Open Trailer Paint Shop - Cheap but Durable?

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Mon Sep 12, 2011 1:00 pm

My wife cannot stand the UGLY condition of the paint on our steel open trailer. I cannot understand why given the multiple layers of faded and/or peeling spray can paint, rust showing, primer where sticky tires have lifted the paint, etc. :oops:

Any recommendations on local shops that would remove the rust and put a good durable gloss black paint job on it without painting the tires and wheels? Also, is it practical to get the underside "derusted" and painted?

This is a 20 year old trailer.

Thanks,

Dick

BretLuter · **Posted:** Mon Sep 12, 2011 8:45 pm

Besides DIY, can't help much with practical experience.

I did see a big sign in front of the MAACO on Atlantic Ave that said "We sandblast and paint ANYTHING".... so that might be worth checking into.

Charlie Guthrie · **Joined:** Thu Aug 28, 2003 8:14 pm **Posts:** 832

If there was ever a vehicle that cried out for a roller paint finish it's a trailer. In addition to roller paint you should consider adding anti-slip grit to the paint finish.
This sounds like such a good idea I may have to paint my rusty trailer....The fenders would still be bent though.
Charlie G

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Wed Sep 14, 2011 8:02 am

Charlie Guthrie wrote:

If there was ever a vehicle that cried out for a roller paint finish it's a trailer. I
Charlie G

I know. Tell Kelly. :oops:

I've used a variety of spray and brush on paint over the years. None holds up to the sun. Would one of the "automotive" grade rattle can or brush/roller applied paints keep their gloss for several years?

The Cary Maaco just guesstimated $1500 for sand blast and paint based on a recent landscape trailer project. I suspect mine would be easier but even so $800 of the cost was the paint.

Of course what I really want is a low profile "clamshell" aluminum enclosed trailer but haven't been able to "justify" the $10,000 it would take to get one built.

http://www.montrosetrailers.com/

jeremy gast · **Posted:** Wed Sep 14, 2011 8:18 am

it is a little bit of a drive but the price is right and cheaper than a paint job!!!

http://www.roadraceautox.com/showthread.php?t=36385

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Wed Sep 14, 2011 10:15 am

Jeremy,

Thanks. I saw that and know the seller (Jim Garry, formerly CMod going to BMod) It is all steel and is probably too heavy for our tow vehicle (which isn't going to change). Also for the weight dual axle would be better I think. Plus it needs derusting and paint a lot more than my current trailer. I don't know why it hasn't sold already however.

jeremy gast · **Posted:** Wed Sep 14, 2011 11:05 am

ya i looked at the pictures a little more after i posted it. How much trailer space do you need? Would a utility trailer work?? there are several on craiglist for sale for less than $1000.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Wed Sep 14, 2011 12:31 pm

jeremy gast wrote:

ya i looked at the pictures a little more after i posted it. How much trailer space do you need? Would a utility trailer work?? there are several on craiglist for sale for less than $1000.

We need a 16 X 7 floor. Due to tow vehicle constraints trailer weight needs to be in the 1500 to 2000 lb range with minimal drag. (we are not in a position to upgrade our Dodge 360 based camper van).

There are lots of choices for "conventional" 16X7 enclosed trailers at reasonable cost . . . if it wasn't for the tow vehicle constraints.

Thanks for the creative thinking!

jeremy gast · **Posted:** Wed Sep 14, 2011 1:14 pm

Gotcha, forgot about the van! I will keep my eyes out some more.

BretLuter · **Posted:** Wed Sep 14, 2011 1:57 pm

Dick- what kind of paint(s) have you used in the past?

Wondering if some sort of tractor/equipment/implement paint would hold up better to the elements?

I know they sell gallons of this stuff at places like Agri-Supply and Tractor Supply. Colors are generally along the lines of "John Deere Green" or "International-Harvester Red", but they have 10-15 different colors IIRC.

I just assume it's better than the normal Rustoleum you'd get at Lowe's or HD, but could be wrong.......

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Wed Sep 14, 2011 2:38 pm

I'm sure cost is a factor here, but like any paint project, the prep is the key. It sounds like in your case it needs to be blasted, re-primed and painted. I would think if you outsourced the blasting the rest could be done by yourself. When the trailer manufacturers paint one I'll be it's just Rustoleum or the like.

As an alternative (if the price isn't too high) getting the actual surface where the car rides sprayed with the bedliner stuff should last forever. It ain't cheap, but that Line-X stuff is pretty tough stuff.

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Wed Sep 14, 2011 8:02 pm

I like the Agri-Supply paint and the bed liner ideas. Prep has been "lacking" for some of the touch ups. :oops:

How about do it yourself bed liner for the runners? Any disadvantages?

I may spring for custom aluminum boxes to replace the steel ones that Grover McNair fabricated many years ago. $$$ but still less than any new trailer. It might be a good opportunity to "rethink" my whole tire rack/storage box setup which has always been less than "optimum" to put it mildly since it was designed to supplement the hatch area of an 88 5.0 Mustang. The camper actually has less "I'm allow to put dirty stuff" storage area.

Then I can strip/sand/blast the other stuff as a "project" now that the race car is READY.

I'm trying hard to avoid the "Beverly Hillbillies" look. :lol:

Dick

Steven Carter · **Posted:** Wed Sep 14, 2011 8:55 pm

RhinoLiner is the best stuff I've used for ant-slip/bedliner. I actually coated the wheel wells and undercarriage of the Z in it prior to paint, and it is exceptionally durable. Rolls or brushes on easily as well.

Not sure how DIY you want to get, but I coated everything on the Z with POR-15 and an external coating, in my case Chassis Black, and it looks great. No rust after 7 years. I also used it on some touch up on a wrought-iron railing and some iron furniture, and it too has not rusted/peeled or faded. BTW, it can be bought and formulated for spray-on in a booth, so you could bring it to a shop, or have them order it for you.

Eastwood has a similar system of products, but I'm not positive about it being sprayable (except that it comes in aerosol cans)

http://www.por15.com/

DickRasmussen · **Posted:** Wed Sep 14, 2011 10:11 pm

Steve,

DIY is what I do for most stuff . . . which is partially why the trailer embarrasses my wife since I've been a little too much DIY with the paint over the years. :oops:

One of the issues is rust spreading from the underside of heavy cross members to the painted exposed sides. Also, the expanded metal mesh on the ramps won't stay rust free. Will POR15 with a protective top coat address those issues?

Thanks!

Donnie Barnes · **Posted:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 8:58 am

Don't know much about their work or prices, but Piedmont Sandblasting in Greensboro can supposedly handle a job like that.

There's also a guy closer that might be able to do it...forget his name, but his number is 336-578-5613. He owns two companies...one is Chem Strip and the other is Advanced Powder Coating. I know they could strip it properly and powdercoat the entire thing, but I wouldn't recommend that. There are paint products that will hold up as good, if not better, now and they are MUCH easier to "repair" if/when it does start to rust again. Powdercoating something like that WILL eventually start to rust again and when it does, well, it sucks to deal with. Both his companies are in the Mebane area (so a little closer). FWIW, he does do some of the best powdercoat work around. Pretty sure a lot of my red wheels are still floating around that he did a long time ago.

--Donnie

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