Bus Day 2006 (Maintenance / wish list)

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Tue May 02, 2006 2:38 pm

Mike, I deleted your post by accident about the bus day so I started a new thread. This is stuff I know about that I think needs to be addressed, in no particular order:

1. Oil / Filter change
2. Fuel filter change
3. NC Inspection (it's months past due)
4. Exhaust pipe (permanent fix...weld)
5. Upgraded brake controller (per Scott's suggestion)
6. High-idle switch (for day-of event run time power issues)
7. Really annoying rattle in overhead bin. (PA board I think)
8. 12V fans installed (you bought these last year right?)
9. Broken passenger side convex mirror replaced
10. Front (kid-crossing?) mirror removed. We don't need it.
11. Relocate "Wait to start" light to a more highly visible location.
12. Install a radio with two decent speakers? (Would be nice for the driver)
13. Hardwire antenna on the roof for the wireless timer's TX?
14. Install a CB radio for road trip communication. (I have one to donate)
15. Install a DRL module to improve safety.
16. Hardwire external jacks for the timer cable I/O. (Like we had on the old bus)

MikeWhitney · **Joined:** Wed Aug 20, 2003 9:15 pm **Posts:** 4724

Vincent - excellent list. Let me just add a few comments about some of these for everyone's knowledge:

5. Upgraded brake controller (per Scott's suggestion)

Agreed, also need to find a better mount position where it isn't as likely to be bumped.

8. 12V fans installed (you bought these last year right?)

Yep, got them here at my house

10. Front (kid-crossing?) mirror removed. We don't need it.

It's actually not for kid crossing -- it's to see the front bumper for parking really, really close to things. If it's not in the way I'd say leave it.

11. Relocate "Wait to start" light to a more highly visible location.

Hmmm. Might be tough. Has this been a problem? We could put the label/sign in a more prominent position instead...

13. Hardwire antenna on the roof for the wireless timer's TX?

FYI past testing showed that the transmitter _really_ didn't like to have a cable attached. Now I had just used an off-the-shelf BNC cable, so it could be an impedance mismatch problem. I never experimented with the receiver. Will need to investigate, probably call the company. I'll put it on my list to try next week. Also will want to experiment with watching the signal strength.

15. Install a DRL module to improve safety.

What's that?

16. Hardwire external jacks for the timer cable I/O. (Like we had on the old bus)

Past experience shows that this isn't a good idea. The external sockets wear and weather over time and were the source of a lot of timer problems with the old bus back in 2001 timeframe. They might work fine for a year or so but after that look out. Cables through the window while messy is a little more reliable. But we could consider weatherproof connectors or some kind of a passthrough.

One other item off the top of my head... more will come later I'm sure:

- Replace ALL XLR connectors on older cables

Vincent once I get a complete list I'll take over and get volunteers to take on some of these items. Unless you want to organize it of course!

Wes Eargle · **Joined:** Mon Oct 27, 2003 9:47 am **Posts:** 3683

DRL= Daytime Running Lights

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Tue May 02, 2006 4:43 pm

MikeWhitney wrote:

11. Relocate "Wait to start" light to a more highly visible location.

Hmmm. Might be tough. Has this been a problem? We could put the label/sign in a more prominent position instead...

I'm not talking about "moving it" I'm talking about adding a wire to the existing circuit, routed to an LED (think shift light) and having a label/sign that reads "Turn ignition to on, wait for light to go off, then start". Lot's of people have missed the light. You have a diesel, and I'm familiar so we know the deal. Others may or may not.

MikeWhitney wrote:

15. Install a DRL module to improve safety.

What's that?

Like Wes said "Daytime Running Lights". They are an excellent safety item on an NA Miata! Keeps the front amber turn signals illuminated when the engine is running to make you more visible on the highway. You'll always notice a C6 coming at you waaaay before you can see it's a Vette because of them. Cost...about $40.

