Winter 2013/2014 Autocross Projects

JamesMilko · **Posted:** Sat Dec 14, 2013 8:28 pm

When I was there buying it I mentioned to Youssef that the body is almost too nice to turn it into a race car.

Jordan Normark · **Posted:** Sun Dec 15, 2013 10:21 am

JamesMilko wrote:

When I was there buying it I mentioned to Youssef that the body is almost too nice to turn it into a race car.

"almost"

I look forward to seeing it prepared.

Jordan Normark · **Posted:** Sun Dec 15, 2013 10:44 am

[quote="JamesMilko]I *may* end up with a set if I build the new Miata as an aero car. IIRC 600#/325#[/quote]

I have some 300 lb springs I can put on the rear, and a couple of sway bars I can play with. I think this will get me closer to ideal than the 450's that are on the rear now with no sway. Looks like I'll battle it out for mid-pack in Tire next year :lol:

Steven Carter · **Posted:** Sun Dec 15, 2013 12:17 pm

JamesMilko wrote:

The sunk cost fallacy will carry this project through.

You fell down the rabbit hole long ago....don't let logic and rational decisionmaking hold you back!

Ryan Holton · **Posted:** Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:56 am

Steven Carter wrote:

JamesMilko wrote:

The sunk cost fallacy will carry this project through.

You fell down the rabbit hole long ago....don't let logic and rational decisionmaking hold you back!

Ughhhh, aint that the truth. You should try building and maintaining at LeChump car.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:12 am

JamesMilko wrote:

The sunk cost fallacy will carry this project through.

I sometimes wish I had never taken Engineering Economics and learned about the sunk cost fallacy. Except, of course, when it helps "justify" buying something new and shiny. Too bad new and shiny frequently is far to expensive to justify, let alone pay for.

Andrew Jonell · **Joined:** Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:43 pm **Posts:** 1350

DickRasmussen wrote:

I sometimes wish I had never taken Engineering Economics and learned about the sunk cost fallacy. Except, of course, when it helps "justify" buying something new and shiny. Too bad new and shiny frequently is far to expensive to justify, let alone pay for.

Immediately followed by "so, check out this brake kit that is worth more than my car".

Cash Davidson · **Posted:** Sat Dec 28, 2013 4:53 pm

Sort of Autocross/Track related . . . Working on the Tow Rig.

Some maintenance related (waterpump, hoses, fan clutch, tranny fluid/filter):

Some performance related:

Now thats a man-sized LSD! :mrgreen:

Cash Davidson · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 1:37 pm

Now that we have the modifications done on our rear sub-frame - adjustable spring perches, solid mounting bushings and modified bumpstop - its time to install it and see if our measurements and calculations work out.

Here the old sub-fram is ready to drop out. All the control arms are disconnected and the wheels are swung out of the way.

Here's the dirty old sub-frame sitting below our new, high-performance sub-frame.

The new sub-frame installed!

Solid sub-frame mounting bushings, modified bumpstop and the adjustable perch threaded all the way up.

Here are the jack screws coming up thru the truck for easy adjustment of the rear ride height. :cool:

I'm digging it!

Interesting comparison: Here, left to right is the OEM spring, Eibach Pro-kit Spring (shorter & stiffer) and my new 500lb/in race springs (even shorter & stiffer).

Hopefully, I'll get it all back together before NCCAR! :thumbsup:

JamesMilko · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 3:12 pm

I just sat down and made a list of the work I need to do on the new Miata. I got some work to do. I doubt I'll make the first AX but hoping for the first track event.

Pre-cage:
Interior:
Finish removing sound deadening on firewall
Re-install pedals
Responsibly remove refrigerant from A/C system
Remove evaporator
Remove dash harness from dash bar
Re-install OEM dash bar & harness into car
Make sure car still starts and everything works
Mount steering column to dash bar
Attach turn signal & light controls to steering wheel
Mount steering wheel hub adapter to steering column
Mount quick release & steering wheel to hub adapter
Mount harness (excl. shoulder straps)
Mount race seats

Drivetrain:
Remove AC condenser
Change diff fluid
Replace valve cover gasket
Replace spark plugs

Suspension:
Disassemble FR suspension
-Remove ball joints & tie rod end from knuckle
-Remove hub from knuckle
-Remove control arms from subframe
-Press bushings out of control arms
Disassemble RR suspension
-Remove axle nut
-Remove knuckle from control arms & axle
-Remove control arms from subframe
-Press bushings out of control arms
Remove front sway bar
Remove rear sway bar
Install RB front sway bar & end links
Install NA rear sway bar & end links
Remove poly bushings from NA control arms
Drill & tap holes for Zerk fittings
Insert & lube poly bushings in NB control arms
Reinstall control arms into subframes
Press ARP studs into new hubs
Reassemble & install front knuckles
Replace front brake lines
Press old hub & bearing out of rear knuckle
Press new hub & bearing into rear knuckle
Reassemble & install rear knuckles
Replace rear brake lines
Flush brake fluid
Drop off car at Performance Chassis for cage
Get all worthwhile parts on Craigslist

Pre-first event:
Change oil
Change transmission fluid
Flush coolant
Bed new rotors
Set ride height
Bring car for alignment & corner balance

Post-first event:
Pull motor
Replace clutch with 949 clutch
Install clutch stop
Replace clutch line with 949 line
Replace slave cylinder
Remove complete A/C system
Remove P/S pump
Remove P/S steering rack
Remove seals from P/S rack & cap hydraulic lines
Re-install P/S rack
Reinstall motor

Steven Carter · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:31 pm

Wow....you two are impressive. :thumbsup:

Bought and installed new exhaust...check
Bought and installed Hondata...check
Bought and installed new rear springs.......nope. Turns out the length I bought put the lower spring perch in contact with the rear anti-roll bar. Didn't anticipate that, so put the previous ones back on for now.
Changed motor/trans/diff fluids...check

Scott Johnson · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:57 pm

Scott Johnson wrote:

I'll talk about adding a header and tune to the BRZ. I'll dream about getting fancy suspension, then in the spring time I'll autocross it with no changes and the same tires I was running in 2012.

They say "shit or get off the pot." Just ordered the header and a tuner. Won't make it faster than the same # of $ in suspension, but it will be more fun as a daily driver, and shouldn't actually be any slower. Might not have the header in for March, hopefully in time for VIR in April.

I'll still be on mostly stock suspension and 2 year old Z1 star specs. There's a chance I'll tweak the rear sway bar (15mm vs 14mm), curious to see if I could even notice a difference.

Cash Davidson · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 7:16 pm

Holy cow, James! That's quite a list! You know the off-season is almost over. :lol:

Cash

JamesMilko · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 7:55 pm

No minute like the last minute.

Also, while I have a lot of things to do, it is pretty much all bolt on things that I've already done before. Nowhere near as impressive as Cash's fab work.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Sun Feb 16, 2014 9:32 pm

Last minute decision last week to run my 2012 Mustang in FS:

To do list:

Ordered Konis last week - Received Saturday. Hopefully install this week. Then string align toe.

Ordered Adjustable rear bar last week -

Ordered ZII's - Hopefully mount this week

Ordered CAN OBDII adapter for DL1 last week - Due Monday

Figure out how to drive an FS car for the first time since about 1991 - Could take years or I quickly go back to CM

:lol:

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