled off of my car if you haven't ordered a new reman yet.

Already ordered all the parts, Thank you though.

JerryMaloney · **Posted:** Wed Apr 02, 2014 4:24 pm

So I was playing with the ne wcar and unlike the Z06, this thing can't be steered with the throttle :shock:

Do I need to use the steering wheel?

but seriously, I am now considering a hard dog roll bar in case I want to take this to the track occasionally. I am again confused by the stock rules. So I can buy a roll bar but not one that has any cross bracing?

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Wed Apr 02, 2014 4:30 pm

JerryMaloney wrote:

So I was playing with the ne wcar and unlike the Z06, this thing can't be steered with the throttle :shock:

Do I need to use the steering wheel?

but seriously, I am now considering a hard dog roll bar in case I want to take this to the track occasionally. I am again confused by the stock rules. So I can buy a roll bar but not one that has any cross bracing?

Regarding the steering wheel, I can steer the FF on sticky slicks with the throttle so you shouldn't have too much trouble if the car is setup loose. :lol:

Looks like you have a choice between GCR OR Solo construction requirements with the exception of the height limit so that it fits within the factory hardtop or convertible top.

Quote:

3.3.2 Roll Bars
Roll bars or roll cages are strongly recommended in all cars. A roll bar
meeting the requirements of Appendix C or a roll cage meeting the requirements
of the Club Racing General Competition Rules (GCR Section
9.4, Roll Cages For GT And Production Based Cars, and/or GCR
Section 9.4.5, Roll Cages For Formula Cars and Sports Racing Cars)
is required in all A Modified (AM), B Modified (BM), C Modified (CM),
and F Modified (FM) vehicles and all open cars in Prepared Category,
D Modified (DM) class, and E Modified (EM) class. For open cars in the
Street, Street Touring®, Street Prepared, and Street Modified categories,
the roll bar or roll cage height may be reduced from Appendix C or
GCR 9.4 requirements to the highest possible height which fits within
an installed factory-specified hardtop or convertible top. The roll bar or
roll cage height may also be reduced in the same manner for cars in
the Prepared category with a full original equipment windshield assembly
and a standard (as defined herein) hardtop which has been bolted
securely in place.
Double-hoop roll bars must fasten properly to the chassis/unibody as
required by Appendix C, particularly at attachment points in the center
of the car.

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