OK, I know I've been out of circulation in the autocross program a while, but I'm back. I drove the bus to and back from Laurinburg this past weekend. Here's what I know.
1. The A/C
It works...sometimes. Seems as though it works fairly well when the bus is at an event, idling and standing still. However, once underway and at speed, the same settings that keep the timing and scoring folks "less hot" turn it into a heater, literally. Air coming out of the vents in the dash is hotter than ambient.
2. The transmission
This is where I learned the most this weekend. A lot of this I'm also gleaning from owning a diesel Excursion for almost three years, which AFAIK has the same transmission and is programmed at least similarly.
We know that over the course of a trip, the O/D light starts to blink. This is an indication of a fault in the transmission, usually slippage. I managed the entire trip from Laurinburg back to Cary without the thing throwing a light. Here's how.
a. If you're in a 55mph zone or lower, push the button on the end of the shift lever to turn off overdrive altogether. Deal with the noise and the reduced fuel mileage. This keeps it from hunting between gears, which is the problem.
And it's best to make sure you're unloaded (as in, coasting downhill) when you make the decision to throw it from 4th to 3rd. It works less hard this way and is less likely to slip (and throw a light).
b. If you're in a 65mph zone, keep it above 65mph, even if this requires wide open throttle. If inclines are small, full throttle will get you up them in 4th gear, as the torque converter is locked. Also, 65+mph is a speed such that the computer won't *allow* a downshift - not enough RPMs available on the motor.
c. If you're in the above mentioned 65mph zone and facing a hill where the thing starts to decelerate, here's what you do. You let it decelerate, and as you do so, you ease off the throttle. The decision to shift from 4 to 3 is based on load on the vehicle. If you've got the thing matted and you're still decelerating, once you decelerate to the point that 3rd gear is available, it will unlock the torque converter (this is where the slippage is occurring IMO) and downshift to 3rd. By backing off the throttle as you climb this hill, you can "nurse" 4th gear up the hill to the crest, keeping the torque converter locked, and once you crest it, hammer back down...gently.
d. The light comes on when you don't do what I'm describing above, like setting the cruise at 65 and just letting the trans do the work. Not always, but usually, the minute the trans decides it needs to go from 4 to 3 going up a hill, and (it has to do this) unlocks the torque converter, that's when it slips and throws a light. I'm convinced.
I'm reading back through this and I'm not sure it makes a lot of sense. Mike and I discussed it at length last night. It's hard to articulate the transmission stuff without driving it.
Anyway, there's a couple things I think we should do to it.
1. Open up the exhaust. It'll make more power this way for sure. I was stunned to look at the little pea shooter coming out the back of that thing.
2. Fix the A/C. The timing guys are pretty much fine. The poor bastard who has to drive it to Laurinburg in June, not so much.
3. Upgrade the headlights somehow. I didn't look, but if they're the type that take replacement bulbs (as opposed to replacing the whole thing), some Silverstars would make a welcome difference.
4. Get rid of the mirror that shows you what's 12 inches in front of the vehicle. Wholly unnecessary, and distracting when you're driving it at night. You get a great view of...the headlight.
5. If we eventually decide to put a new trans in it, we should supplant that with a shift kit of some sort. It'll make the drive experience a little harsh, but will minimize slippage. I think it increases line pressure.
That's it...discuss
Login
Register
FAQ
Search
