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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 1:47 am 
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I hate working the course at autox and I must tell you about it, often.

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MikeWhitney wrote:

400-500w would be good. The only things we regularly run from it is the laptop and printer. Laptop won't be more than 100w. (edit) Printers I found online take no more than 50w when printing.

Just try to get a good ones, name brand (ie vector / coleman / others). We don't want to have to keep replacing these every 2 years.

Maybe we should go for bigger ones to keep the usage low. I think the ones in there are 300 or 400w now.


If you haven't got one yet. Pep Boys on Glenwood has the Vector units in stock. 60w - 800w ones were on the shelf. 400w was $60 I believe. At that price you could get 2. And cycle them every other event so you always have a known good hot spare.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 2:03 am 
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Graham Jagger wrote:
MikeWhitney wrote:

400-500w would be good. The only things we regularly run from it is the laptop and printer. Laptop won't be more than 100w. (edit) Printers I found online take no more than 50w when printing.

Just try to get a good ones, name brand (ie vector / coleman / others). We don't want to have to keep replacing these every 2 years.

Maybe we should go for bigger ones to keep the usage low. I think the ones in there are 300 or 400w now.


If you haven't got one yet. Pep Boys on Glenwood has the Vector units in stock. 60w - 800w ones were on the shelf. 400w was $60 I believe. At that price you could get 2. And cycle them every other event so you always have a known good hot spare.


Dustin picked up 2 new Vector 400W inverters which were exact replacements for the ones we had installed 2 years ago. The new ones are significantly quieter. I guess these things basically have a 2 year life under our operating conditions. I suspect we have a "heavy use" application since they basically run for 7+ hrs two times a month.

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whit32@gmail.com, 919-454-5445
V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 10:23 am 
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(that's pronouced 'bah-kah)
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Location: Durham
Mike,
what remains to be done on the bus??

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 12:48 pm 
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Here's my new draft list. Need to go check the notes from yesterday to see if there is anything else.

Hey - if there is anyone who wants to come help today, please call me! I will be doing some work on it and returning it later this afternoon. 387-4949 if you can come by to help w/ some cleaning or other stuff.

TO DO - MINOR - NEEDS OWNERS
----------------------------
Fix "broken" vinyl holes / seal with clear tape?
Replace windshield wipers + Rain-x windshield
Bus interior organization / labeling / go through all drawers
Bus wash
Bus floor mop / deep clean

TO DO - MAJOR - NEEEDS OWNERS
-----------------------------
Bus exterior cleanse? wax?
- (What products might help the gelcoat?)

Bus mechanical maintenance
- Oil change?, Fuel Filter, Air filter?, Chassis Lube?
- Mechanical inspection.
- Nothing on hand. Can delegate to Melton.
- Suspect possible trans leak / check

Low-voltage flashing warning light
- Want to have configurable low-voltage warning light.
- Need parts and plan.
- Also with big bright sign next to light that says
- "If this light is on turn key backwards"

Carpet under the driver's feet gets wet when it rains
- or when the bus windshield is sprayed with a hose.
- not sure exactly where it's coming from,
- but it's not coming from the area behind the driver's seat.

State inspection
- Behind by 11 months (sorry). Wait until Feb

Broken passenger side convex mirror replaced
- Need part

PA - FRS to PA instructon label?

SHOPPING LIST
-------------
- Order new cones
- Buy new FRS Radios
- Oil Dry

TO DO - HAVE OWNERS
-------------------
PA - Repair FM transmitter
- Chris Suich

Surface mount voltage displays (2)
- Chris Suich / Mike Whitney

Send all timing equipment to JACircuits ASAP for refresh/repair?
Chuck Nelson shipping, Mike W contacting JAC
- Call JAC and discuss options. Send ASAP.
- Order 2 new laser heads
- new connectors on JAC boxes
- new wiring and connectors on all laser heads

FRS headsets for T&S
??Todd Breakey??
- Need to figure out what to get, order, test, find storage, do training.

Repair trailer end cap/skirt + Install caster wheels
Chuck Nelson
- Pop rivet underneath
- to avoid future damage.

