STR in 2012

Keith Vail · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2012 2:27 pm

JamesShort wrote:

On stock springs, try to get as much front camber as possible. From what I read that's in the -1.8 to -2.2 realm. Whatever you get, match it in the rear or go a bit less (abs value-wise). Square is probably a good starting point. Lot of more conservative alignments point towards more negative camber in the rear than front but that can be really pushy in the steady state stuff since rear suspension gains camber faster than the front per unit compression.

I think the nationally competitive folks are running -2.5f/-2r (or a -0.5* bias towards the front).

I can help here if you are running basically stock with street tires. First max the front camber and possibly even dial out some caster to gain the extra camber. Once the camber is maxed somewhere in the negative 1.8 - 2.0 range probably then max out the caster adjuster. Rear camber can be set at -2 no issues and will give you a good balance on both street tires and race rubber should you decide to do that at some point in the future. For toe set the front at zero and the rear at between 1/16th to 1/8th degree total toe in.

JasonWatts · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2012 3:33 pm

Judi Westerfield wrote:

Very nice Steve! We wanted a white one as well, but couldn't pass up the price on the silver one.

I'm contemplating bribes so I don't finish last in every event this year in STR! I can barely drive the car on the road let alone an autocross course. Very fun car though!

Just dont treat the gas pedal like Arts mustang :thumbsup:

MarcusMcRae · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2012 4:06 pm

Matt McGrain wrote:

I love Gran Prix White! Can't wait to see it in grid this year and I'm glad to be part of another Spy Vs. Spy theme with someone, just with a different Honda this year.

Steven Carter wrote:

It isn't without flaws, but I like it

Funny, mine's definitely no garage queen either but if figured an AP2 with a few bruises priced around the AP1 range wasn't a bad proposition if it doesn't burn too much oil, my biggest fear but the compression test was good ~220 across. Besides, what could go wrong with a car purchased from a place called "Exclusive Carz"? :lol:

I've got a little list of blemishes but as soon as I push the start button, they don't seem to bother me too much.

-replace rear endlinks (creaky/a bit of play)
-fix crankseal leak
-replace rollhoop plastic covers (delaminated in FL/LA sunshine? - currently ziptied ftw!
-front tires are wearing a bit on the inner edges (all the more reason for 'Specs. and soon...)
-get another key and fob as it only came with one. Buying from a low budget dealer has it's fun surprises.
-replace leaking ball joint
-front headlight gathers a touch of condensation

I guess my goals and plans before it's Test-n-Tune time are:
-Amsoil in trans & diff
-M1 and filter
-brake and clutch fluid flush
-use alignment certificate at our awesome and very generous club sponsor, Janko (not sure of specs, need to get my 'study on')
-front bar most likely
-245 & 255 Star Specs going on the stock wheels
-maybe some semi-aggressive pads although I'm not sure I need them, especially being on ST
-seatbelt locker as these seats are slippery
-test coolant

I have been using the amsoil mtl in the trans and 75w90 severe gear in the diff. The trans shifts perfectly when it's warm. A bit notchy when cold. I'm not sure I would use mobil 1 in the motor. I have been using the rotella 5w40. I will be getting an analysis when I change it but so far it barely uses any oil even when I vtec it yo. If you use the stock 10w30 weight you might try penzoil platinum. I have read nothing but good things about it.

What are you testing the coolant for? Is it overheating?

Prep-wise this year I will be getting a set of the stock rear wheels for the front and new tires(not sure which brand). I might try using the lower spring perch clip on the konis to see if I can get some more camber. Done.

Steven Carter · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2012 4:38 pm

Ryan Holton wrote:

Keith Vail wrote:

The 245 on an 8 inch wheel will not be the happiest tire and you would be giving up grip and feedback to the guys running the 255 on the 9 inch wheel. I ran my 255 RS3's on the S2000 on both 8.5 inch width and then 9 inch wide wheels and could feel a difference in how crisp the car was. Being that 17x9's are not expensive and I would take the extra inch of wheel on each corner over saving the couple lbs of rotating mass by going with narrower wheels. This is all IMHO of course.

Keith speaks the truth.

With my old 240, I started with 8" wheels. It was a significant difference going to a 9" wheel with the same tire.

Good point. And, in reviewing the article the GRM people thought the 245 StarSpec on a lighter 9" Kosei K1TS was better than a 255 on a 17 x9 TRM C3, not a 245 on a 17 x 8 as I had mis-remembered. It is also interesting to note that they went back to 255s in the most recent issue of the magazine.

Matt McGrain · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2012 5:07 pm

Marcus, actually I'll probably just going to change the coolant instead of testing it (to make sure it's really not mostly water - ya never know). It's not overheating or anything crazy but I'm surprised how quickly it warms up for an eight year old car with close to 80k. My Integra took a WHILE on a chilly morning.

Judi Westerfield wrote:

Yes, he's a big fan of NC State! By the way, GO PACK!!!

+1 for the Pack! I'm psyched to see what happens with the '12 basketball recruiting class. It will be great to have you in STR and I'm sure Therese will do a couple of events this year again.

Kevin Allen · **Joined:** Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:42 pm **Posts:** 3479

Mine takes about 5 miles to warm up to normal operating temp.

As for trans oil, I got the Honda fluid from Leith, and it works great. It was notchy/slow when cold before the change, but ok when warm. I got Castrol 75w90 for the rear diff - haven't changed it yet, because I didn't have a 23mm wrench.

