THSCC Forums

Prepare to be frustrated with the combination of the 5.0's power, limited rubber, and non-linear throttle mapping. It's still fun though.

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2001 Honda S2000 - SOLD
2012 Boss 302
2003 BMW 330i

Tell me more about the non-linear throttle mapping. I didn't notice anything weird when I ran the car on all seasons at an EVO school or at a NASA autocross. Does it provide more throttle early in the pedal travel and then proportionally less later? FYI my car is an automatic.

The hardest part for me with the Mustang is that the throttle is frequently an "on/off" switch in the FF. Not so in a Mustang.

I hope the ZII's don't feel as limited as the all seasons or there is going to be a very quick case of buyer's remorse.

Thanks!

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

Dick,
I found the pedal provided very little throttle for the first 50% of travel. It was very hard to be smooth with throttle application in AX and track. The TCS was far more aggressive than my 08'. So, you could leave it on and it would cut throttle significantly as you linearly applied throttle. Or, you disable it and the tail would quickly step out when linearly applying throttle. I don't know if they ever changed the throttle mapping, but mine was a 11GT deluxe for referrence.

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2001 Honda S2000 - SOLD
2012 Boss 302
2003 BMW 330i

Interesting since I haven't experienced this on the street with gentle driving with TC and ESC on (need to keep my license ). For the EVO school and autocross TC and ESC have been off and the throttle behaved as I would expect for the available traction and/or bumps at VMP. I literally haven't used first gear for hard launches in the two autocrosses since the car was traction limited in second from standing starts. When Sam Strano and Mike Johnson drove the car at the Danville EVO school they didn't comment other than to make sure TC and ESC were off. I'm pretty sure they launched in 2nd also.

I don't know how the rev limiter reacts but with the tall automatic gearing even with short ZII's I don't expect to hit it much, if at all.

Mine's a 2012 Premium GT which should only be trim level stuff.

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

Project 1: find a car.

I drove down to Peachtree City, GA on the night of Valentine's Day, to look at a 10AE Miata. I didn't buy it. Too much undisclosed damage and other inaccuracies. It's 24 hours I wish I could get back.

So the hunt continues for a suitable NB candidate for ~6K. I now have a couple of local-ish candidates, but I'm having an entirely different problem. Sellers won't return phone calls or emails. I even found a car a little further away that I think would be nearly perfect, but I'm really unsure if I want an Evolution Orange car. I'm torn on it. My wife thinks it looks like something from out of our daughter's diapers.

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Karl S.
2014 Baby, 2014 House, 2013 Ford Focus ST, 2013 BMW 328i, 1994 Mercedes E320
(Insert passive aggressive signature line here)

Konis installed in the Mustang. Sure is a lot of work compared to working on the CM car. My old nice and strong spring compressor didn't have enough travel to compress the front springs sufficiently. Autozone tool loan to the rescue. Get the ZII's tomorrow at Jeb's. Rear bar probably won't get to me soon enough to comfortable install before NCCAR.

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

Decided to change my spring plates to spring cups so the spring will not wonder. Cut, weld, grind continues!







That's better. Hopefully I've taken this apart for the last time!

Cash

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09 Bullitt - DD
11 Fusion - Wife's DD
03 Mazda6 - Track car
00 PSD Excursion - Tow rig
67 Firebird - Don't you still own your 1st car?
61 F100 - Dad's truck
90 Moto Guzzi Calif III - Tourer
00 Cagiva - Adventure bike
00 DRZ400 - Woods bike

I need to limit the suspension droop so the spring doesn't fall out when I jack up the car or, Say, jumping curbs at VIR. I've seen limiting straps on those Baja race truck to keep the shocks from bottoming out in full droop, so this is my version using 2" strap.

Welded a bracket to the lower control arm. The upper mount is adjustable with a 6" eye bolt. There's a fender washer and a wing nut in the trunk.

Here it is adjusted so when the wheel is in the air, the spring is just a bit loose in the seat.



Here it is with full weight on the suspension.



Wadaya think?

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09 Bullitt - DD
11 Fusion - Wife's DD
03 Mazda6 - Track car
00 PSD Excursion - Tow rig
67 Firebird - Don't you still own your 1st car?
61 F100 - Dad's truck
90 Moto Guzzi Calif III - Tourer
00 Cagiva - Adventure bike
00 DRZ400 - Woods bike

Here is what I have left as of now, still got a ton to do on the car.

Pre-cage:
Interior:
Mount harness (excl. shoulder straps)
Make new drivers side seat mount
Connect horn
Gut doors
Make window hangers

Drivetrain:
Change diff fluid
Replace valve cover gasket
Replace spark plugs
Change timing belt

Suspension:
Disassemble RR suspension
-Remove axle nut
-Remove knuckle from control arms & axle
-Remove control arms from subframe
-Press bushings out of control arms
Remove rear sway bar
Install NA rear sway bar & end links
Reassemble RR suspension
- Drill & tap holes for Zerk fittings
- Insert & lube poly bushings into control arms
- Reinstall control arms into subframes
- Press old hub & bearing out of rear knuckle

Press ARP studs into rear hubs
Press new hub & bearing into rear knuckles
Reassemble & install rear knuckles
Replace rear brake lines
Flush brake fluid
Drop off car at Performance Chassis for cage
Get all worthwhile parts on Craigslist

Pre-first event:
Change oil
Change transmission fluid
Flush coolant
Bed new rotors
Set ride height
Bring car for alignment & corner balance

Post-first event:
Pull motor
Replace clutch with 949 clutch
Install clutch stop
Replace clutch line with 949 line
Replace slave cylinder
Remove complete A/C system
Remove P/S pump
Remove P/S steering rack
Remove seals from P/S rack & cap hydraulic lines
Re-install P/S rack
Reinstall motor

New tune on the car. It's not going to make me win events, but it's better. Remapping the throttle is a big improvement by itself. Now I need the header to get here.

With 16 days left in winter I have the following left to do. Got a ton done and only have a few things more to do. I'm hoping to drop the car off at PC this weekend for the cage.

Pre-cage:
Interior:
Mount harness (excl. shoulder straps)
Gut passenger door

Drivetrain:
Change diff fluid
Replace spark plugs

Suspension:
Replace rear brake lines
Flush brake fluid
Drop off car at Performance Chassis for cage
Get all worthwhile parts on Craigslist

Pre-first event:
Change oil
Change transmission fluid
Flush coolant
Bed new rotors
Set ride height
Bring car for alignment & corner balance

What do you think of the tune after the first event?

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Steve Carter
1972 Datsun 240Z-- resto pics at http://picasaweb.google.com/srcartermd
2007 GPW Honda S2000-- STR 86

I have to exercise my Amex a bit (alternatively: ask me about still needing to blow a grand on a car that is valued at 1250 by Wake County)

Stuff left to do:
Install new brakes (master, booster, SS lines, Wilwoods, sport rear rotors, new pads, prop valve, ducts)
Buy a 14mm rear bar and endlinks
Buy tires
Alignment + corner balance
Retune on the dyno and A/B testing with Alec's 3D printed intake
Pass a visual
Get a pink sticker from the DMV

Milko's coming over tonight to lend a hand for the booster+master swap and bleed.

Impressive.... So can stop on a dime and leave change?

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Rodney

'08 Bullitt mustang, CAM 7
Autox VP '09-'10, President '11-'12, interim President 2nd half of ‘14
proud recipient of the Bowie Grey service award '12
Now just a guy driving a mustang....