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 Post subject: Pre-school
PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:17 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 11, 2004 9:24 am
Posts: 48
Location: Pittsboro, NC
I thought that I would kick of the rally-cross school spirit early and offer some things to think about. I believe that there are two things to learn here: first you need to learn what you want the car to do, and the second you need to learn how to make the car do it. So: first visualize how the car should behave, and then train your reflexes to generate that behavior…

But… I don’t believe that there is a right way to rally-cross. Every car and driver is different; you have to figure out what works for you and your car.

These are a few of _my_ ideas that seem to work, but consider them only as concepts. They might not work for you… (And remember that these are based on front wheel drive experience.)

Be smooth: you have to work the gas and brake constantly, but try to make small adjustments and not surge on-off.

Hit your marks: figure out what line you want to follow, and work hard to follow it. It is almost always better to slow down a fraction early, hit your mark, and then:

Carry speed: try not to over-brake because it is often difficult to get accelerated again.

Rotate, don’t steer: In order to carry speed you have to keep the car moving the direction that you want it to go. Steering is one way to cause the car to rotate, but it is dependent on traction. You can also rotate the car with brakes, left-foot braking, or plain-old weight transfer physics. Try not to rely only on the steering wheel to rotate the car.

There is another benefit: you will generally get the best traction with the tire flat on the ground. When you turn the front wheels, you get camber change that tips the tire over. You also twist the outer CV joint, and when you are pounding up and down under max throttle, it is best to keep the CV straight as possible to protect it. So if you can keep the front wheels pointed fairly straight and rotate the car, you should get the best traction and the least stress on the car. (and probably also reduce the odds of de-beading a tire.)

Of course you still have to steer, especially at low speed. But the faster you go, the smaller the steering wheel angles ought to be.

Center of mass: keep track of where the car is actually going, not where it is pointed. This was especially true in the mud at the last rally-x. The car was often rapidly swinging through angles that didn’t feel right, but the car was still sliding in the proper direction. Don’t fret, you are still moving in the right direction, just keep working to get the nose pointed around toward the next corner. Don’t panic, and don’t nail the brakes.

Left-foot braking: left-foot braking is always controversial. It is not required, but I find it to be helpful. Left-felt braking is a great way to rotate the car because it basically allows you shift the brake bias in the car to the rear when you wish to, and therefore “slide” the rear alittle bit.

But I think that there is another reason for left-foot braking: instant torque control. The brakes can directly adjust the torque reaching the tires. The throttle pedal is an in-direct control. The throttle pedal moves the throttle plate, which alters the amount of air reaching the engine, which is measured and then used to alter the amount of fuel available, which then changes the torque at the crank and transmission, which passes through the gears and CV joints after the lash (slop) is taken up, and the entire drivetrain moves on its flexible mounts until it stabilizes at the new torque setting. This is a lot of events which have to occur before the torque at the tires actually changes. It may only take a fraction of second for all this stuff to stabilize, but there is a lag between throttle pedal movement and torque change. And when you are trying to balance the car on the hairy edge, this continual time lag doesn’t help. So you can use light application of the brakes to very quickly modulate the torque at the tires. (and keep the engine pulling happily.)

Left-foot braking is tricky, and requires lots of practice, and just flat doesn’t work for some people. But, just think about it…

Here is some additional reading for you:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rallying#R ... techniques

Go to “Rally Driving Techniques” and read the sections for:

- Scandinavian Flick
- Left-foot braking

And then watch the compilation of old videos that Simon just posted. Watching Blomqvist in a Saab 96 can teach you everything you need to know about driving front wheel drive. And marvel at the guys driving the Lancia Stratos. Those guys had balls so big you could see them from outer space. Unbelieveable…

Ready?

Discuss...

:D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 7:30 pm 
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Captain Caution !
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Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2003 7:26 pm
Posts: 603
Location: Raleigh
Left Foot Braking (LFB) is a technique I began to use to great effect part way through last year's rally season.

