THSCC Forums

Since I've opened this thread again, I got another beef with Kraftsman:

ELECTRICS!!!

Their wiring sucks. They're running wire over sharp edges and securing it with ELECTRICIAN'S TAPE. My trailer also exibited really impressive methods of just putting in a length of wire to create two splices instead of one.

I my case, the brake wiring was routed over a couple of sharp edges, and a large loop of extra wire was secured to the front axle with a couple of wraps of electrical tape!!! When the tape became unravelled due to the weather, this loop of wire began draggin' on the pavement with the resulting abrasion eventually rendering my braking system inactive!

Hey, Bud, every hear if TIE-WRAPS

Not real impressed with Kraftsman's attention to detail on a fairly important aspect of their product. BRAKES!!!!

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Brad

In regard to WIRE for trailer or "open racecar" wiring. I recommend Marine grade wiring which is UL tested for Sunlight, water, oil, and gasoline resistance. Boaters World on Glenwood in Raleigh tends to have lots of sizes and colors (for color coding).

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Dick Rasmussen

FS 50 2018 Mustang GT

I am still
Here's the email I sent Kraftsman after laying in the hot sun a couple of weeks ago screwing around with the electrics on my 7-MONTH OLD Kraftsman Trailer:

Gentlemen:
I bought a Kraftsman trailer from you folks in January, 2005. VIN#5E7(XXXXXX).

Everything appeared to be OK for the first few months, then here's what happened:

1.) June, 2005: Wire connection at the plug was loose. Intermittent "E1" error code. Corrected, and installed lug connectors on all plug wires. They are more secure than trying to hold stranded wire beneath a screw since they balance the load under the head of the screw.

2.) August 13, 2005: NO BRAKES! Diagnosed problem: Your sheathed brake wiring had a large loop near the termination at the LH end of the front axle. This loop of excess sheathed wire had been secured to the axle tube with a couple of wraps of ELECTRICAL TAPE. Weathering had allowed the tape to deteriorate and unravel, and the loop of wire then dropped to drag on the highway! The abrasion quickly wore through the ground wire, opening the circuit.

During the repair, I noticed that the connection to the brake magnets was made in an odd way. Two short 6" lengths of wire had been used to connect the brake magnet wires to the trailer wiring harness, despite there being ample harness wire available (Ah! That loop of wire!). This required two splice connections rather than one. Absolutely no reason for this strange approach. Please view attached photo for a look at the workmanship.
I also found the same odd multi-splice arrangement was used for the emergency break-away battery connections at the front of the trailer. Again, no reason to use two splice connections in this application. It just adds another point of susceptibility to corrosion.

Conclusions:
A.) Suggest you cease using electrical tape wrappings to secure chassis wiring, and secure the harness using automotive-grade tie-wraps.
B.) Train your wiring guy to use accepted practices and common sense when hard-wiring the braking system. It's the most important system on the trailer.

I am relating this to you folks, hoping that it will serve to assist you in improving your quality. I know good help is hard to find, but the braking system on your product should merit extra attention to detail and be constructed with care.

Regards,
Brad Mackey

So... A couple of weeks has passed, and I have received no response. It's not like I feel Kraftsman builds a crummy trailer, I'd probably buy another one from them, because their fabrication techniques are acceptable. It's just the principle of the thing. A short response, acknowledging my concern would suffice.

Food for thought for those of you contemplating the purchase of a trailer. You may draw your own conclusions.

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Brad

FWIW, most wiring I've seen on trailers (car, boat, PWC, etc) have piss-poor (eastern NC term ) wiring. Most of it isn't secured at all, no tape, ty-wraps or anything. I'm not at all surprised at the wiring on your trailer.

BTW, as you might have guessed, all the wiring on my tire trailer is inside wire loom and ty-wrapped many times. Wires are generally for function, and should be hidden (read: protected) whenever possible.

I owe you one already Brad, so if you need my assistance, I can come over and help you re-wire the whole thing. Oh and you can ask Wes, as I think he's well satisfied with the wiring I did on his Miata's harness.

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Vincent Keene
'06 Ford Mustang GT (track rat)
'15 Dodge Charger R/T (yeah, it's got a HEMI!)
'07 Ford Fusion SE (205,000 miles and counting)
'98 Chevy Z-24 (retired)
'93 Acura Integra (Team SWB 24HOL Car)

Vincent:
I would expect nothing less than an exemplary, meticulous wiring job on your trailer. Fortunately, I have the deal under control. Soldered, crimped and sealed all connections. Tie-wrapped where it appeared there would be any movement toward an abrading edge, and left just enough slack at the wheels to accomodate full excursions of the suspension.

Still need to address the break-away battery in the same way, but am thinking of adding a solar panel to keep the battery charged. Mauldin pointed out the solar panels on ebay that come over on all VW's to keep the battery charged during the Atlantic Crossing, then are sold for scrap by the importer. Looks like a great project and would obviate the need to periodically recharge that little wet-cell battery mounted on the tongue.

Sound like a plan??? Would need to be quick-connect, I guess.

BTW, last I checked, you don't owe me nuthin'. I'm always happy to accomodate fellow T'Heelers at Mackey's Garage. I LIVE for such opportunities to learn from guys like you who can figure stuff out. !!

Later.

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Brad

For what it's worth, Mike Whitney reported years ago that the Kraftsman wiring sucks (the rest of the trailer is real pretty though).

Scott

I only saw one post metion extra long ramps. Worth doing if you have a low car. For my first trailer I had them extend the ramps an extra 2 feet so the Talon nose did not drag. That was on a trailer with a beaver tail (always get a trailer made this way if its at all high above the ground). I recall getting 6 or 7 ' ramps vs 4 or 5.

Of course no one mentioned Aluminum trailers which are GREAT, but expensive.

Ron

Ron:
The other option is to have the trailer manufacturer use 4" Dropped axles. This obviates the need for longer (heavier) ramps. Kraftsman lowered my trailer 4" for $100. However, when you do that, a removable driver's-side fender(+$100) and a 4"-drop hitch tongue (to compensate for the lowering) are absolutely a required.

The only downside is an occasional dragging of the beaver-tail when pulling into a McDonalds with higher-than normal driveway ramps. But if my Miata, which is lowered about 2-1/2", can drive on with plenty of clearance, it's worth the occasional scrape.

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Brad

I picked up a couple of 4" polyurethane casters and bolted them to the frame at the rear of the trailer to solve that one. Dragging once in a while is no big deal, but I kept destroying the hanging padlocks and putting huge scrapes in my driveway when backing up! The casters work like a charm and are quite heavy duty - even have grease fittings on them.

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Mike Whitney
whit32@gmail.com, 919-454-5445
V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1

I have these bolted to the back corners of my Kraftsman. The way I've attached them, the wheels barely protrude below the "scrape point" on the frame. They're inexpensive, work great, and are such low profile they don't come into play unless really needed.
http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm?skunum=4322&src=SRQB

If you're going to get longer ramps, go aluminum. I bought these this year and they are well worth the price!
http://www.discountramps.com/auto_ramps.htm They are 6 ft long with the "hook" end. Check out the weight!!! And I don't need ramp starters anymore with them.

Phil

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Phil Wehman
Caterham Super 7