MikeWhitney wrote:

16. Hardwire external jacks for the timer cable I/O. (Like we had on the old bus)

Past experience shows that this isn't a good idea. The external sockets wear and weather over time and were the source of a lot of timer problems with the old bus back in 2001 timeframe. They might work fine for a year or so but after that look out. Cables through the window while messy is a little more reliable. But we could consider weatherproof connectors or some kind of a passthrough.
One other item off the top of my head... more will come later I'm sure:

I was thinking non-exposed jacks, behind a weather tight receptacle outlet cover. You don't think that would work?

MikeWhitney wrote:

Vincent once I get a complete list I'll take over and get volunteers to take on some of these items. Unless you want to organize it of course!

No thanks. I've got plenty of work to do being AXVP and the official trophy guy for all three THSCC programs!

Jason Mauldin · **Posted:** Tue May 02, 2006 4:47 pm

Vincent Keene wrote:

MikeWhitney wrote:

15. Install a DRL module to improve safety.

What's that?

Like Wes said "Daytime Running Lights". They are an excellent safety item on an NA Miata! Keeps the front amber turn signals illuminated when the engine is running to make you more visible on the highway. You'll always notice a C6 coming at you waaaay before you can see it's a Vette because of them. Cost...about $40.

I really don't see the point in this. This rig isn't on the road very often and it's fairly visible as is. Plus you are introducing an additional drain on the electrical system, that we are already having issues with.

CosbyWood · **Posted:** Tue May 02, 2006 5:57 pm

Vincent Keene wrote:

MikeWhitney wrote:

16. Hardwire external jacks for the timer cable I/O. (Like we had on the old bus)

Past experience shows that this isn't a good idea. The external sockets wear and weather over time and were the source of a lot of timer problems with the old bus back in 2001 timeframe. They might work fine for a year or so but after that look out. Cables through the window while messy is a little more reliable. But we could consider weatherproof connectors or some kind of a passthrough.
One other item off the top of my head... more will come later I'm sure:

I was thinking non-exposed jacks, behind a weather tight receptacle outlet cover. You don't think that would work?

We've already got the beginnings of such a place and it's a natural piece of the bus. There's a locked outside box that should be weather-proofed already and if it isn't we can do it rather easily, I suspect. We can run the cables straight through the floor since it's right underneath where the laptop and equipment usually sit. There may be some other problem to using that which I'm not seeing, but that was what I thought it was going to be used for just never said anything about it. :oops:

BretLuter · **Posted:** Tue May 02, 2006 7:31 pm

Depending on exactly what exhaust part(s) needs to be welded, and how accessible it is to my welder- I would be glad to take care of it while the bus is here at our place for the upcoming RallyX.

Anything else that needs to be welded while I'm at it??????/

Bret.

AndersGreen · **Posted:** Tue May 02, 2006 11:16 pm

Vincent Keene wrote:

5. Upgraded brake controller (per Scott's suggestion)

I upgraded to a Tekonsha Prodigy and it's pretty sweet. Built in electronic inertial sensors augment your settings, and it's 3d so it doesn't depend on being perfectly horizontal to work.

http://www.tekonsha.com/prodig.html

I feel like it's the V1 of brake controllers.

Anders

Adam Ligon · **Posted:** Tue May 02, 2006 11:22 pm

Jason Mauldin wrote:

Vincent Keene wrote:

MikeWhitney wrote:

15. Install a DRL module to improve safety.

What's that?

Like Wes said "Daytime Running Lights". They are an excellent safety item on an NA Miata! Keeps the front amber turn signals illuminated when the engine is running to make you more visible on the highway. You'll always notice a C6 coming at you waaaay before you can see it's a Vette because of them. Cost...about $40.

I really don't see the point in this. This rig isn't on the road very oftenand it's fairly visible as is. Plus you are introducing an additional drain on the electrical system, that we are already having issues with.

If someone doesn;t see the giant behmoth that is the van/bus unless some pitiful little bulbs are on.............