But don't try to use it at a rallyx or rally until you've trained your left foot. If you want to try it out at a rallyx then start LFB right now in your street car. Take every opportunity (ie every time you need to brake unless you have a gear to change) to use that left foot. The first few times make sure that there's no one behind you since your untrained foot will likely stop you in a hurry. It'll be weird at first but stick with it.

In the (formerly) underpowered rally Focus I found it a great way to settle the car and increase grip on a fast bend. It takes surprisingly little pressure (and little impact on speed) to get the front wheels biting more and enabled me to carry more speed through the turn. Also I've begun to bring LFB to bear when I find or (better still) anticipate understeer as it can lift the back end enough to break traction and help to rotate.

It's also fun.

Simon

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 9:58 pm 
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Tadpole Lover

Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:42 pm
Posts: 3479
I never left foot brake when rallycrossing.

But if I had one of those inferior fwd cars, I'd make sure the handbrake was always in excellent shape. (I'm being serious)


The main thing I think most of the people who rallyx with us need to learn is this:
TURN EARLY & LIFT OR TAP THE BRAKE TO POINT THE CAR - DON'T JUST TURN THE STEERING WHEEL. AND IF YOU TURN TOO LATE, SLOOOW DOWWWN.

Forget about street driving, autox, track, or whatever your mind is apparently stuck on when you're out there. You're on dirt. Deal with it. If you don't turn the car early enough, no amount of cranking on the steering wheel is going to make it turn, especially when the tires are spinning at wide open throttle. :P

If you're passing the apex of the turn, and you're not unwinding the steering wheel & easing into the throttle, you're screwed. :lol:

Incorrect:

Image

Image

Image

Correct:

Image

Image

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 10:57 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 20, 2003 11:05 pm
Posts: 1895
Location: lost but making good time
Here's some pretty good discussion from 2 years ago...

BTW, the photo page mentioned down in the thread is now located here.

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Carl Fisher

Be Cool to the Pizza Dude:
http://www.npr.org/templates/story/stor ... Id=4651531


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 12:49 am 
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Got Powah?
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Joined: Wed Aug 20, 2003 9:15 pm
Posts: 4724
Best advice here, especially for those of us who are experienced and are looking for that one thing to change IMO:

EricAdams wrote:
Rotate, don’t steer: In order to carry speed you have to keep the car moving the direction that you want it to go. Steering is one way to cause the car to rotate, but it is dependent on traction. You can also rotate the car with brakes, left-foot braking, or plain-old weight transfer physics. Try not to rely only on the steering wheel to rotate the car.


Kevin Allen wrote:
LIFT OR TAP THE BRAKE TO POINT THE CAR - DON'T JUST TURN THE STEERING WHEEL.


My "epiphany" from last year was exactly that -- don't pitch the car to change direction. Hold the steering input and simply stab the brake. Left foot, right foot, don't matter. Just touch the brake and the car starts the turn. It's amazing when you really learn to control it.

Now for you novices out there, concentrate on having fun and being safe! And like Kevin says TURN EARLY!

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V10, V8, V8t, I6, I6, V6, F4t, I4, I4, I4, I4, I2, 1, 1


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 9:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 9:21 pm
Posts: 587
Location: Apex, NC
Eric,
Nice write-up. Certainly some valuable concepts there to use as basics to drive by (or should I say with).

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Chris Suich
Apex, NC
AutoX 2012 Nissan Leaf (Quietly changing the world)
AutoX 2003 Mini Cooper S (on sabbatical)
RallyX 1993 Nissan Sentra - "Le Tigre"
FunX 1970 Camaro LT1 ('95)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 6:19 pm 
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The Giver
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Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 8:45 am
Posts: 4566
Location: Bashing BMWs!
Kevin Allen wrote:
IIncorrect:

Image

Image

Image



Like you ccouldn't find a pic of me doing it correctly? :roll: Yep, I suck.

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'06 Ford Mustang GT (track rat)
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 8:27 am 
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Tadpole Lover

Joined: Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:42 pm
Posts: 3479
It's good that you can admit it. :D


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