I've already flushed brake fluid, but still need to do the clutch fluid. It's pretty nasty. Is there anything special you need to do, or just bleed it like brakes? The Subarus are sometimes a pita to bleed, if you get air in the slave cylinder (not that I plan to do that with the S2000). I remember seeing the clutch slave on the left side of the trans when I changed the trans fluid, but didn't really look that closely at it.

Stephen Westerfield · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2012 6:56 pm

I'm jealous of the white for sure Steven, but I just couldn't do the red seats. Nice find though.

I just did the tranny and diff last week and went with the Amsoil MTF and Severe Gear 75W-90. I'm contemplating ditching the Amsoil MTF though as it made it noticeably notchier than whatever was in it (I assume Honda MTF). It doesn't seem to get much better when warm either. I should have trusted my past experience as I didn't like the Amsoil MTF in my Integra either. Pennzoil Synchromesh works so much better in that application. I wish they still made the Synchromesh with friction modifier as that is what I'd try. I guess I'll just go back with the Honda MTF.

Kevin Allen · **Joined:** Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:42 pm **Posts:** 3479

I was getting a slight grind in 2nd and 3rd if I tried to shift it like it was an STi when it was cold, but the Honda MTF fixed that.

JamesShort · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2012 7:09 pm

Stephen Westerfield wrote:

I'm jealous of the white for sure Steven, but I just couldn't do the red seats. Nice find though.

I just did the tranny and diff last week and went with the Amsoil MTF and Severe Gear 75W-90. I'm contemplating ditching the Amsoil MTF though as it made it noticeably notchier than whatever was in it (I assume Honda MTF). It doesn't seem to get much better when warm either. I should have trusted my past experience as I didn't like the Amsoil MTF in my Integra either. Pennzoil Synchromesh works so much better in that application. I wish they still made the Synchromesh with friction modifier as that is what I'd try. I guess I'll just go back with the Honda MTF.

It's odd how every trans likes different fluid. The K series 6 speed felt OK with white cap Honda MTF, a smidge better with Redline MTL and lightyears better with Amsoil MTF. My D series Civic felt blah with red cap Honda MTF, better by a decent bit when white cap MTF came out and tons better with Redline MT90 (until the winter hit...sub 40 degF mornings and it was notchy as hell....switched to Redline MTL and it was nice all year round). Subaru felt like crap on anything other than the OEM Extra S fluid (redline and OTS 75w90....though Motul Gear 300 was supposed to be good in Subaru 5MTs). Ram's miata felt great on MT90. I think I told Jeremy I'd do his s2000 trans and diff so I'll await feedback on various fluids from the masses, but a cheap heavy duty diesel 75w90 will likely go in the rear diff.

Kevin Allen · **Joined:** Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:42 pm **Posts:** 3479

Subarus feel best with fresh fluid. :lol:

LIZTi had old oil in the trans, and it almost wouldn't go into any gear even when warm (of course, it had been like that for a while, but I hadn't driven it, so nobody noticed that something was wrong :roll:

). Changed it using the same stuff, smooth as butter.

JamesShort · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2012 7:32 pm

Kevin Allen wrote:

Subarus feel best with fresh fluid. :lol:

LIZTi had old oil in the trans, and it almost wouldn't go into any gear even when warm (of course, it had been like that for a while, but I hadn't driven it, so nobody noticed that something was wrong :roll:

). Changed it using the same stuff, smooth as butter.

Yeah I noticed that too. Even between my 5k mile Extra S fluid changes I noticed marked drop off of shift smoothness but fresh stuff would feel great.....for another 5k-ish miles

.

Kevin Allen · **Joined:** Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:42 pm **Posts:** 3479

I change mine about every 15k miles. At that point, it's just a noticeable improvement, nothing drastic.

Zach Hill · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 10:59 am

Kevin Allen wrote:

Is there anything special you need to do, or just bleed it like brakes? The Subarus are sometimes a pita to bleed, if you get air in the slave cylinder (not that I plan to do that with the S2000). I remember seeing the clutch slave on the left side of the trans when I changed the trans fluid, but didn't really look that closely at it.

Yeah, don't get air in the lines, just like brakes. So it's a two-person job without a SpeedBleeder installed or some vacuum system. I believe it's an 8mm wrench needed to turn the bleed screw, so make sure you have that as my wrench set only went down to 9mm.

Stephen Westerfield wrote:

I just did the tranny and diff last week and went with the Amsoil MTF and Severe Gear 75W-90. I'm contemplating ditching the Amsoil MTF though as it made it noticeably notchier than whatever was in it (I assume Honda MTF). It doesn't seem to get much better when warm either. I should have trusted my past experience as I didn't like the Amsoil MTF in my Integra either. Pennzoil Synchromesh works so much better in that application. I wish they still made the Synchromesh with friction modifier as that is what I'd try. I guess I'll just go back with the Honda MTF.

As someone who ran Honda OEM fluid for over 3 years in my S2000 and then switched, I highly recommend Redline MTL. :thumbsup:

JohnByers · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:25 am

ok, so what is the serious list of who is going to compete in STR this year? Like say make the minimum required events for season championships?

at what, 7-8 people?

Stephen Westerfield · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:31 am

JohnByers wrote:

ok, so what is the serious list of who is going to compete in STR this year? Like say make the minimum required events for season championships?

at what, 7-8 people?

It sounds bigger than that.

Marcus
Zack
Noah
Carlton
Matt
Jeremy
James
Kevin
Steven
Stephen
Judi
Jason

Who am I missing?

THSCC Forums

STR in 2012

Who is online