I think you get my point.

-->Adam = not a fan of DRL's on cars
-->Nor are most people who do/have ridden motorclcles

Bernie Baake · **Posted:** Wed May 03, 2006 1:33 am

MikeWhitney wrote:

13. Hardwire antenna on the roof for the wireless timer's TX?

FYI past testing showed that the transmitter _really_ didn't like to have a cable attached. Now I had just used an off-the-shelf BNC cable, so it could be an impedance mismatch problem. I never experimented with the receiver. Will need to investigate, probably call the company. I'll put it on my list to try next week. Also will want to experiment with watching the signal strength.

I may still have access to an in line watt meter. if you'd like to see how much power your losing by adding cable to the antenna system. If you're intrested tell me what freq the system operates on, and I'll see if my source has those slugs for the meter. Adding any cable to the transmit or receive will cause degradation. Its just a matter of how much are you willing to live with.

Scott Johnson · **Posted:** Wed May 03, 2006 6:59 am

Adam Ligon wrote:

-->Adam = not a fan of DRL's on cars
-->Nor are most people who do/have ridden motorclcles

[highjack]Would these be the same a-hole motorcycle riders that run with their head light(s) aimed in my eyes, often with a high beam illuminated?

If so, maybe they need to wise up themselves. The first thing I think when I'm being blinded by oncoming traffic is to punt them, it's that much easier to punt a motorcycle. [/highjack]

Vincent Keene · **Posted:** Wed May 03, 2006 8:30 am

BretLuter wrote:

Depending on exactly what exhaust part(s) needs to be welded, and how accessible it is to my welder- I would be glad to take care of it while the bus is here at our place for the upcoming RallyX.

Bret.

Bret, the joint that needs to be welded is easily accessible. It's the slip joint right before the coat hanger I added for support. That joint needs to welded and then move the existing exhaust clamp backward to re-connect it to the existing exhaust hanger.

If you could do this that would be great! Thanks!

MikeWhitney · **Joined:** Wed Aug 20, 2003 9:15 pm **Posts:** 4724

scottjohnson wrote:

Adam Ligon wrote:

-->Adam = not a fan of DRL's on cars
-->Nor are most people who do/have ridden motorclcles

[highjack]Would these be the same a-hole motorcycle riders that run with their head light(s) aimed in my eyes, often with a high beam illuminated?

If so, maybe they need to wise up themselves. The first thing I think when I'm being blinded by oncoming traffic is to punt them, it's that much easier to punt a motorcycle. [/highjack]

Obviously you haven't spent a lot of time riding. I quite often run high beams or flash my high beams when approaching intersections. I would run a fricken flashing purple light and a siren if it was legal. You have no idea how bad it is out there.

If I'm blinding you I apologize. You're not the problem -- "they" are, and anything I can do to get "their" attention could save my life.

Adam Ligon · **Posted:** Wed May 03, 2006 10:25 am

scottjohnson wrote:

Adam Ligon wrote:

-->Adam = not a fan of DRL's on cars
-->Nor are most people who do/have ridden motorclcles

[highjack]Would these be the same a-hole motorcycle riders that run with their head light(s) aimed in my eyes, often with a high beam illuminated?

If so, maybe they need to wise up themselves. The first thing I think when I'm being blinded by oncoming traffic is to punt them, it's that much easier to punt a motorcycle. [/highjack]

And if you think back to the days before DRL's on cars did you see that kind of thing much from motorcycles?

You probably didn't. Because it used to be bikes were the only thing on the road with headlights on all the time. Which made them a little different and there fore stand out. Now that most cars have DRL's "people" have now managed to tune those out too. Makeing life worse for riders, which is why many now run hi beams or flashing headlgihts.

George Bright · **Posted:** Wed May 03, 2006 4:25 pm

MikeWhitney wrote:

15. Install a DRL module to improve safety.

What's that?

It's a GM thing.

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