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Mike Whitney
whit32@gmail.com, 919-454-5445
V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1


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 Post subject: chest muscles
PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:01 pm 
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Flipper
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Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2003 10:24 pm
Posts: 2433
Location: purveyor of the ridiculous
wow, my chest muscles are so sore from the scrubbing yesterday.. i am nto saying im really hurting, cause i know some people did massive amounts of work.. and to them i certainly take my hat off to them.. i really do..
although i am certainly quite sore, those are not muscles that i typically use on a daily basis.. anyway, eventually that old bus will be ready to go.. you guys certainly have a large amount of abilitees that i dont have..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:44 pm 
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Location: Probably somewhere near an autocross.
Here's a few shots of bus day 1/13/07.
Image

I never knew the trailer held soooo much stuff. That doesn't even include the cones, etc that were on the other side of the bus.

Image

We scrubbed and we scrubbed.

Image

While the guys repaired the exhaust and soft floor.

Image

Thanks to all who came. If you didn't come this time, please plan to come to the next bus day. You might be surprised what a help you'll be.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 11:31 pm 
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I have been looking around on the web for the low voltage warning circuits.
It looks like the best solution would be to return the two inverters and instead buy Xantrex RV inverters, they have built in low voltage warning and cutoffs
If you keep the inverters, I would use this, http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-pro ... AT-XL.html, which has a fixed alarm point

Or this, http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-pro ... AT-XL.html, which has adjustable set points

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 1:57 am 
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ChuckNelson wrote:
I have been looking around on the web for the low voltage warning circuits.
It looks like the best solution would be to return the two inverters and instead buy Xantrex RV inverters, they have built in low voltage warning and cutoffs
If you keep the inverters, I would use this, http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-pro ... AT-XL.html, which has a fixed alarm point

Or this, http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-pro ... AT-XL.html, which has adjustable set points


Hey Chuck - that second link is the same as the first. Can you repost the link for the adjustable setpoint one? Thanks.

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Mike Whitney
whit32@gmail.com, 919-454-5445
V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 9:04 am 
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Location: lost but making good time
I think a separate voltage alarm would be a better idea, unless the alarm on those Xantrex inverters works when the inverters are turned off. Usually/often a power inverter is only switched on when the printer needs to be run, and then off after the print.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 1:04 pm 
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Location: Raleigh NC
ooops. Try this one: http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-pro ... inder.html

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 1:32 pm 
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Location: NW Raleigh
ChuckNelson wrote:


Nice find - I had seen the fixed voltage one, but not the adjustable. This one could be worth a shot.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 4:28 pm 
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The real trick would be to pop it open and relay the alarm to a trailer brake light and turn signal blinker.

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Success is not an option.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 2:09 am 
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FYI - Someone left two combination wrenches here - I think 1/2" and 9/16". Chris S are these yours?

Here's what I did today and Sunday:
- quick interior cleaning & wipedown
- mopped the floors
- Replaced windshield wipers
- Put on the 01/2008 tag stickers
- removed the sway control completely and put it in the "towing" box
- Cleaned up a few more trailer boxes including the oily one
- Cleaned out the filing cabinet, threw away a bunch of irrelevant stuff
- Consolidated all timing equip spares in a box in the bottom drawer
- Got rid of the "PA parts" box in the trailer which was full of useless stuff
- All spare hardware and hard parts are in the "Bus parts" box now
- Adjusted the brake controller (it's set at 10 out of 12 max)
- Touched up the rusty spots on the hitch

Bus is back at John Perry's place on Luther Rd. Still some to-dos left but I'll get them on a list.

Since there are 2 weeks to go until the next event, should we get it over to Randy's shop for the routine maintenance?

Who's got 7.3l Ford experience who could recommend what to have done? Anyone able to get the bus to Randy's shop out east?

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Mike Whitney
whit32@gmail.com, 919-454-5445
V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 9:18 am 
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Location: Raleigh, NC
MikeWhitney wrote:
Since there are 2 weeks to go until the next event, should we get it over to Randy's shop for the routine maintenance?

Who's got 7.3l Ford experience who could recommend what to have done? Anyone able to get the bus to Randy's shop out east?


I could either drive the bus or follow someone and pick them up if there is another volunteer one night this week maybe.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:14 am 
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Stephen Westerfield wrote:
MikeWhitney wrote:
Since there are 2 weeks to go until the next event, should we get it over to Randy's shop for the routine maintenance?

Who's got 7.3l Ford experience who could recommend what to have done? Anyone able to get the bus to Randy's shop out east?


I could either drive the bus or follow someone and pick them up if there is another volunteer one night this week maybe.


can't speak for 7.3l but i would reccomend fuel filter change. oil change every 5k or so.


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